New member needs some product advice

[Cheese]

1. Which drill would be perfect for my application?  It looks like Quadrive would have a bit more flexibility but heavier to use and if only used on wood perhaps overkill?  Is the TID  18 impact driver--the way to go with the drill?  I have read some very positive reviews about this new drill.

2. Is the TSC 55 cordless plunge saw one that provides most versatility to rip and crosscut along with the wonderful guide rail?

3. Is a wired Rotex much better than the cordless eccentric sanders? And if so, is the 125 a perfect combination in terms of handsize, weight and sanding power or go for 150?

1. No comment as I own all Milwaukee drills except for a CXS & a C 15.

2. I own both the TS 55 and the TSC 55, I only use the TSC, it's a real nice saw, the TS will be put down the road.

3. Both the RO 125 & RO 150 are two handed sanders. They're not meant to be used continuously for hours on end. I own the RO 125 and it's definitely a niche sander and not something that's ever my first choice to use. General sanding is not its forte.

For furniture making I think you'd be better served with purchasing an ETS EC 125 along with a 150 pad. The ETS EC 125 has the capability of using either sized pad while the ETS EC 150 uses the 150 pad ONLY.  [sad]

 

[SwissEd]

Hi Oliver and all,

Thanks again for your outstanding explanation and forgive me for 'doing my research'-- you all have so much collective knowledge and the best source of 'what works in real life'.  My confusion is now on the cordless drill.  A German dealer was 'pushing' me to consider the PDC 18/4 (percussion drive) since he claimed it offered most flexiblity for my use.  But now having a better grasp of axial and radial (thanks Oliver) I am trying to understand Festools own UK explanation: https://www.festool.co.uk/products/...cordless-percussion-drills/576470---pdc-184-5,24,0-plus-gb#Functions

This is a link to PDC where they illustrate masonry drilling up to 10mm!  Now since I have a Hilti TE5 and a demon in concrete, I am trying to find the most cost effective way to safely and rapidly screw hundreds of screws into wood and hoping that the torque setting feature works and of course drilling into walls (mostly wood and some masonry).  Of course, we all know never rely on something like this and I have no idea if it has a clutch that actually is calibrated.  But in terms of this screwing function and drilling is axial (turn off the percussion feature) or radial best? Sorry to bug you with these questions, but the German dealer who I was speaking with felt that the robustness of the PDC was unparalleled in their drill line and for a small premium well worth it?? Go figure...

I am in Copenhagen now and will visit a large Festool shop tomorrow and 'feel' the tools and see what I can learn.  In the real world what do most professionals use for wood carpentry cordless drills?  Thanks again, Ed

 

[RKA]

Regarding the electronic clutch in these drills, be careful to test it to make sure it's consistent for your needs an expectations.  I've found the mechanical clutch in the CXS is excellent and behaves as one would expect.  But the T18 has an inconsistent behavior I've never understood.  Screw heads will frequently overdrive into the substrate even when it worked just fine on the last screw when I set the clutch.  Adjusting the clutch usually doesn't resolve the issue.  I don't do a lot of this with the bigger drills and when I do it's normally construction type tasks where the inconsistencies don't really matter.  But this seems important for your use case, so I'm mentioning it.  The PDC behavior might be very similar to what I've experienced with the T18. 

 

[SwissEd]

Gents and ladies,
I am embarrassed to keep asking, but if you permit.... I just watched a good FestoolTV video that compared the HK and TS55 and now I am thinking that HK is a) safer for me and b) more appropriate.  One of my larger projects is I have loads of leftover Danish timber (Douglas fir) 35mm thick flooring in lengths approx.m 4-5m and 400mm wide.  I want to rip a number of this boards to make benches by linking a series of approx 4" high boards with same wood spacers and long bolts-- a typical Danish design (Danish wife-- go figure!).  So I will be ripping longer pieces, cross cutting this and want to do it safely using a track.  Watching the energetic Mr. Festool  I now realize (age showing) that the old SkillSaw days and Craftsman 7 1/4" blades are more like HK and NOT TK-- I misunderstood how the plunge mechanism works and frankly I don't think I will need to do much plunging-- and if so, can use the Fein multitool for those odd cuts.  It would be handy to be able angle the blade and this seems possible and the slick rail system offers rapid gang cuts.

