New Mahogany Hall table

jacko9

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Joined
Apr 21, 2010
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I just finished this mahogany hall table using my Festool Domino Joiner and my new ETS sander.  This table is 33 inches high, 14 inches deep and 49 inches long.  I finished the table with shellac, minwax wipe on poly and paste wax.
 
Alex said:
Elegant design.
Thanks Alec, the design is in the American Shaker style.  My wife wanted a table for our entry and being the "perfect customer" it had to be; not too small, not too big, not too short and not too tall and oh by the way don't have it interfere with her plants!  [unsure] She loves it!
 
jack o  nice work,  it is not easy to make furniture like that and you did a nice job.. takes patients and of course ....... festools !
 
Nice job, funny to me tho .I didnt think anyone had land phone lines anymore [eek]
 
unityroad said:
Nice job, funny to me tho .I didnt think anyone had land phone lines anymore [eek]
[big grin] My wife refuses to give up her land line, my small cell phone was behind the answering machine!
 
Hey people, my wife would like a mahogany mirror to mount on the wall over this hall table, anybody have a design that might work in this situation?

The original design that I thought I might copy seems to be a bit large for a 8' high wall, see photo attached.  My wife likes this design however, I think that the original designer did this on a 14' high (or higher) wall in a very large entry.

Thanks,

Jack
 
Why not scale it down so it fits in the space?  Maybe change the proportions so it is more horizontal as opposed to square-ish as pictured. 

You could also make the pegs for the frame out of a contrasting wood, then to tie the pieces together, make a drawer pull out of the same wood. 

The mirror you posted has a slight curve which mimics the apron of the table, yours is flat.  I think your mirror would lend it self to details with a little less flourish: less Greene and Green, more rectilinear. 

Hopes that sparks some ideas...

good luck!

 
Vindingo said:
Why not scale it down so it fits in the space?  Maybe change the proportions so it is more horizontal as opposed to square-ish as pictured. 

You could also make the pegs for the frame out of a contrasting wood, then to tie the pieces together, make a drawer pull out of the same wood.   

The mirror you posted has a slight curve which mimics the apron of the table, yours is flat.  I think your mirror would lend it self to details with a little less flourish: less Greene and Green, more rectilinear. 

Hopes that sparks some ideas...

good luck!

Yes,  I think your observation is right on.  I just did a scale model of what your talking about and just finished bandsawing some rough 8/4 mahogany.  I'm thinking about 26" high by 38" wide overall, just need to work out a few details but, I have an idea now.

Thanks for the insight,

Jack
 
Vindingo said:
Why not scale it down so it fits in the space?  Maybe change the proportions so it is more horizontal as opposed to square-ish as pictured.  

You could also make the pegs for the frame out of a contrasting wood, then to tie the pieces together, make a drawer pull out of the same wood.  

The mirror you posted has a slight curve which mimics the apron of the table, yours is flat.  I think your mirror would lend it self to details with a little less flourish: less Greene and Green, more rectilinear.  

Hopes that sparks some ideas...

good luck!

Vinny,

I took your advise and did a little scaling on the matching mirror.  I'll try to get some better pictures tomorrow when I get some better light.

I did use my Domino joiner to cut the 10mm through mortises with Paul's technique for a wider mortise.

Jack

 
Nice work Jack - like the proportions on the mirror.  Can you show some close-up photos of the corner joints on it?  Is the wood mahogany?

neil
 
neilc said:
Nice work Jack - like the proportions on the mirror.  Can you show some close-up photos of the corner joints on it?  Is the wood mahogany?

neil

Neil, The mirror is made with Honduras Mahogany (the same as the table).  I used my domino joiner to cut 10mm through mortise and tenon joints.  After cutting the joints I used a hand scraper to relieve the otter portions of the through tenons to allow glue clearance.  I'll post better pictures tomorrow.
 
Looks good, I'd love to see some more detailed photos. 

So did you finish the wood on the inside of the rabbet for the mirror? 

I did a painted mirror frame once, and didn't paint in the rabbet.  Stupid me didn't realize you could actually see inside the frame because of the mirror.  As I took it apart to repaint the frame, I broke the mirror.  A mistake I shall never make again, and now I still have 3 more years of bad luck coming to me. 
 
Vindingo said:
Looks good, I'd love to see some more detailed photos.  

So did you finish the wood on the inside of the rabbet for the mirror?  

I did a painted mirror frame once, and didn't paint in the rabbet.  Stupid me didn't realize you could actually see inside the frame because of the mirror.  As I took it apart to repaint the frame, I broke the mirror.  A mistake I shall never make again, and now I still have 3 more years of bad luck coming to me.  

I made the same mistake once.... Always finish the the mirror rabbets or you will regret it. They reflect in the mirror and it is pretty obvious.

BTW, Jack, that turned out really nice!

Tom
 
Vindingo said:
Looks good, I'd love to see some more detailed photos. 

So did you finish the wood on the inside of the rabbet for the mirror? 

I did a painted mirror frame once, and didn't paint in the rabbet.  Stupid me didn't realize you could actually see inside the frame because of the mirror.  As I took it apart to repaint the frame, I broke the mirror.  A mistake I shall never make again, and now I still have 3 more years of bad luck coming to me. 

I made 2 side-by-side mirrors and made that mistake.  grrr  Never again! (I hope!)

Beautiful table and mirror; nice job on scaling the proportions down.  That whole entryway area looks really nice.
 
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