New MFK 700 and DF 500 Owner... What accessories?

[ChuckM]

Snip.but I don't have a Bigfoot and for whatever reason just don't like the support bracket as much as a Domiplate.

The support bracket has a small footprint, making it a weakness. There's no reason why they designed it to be that small other than cost saving on the material (a larger bracket may need to be thicker, too). But it's an area where Festool can easily fix if it wants to -- by simply producing new brackets larger (as large as the systainer can still keep it when the lid is closed).

I have a shop idea on how to make the existing bracket larger, but I have yet to try it out. Of course, it's very easy to make your own large-size right-angle support bracket out of wood or aluminum brackets (but without the benefit of the extra tabs, which I want -- if the TSO big foot or any after-market support bracket comes with tabs, I'd buy one).

 

[Axis39]

First off, thanks again to everyone who has responded.  I am taking notes!

I only dug out the Freud bit from Home Depot to get me up and running that very moment....  I have a pile of Freud router bits, but much prefer my Whitesides.  But, when you're out on the job, or in a hurry, you can't always find Whitesides handy!  (Festool either! LOL)

My Festool bit came in today.  I don't have any more edge banding to do for a little while, but I do have a few miles of very small chamfer to apply....  I will be testing the height adjustment range to see if I can do this with the MFK, or if I have to pull out the battery powered Ridgid trim router.

[member=77700]Axis39[/member]

hope you bought the kit and have the edge guide.

"My biggest question, why doesn't Festool make a base that just has more range?  This thing could kill the trim router market!  It's quiet, smooth, sturdy, strong enough to do edge profiling and stuff.."

They do its called the 1010.

Festool designed the 700 for edge profiling and trimming.

Thats what its name means in German.

I use mine for about everything I look for router bits that will do what I need. Woodline has a wide variety of 1/4 bits that will work in it. recently I bought a rabbiting bit from them so I could use it instead of my 1010.

I get all of what you are saying. But, I am just not sure it has enough adjustability to allow me to do all the profile I come across in my day to day work.  Maybe it does and I am just not seeing the dimensions yet....  But, honestly, it wouldn't matter.  The horizontal 1.5 degree base has saved me in time, just sine I bought it, enough in man-hours ot have easily paid for itself.  Anything after this is gravy!

The edge guide is on it's way (wasn't in stock anywhere last week.  Supposed to come in this coming week).  I did buy the set with two bases....

As for the 700 vs. 1010....  I dunno, it's the difference in ergonomics, how you hold it..  I use my trim router about five times as much as I use any other handheld router.  My router table runs head to head, in overall day to day stuff.  The router table will run for longer spans, and for a lot of the heavier work.  But, it runs less often.  The trim router gets used constantly in little spurts.  I am hoping to replace my regular trim router with the 700.

I like the small form factor for doing template work.  But, I am not looking to run dados for shelves, or anything crazy like that.  Honestly, maybe the 700 does have enough range for everything I need...  I just worry about the overall length of some of the bits.

As for the Domino...  So far, I really like it.  As for adjustments, it's not so far off of the biscuit joiners I've owned, as far as adjustable plates, depths, etc.  The only real difference is thinking in metric, and remembering the width knob (which, I know...  only adjust when the motor's running).

The holster looks interesting.  I like the look of the Festool adjustable side guide pieces that clip into the side of the base...  the one with the pins.  But, I'm not rushing in just yet.  It's going to take me a while to rethink how I work to see if the domino will take over.

 

[bertv]

As for the Domino...  So far, I really like it.  As for adjustments, it's not so far off of the biscuit joiners I've owned, as far as adjustable plates, depths, etc.  The only real difference is thinking in metric, and remembering the width knob (which, I know...  only adjust when the motor's running).

Funny thing about the width knob: in a video demo Sedge (the Festool guy!) shifted between the two tightest settings WITHOUT the machine running.
Could it be that the synchronisation for the switch between middle and wide differs from that between middle and tight? And is that why the 'advice' is to always have the DF500 running while switching for ALL settings?
This keeps me awake at night…

 

[Crazyraceguy]

As fantastic as the MFK700 is, I don't think it could ever be an "only router" for anyone.
In the vertical configuration it is too limited. It is great for edge profiles and such, especially well balanced because of the offset of the base/handle, but depth adjustment is nowhere near what some of the other trim type routers have.
The horizontal base/s are where it really shines (in my opinion anyway) but if that is not important to you? again not ideal as an "only router".

In my mind, there is no such thing, but some people don't have the same versatility requirements.
The OF1010 is close, its only limitation is its size/power. If that is not a priority, I would say that it is the way to go.
The OF1400 effectively the same thing in larger form. It is heavier and more cumbersome for the smaller tasks though, so not ideal for everything either.