Using the HK for above described actions-- would you agree makes more sense for me in terms of getting the job done and safely (less likelihood of kicking!).  I don't want to be limited to always having to use a rail which I gather is how the TK is designed and using the short rail looks like a quick way trim timber for framing accurately.

So I apologize for not having grasped this differentiation earlier and missed the subtly of your collective responses.  Does this make sense--HK cordless + Rails?

Thanks,
Ed     

 

[ear3]

The HKC is somewhat underpowered compared to the corded version, as it only uses a single battery, whereas the TSC is more powerful than it's corded brother due to the double battery.  This won't be apparent for most crosscuts, but once you get into ripping hardwood, the HKC may start to struggle.  You will still be able to pull off the cuts, but some of the bogging down that's likely to occur may greatly impact the quality of the cut.

I understand the desire to have both rail and off-rail capability, but in truth, once i started cutting with the track, I never really saw the need to do anything otherwise.  So in your situation, I would probably get a TSC, and then a cheaper non-Festool cordless circular saw for those situations where I wanted to cut without the track.

 

[SwissEd]

Greetings,

Today I had a great "lesson" at Carl Ras (large tool seller and main Festool agent here in Copenhagen).  After watching plenty of Festool TV, Youtube etc. and ample reviews in the past day, I feel much more informed than my earlier 'scatter brained' questions (sorry).

What I have concluded is that realistically my work longer-term save building a studio/gym will be more in the furniture direction (accurate clean cuts and sanding + joining).  And now having had HKC55 and TSC 55 in my hands, I 'get it'.  I was confused to think realistically I could to everything with one of these and get 95% hit rate.  In reality I think the great majority of my work will be only using track/rail ergo the TS benefits.  Having seen the plunge action in situ I 'get it'.  I sure do like the FSG with the HKC for cross cuts and mitres.  But I think per one of the previous comments, getting something less expensive than an HK for the framing work makes sense BUT investing in the TSC and rails is the way to go for me. No one seems ever to be disappointed with TSC (or HK for that matter).

I also think for me the Rotex 150 solves everything-- yes it is a bit of a beast, 2 hands but wow, what a machine!

I read about 'parallel guides' and wonder how well they work for ripping, if the track(s) are not long enough? But obviously the track in unbeatable, coupled with the clamping system and all the goodies!

Since I don't have space for a 'shop' (live in London) my workspace in limited and the ability to work outside on terrace and garden is a determining factor (and keeping wife happy!).  I saw the multi-function table (semi-stationary)-- pricey but probably like all Festool worth its weight in gold if you need to break-down and assemble each time to work.  Is their any consensus if this table is equally up to it or better options that also work with rails?

I also have seen the light and will start with the DRC drill initially, can always add another one.

The expert their told me there were 'new batteries' on the way with a different kind of lithium (??) that with similar amps but had longer life.  Is that worth waiting for?  To start with 1 charger which charger for someone who doesn't have time pressure to always have a battery charged makes sense?  This is all 'hobby' work for 'adult kids and grandkids'....

I have seen there are a few Midi's and for Rotex and TSC which makes most sense please? I have the wonderful ancient alum. Nilfisk "turtle vacuum' (used to be omnipresent in every Scandinavian hotel for decades), that I have rebuilt.  Initially with adapter tube would that preform ok, or close my ideas and just get a Midi and be done with it?

Many thanks,
Ed

 

[AlexThePalex]

I don't know what a Nilfisk turtle vacuum is, but when you work you want your vac to be small and light to move it easily. I don't know many vacs that beat Festool's Mini or Midi in that regard, I would not want to be without mine.

I had two Mini's myself, but one was older, from 2006 and I revently upgraded it to a Midi from 2018. While the newer Midi is just as fine a vac as the Mini, there is something that annoys me, when I pull the vac from the hose it has a tendency to tip over and land on its side. I got used to doing this with my Mini's, where it was never a problem.