For me, even a perfect router is not enough. I have some setup for specific tasks and they only ever do that one thing, but again, not normal.

 

[Dongar]

Bert Vanderveen You can shift the df 500 with out it running and it works fine most of the time. The problem is that some of the time the gears hit instead of meshing and if you try to force it you will cause damage. With it running the gears will slip into place. I have switching mine (early pin type) with it off most of the time since I bought it.

 

[Axis39]

As fantastic as the MFK700 is, I don't think it could ever be an "only router" for anyone.
In the vertical configuration it is too limited. It is great for edge profiles and such, especially well balanced because of the offset of the base/handle, but depth adjustment is nowhere near what some of the other trim type routers have.
The horizontal base/s are where it really shines (in my opinion anyway) but if that is not important to you? again not ideal as an "only router".

In my mind, there is no such thing, but some people don't have the same versatility requirements.
The OF1010 is close, its only limitation is its size/power. If that is not a priority, I would say that it is the way to go.
The OF1400 effectively the same thing in larger form. It is heavier and more cumbersome for the smaller tasks though, so not ideal for everything either.

For me, even a perfect router is not enough. I have some setup for specific tasks and they only ever do that one thing, but again, not normal.

Yes, the Jack-Of-All-Trades router (or about any other tool) is a real unicorn (anyone else tired of that word yet?).

But, I was hoping to replace my Trim router all together....

The horizontal base is the only one I've actually used.  I've switched the bases back and forth, and figured out how it all worked.  But edge trimming was the priority.  I am looking forward to using the vertical base.  Although, like you, I can see me picking up a second 700 some day to keep on vertical, one horizontal.  But, I certainly can't justify that cost yet.

Honestly, I still have my Dewalt 610, and a 618, and a Ridgid full size and trim routers...  as well as my big 3 1/2 Bora motor in my router table.  There is bro shortage of spinny things hanging about my shop.

I am thinking vacuum as my next big Festool purchase (not including accessories, of course)...  But, that's just because the vacuum clamp system is being discontinued (which makes me a little sad.  LOL). Damn Festool is like heroin for grown ups.

So, thinking out loud....  The more I think about it, it is not the actual range of motion, but more the relative position of the collet to the opening in the base.

Two options I can think of for modifying the vertical base for more depth adjustment (for use with some of the longer bits).  First, would be making rods and a height adjustment bolt, just like the ones Festool makes, only longer.  You'd still have to screw/unscrew the knob to get the full range...  That might be kinda annoying. 

But, second, I was thinking you could make a 'spacer' to push the base a little further away from the collet.

This second option has me thinking!  It's probably not anything I could make myself, but something I will be contemplating a great deal....  I figure if you could make a thick spacer, maybe 1/2", 3/4"...  Or in Festool terms, I believe that's 12 and 18 mm.  One side would have sockets for the rods, the other side, rods to go into the base.  I dunno...  It's a thought?

Oh, what if it was an adjustable sleeve?  Hmmm...  I will really have to study this one a bit! 

Of course the toughest design element one would have to get around, are the alignment rods.  Which really are some of the biggest advantage to the 700 system.

 

[Cheese]

I have switching mine (early pin type) with it off most of the time since I bought it.

I've always switched mine while it's in the off position, just have to be gentle.  [smile]

 

[afish]

Posted this before but I own the MFK and never even mounted the vertical base and probably never will.  To me the MFK is strictly for trimming edge banding.  I trim and profile my banding separately with 2 different routers. The MFK takes off the bulk of the material followed by a small roundover/nofile bit in a Dewalt cordless trim router.  Festools idea was to try and make trimming a one step process with the vertical base.  I dont think the MFK was ever designed or intended to be a do all router.  There are plenty of other options out there.  I mainly use 1mm pvc banding and trim that with a razor type cutter. The MFK comes out for thick pvc and real wood edge banding do to its tendency to tear depending on grain with a manual razor type trimmer. Its a specialty tool and not a do all to me.   

 

[ChuckM]

I have switching mine (early pin type) with it off most of the time since I bought it.

I've always switched mine while it's in the off position, just have to be gentle.  [smile]

When I first started, I always changed the width setting only when the machine was running as per the user manual. Then somehow I mis-remembered the procedure, and changed it only when the machine was not running. Nothing happened, but then I caught this after re-reading the DF500 manual:

[attachimg=1]

I have since never changed the dial unless the machine is running (I put a reminder note near the dial). For the DF700, my understanding is that the width setting shouldn't be changed while the machine is running, just opposite to how it is done on a DF500.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.

Funny thing about the width knob: in a video demo Sedge (the Festool guy!) shifted between the two tightest settings WITHOUT the machine running.Snip.

He probably forgot to follow the proper procedure at the time.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Yes, the Jack-Of-All-Trades router (or about any other tool) is a real unicorn (anyone else tired of that word yet?).

But, I was hoping to replace my Trim router all together....

The horizontal base is the only one I've actually used.  I've switched the bases back and forth, and figured out how it all worked.  But edge trimming was the priority.  I am looking forward to using the vertical base.  Although, like you, I can see me picking up a second 700 some day to keep on vertical, one horizontal.  But, I certainly can't justify that cost yet.

Honestly, I still have my Dewalt 610, and a 618, and a Ridgid full size and trim routers...  as well as my big 3 1/2 Bora motor in my router table.  There is bro shortage of spinny things hanging about my shop.

So, thinking out loud....  The more I think about it, it is not the actual range of motion, but more the relative position of the collet to the opening in the base.

Two options I can think of for modifying the vertical base for more depth adjustment (for use with some of the longer bits).  First, would be making rods and a height adjustment bolt, just like the ones Festool makes, only longer.  You'd still have to screw/unscrew the knob to get the full range...  That might be kinda annoying. 

But, second, I was thinking you could make a 'spacer' to push the base a little further away from the collet.

This second option has me thinking!  It's probably not anything I could make myself, but something I will be contemplating a great deal....  I figure if you could make a thick spacer, maybe 1/2", 3/4"...  Or in Festool terms, I believe that's 12 and 18 mm.  One side would have sockets for the rods, the other side, rods to go into the base.  I dunno...  It's a thought?

Oh, what if it was an adjustable sleeve?  Hmmm...  I will really have to study this one a bit! 

Of course the toughest design element one would have to get around, are the alignment rods.  Which really are some of the biggest advantage to the 700 system.

Funny you should say that. I just had to make a spacer for the base of one of my Bosch Colts. I keep one with the offset base installed at all times. It is not used frequently, but enough to leave it ready. The problem with that offset base is even worse than the MFK700 as far as bit limitations. It has none. All you can do is adjust the stick-out of the bit. It is intended to get closer to edges and corners when trimming laminate. It does that well, but that is really all it can do.
I had an odd issue of needing to trim an edge with an obstruction that was too close. To get away from that, I made a spacer plate and used a longer bit to get into where I needed. It's just 3/4" (18mm) plywood and some 1/4" mdf to register and attach it.

I have done this job for many years and never needed this or at least needed it badly enough to actually have to do it, rather than finding another way around it. I will have to do this job again, there are more of these that match this one.  I have worked with the engineers to change the way it goes together. This particular cut won't have to happen again.

 

[xedos]

where are you MFK lovers finding short bits to use the 700 to cut grooves for cabinet backs.  I've got a really hard time sourcing 5mm & 5.5mm dia. bits that are short enough to work with the bases. 

 

[Crazyraceguy]

where are you MFK lovers finding short bits to use the 700 to cut grooves for cabinet backs.  I've got a really hard time sourcing 5mm & 5.5mm dia. bits that are short enough to work with the bases.

I don't. Put simply, I very rarely use the MFK700 with the vertical base, so I haven't really looked into bits like that. I have so many trim routers that there is always one set-up to do what I need.
To do a groove for a cabinet back, I would use an OF1010 with an edge guide or the router table, depending on the size of the parts.

 

[xedos]

where are you MFK lovers finding short bits to use the 700 to cut grooves for cabinet backs.  I've got a really hard time sourcing 5mm & 5.5mm dia. bits that are short enough to work with the bases.

I don't. Put simply, I very rarely use the MFK700 with the vertical base, so I haven't really looked into bits like that. I have so many trim routers that there is always one set-up to do what I need.
To do a groove for a cabinet back, I would use an OF1010 with an edge guide or the router table, depending on the size of the parts.

I know there are a million ways to skin a cat , but I want to utilize the MFK for this task.  There are videos of Sedge and Brent doing exactly this with the MFK.  Trouble is,  Brent is using a 1/4" groove which I don;t want/ need and Sedge can't remember won't say where his bit came from. 

 

[X]

Did you look at CMT bits. Model # 811.050.11

 

[DynaGlide]

[member=67935]xedos[/member] Here are my MFK bits. When I was in Asheville doing Doors and Drawers, we used a Festool 6mm bit with the MFK to do the cabinet backs.

AFAIK Sedge does 6mm backs. The mortising bit is for flush trimming:

 

[Crazyraceguy]

where are you MFK lovers finding short bits to use the 700 to cut grooves for cabinet backs.  I've got a really hard time sourcing 5mm & 5.5mm dia. bits that are short enough to work with the bases.

I don't. Put simply, I very rarely use the MFK700 with the vertical base, so I haven't really looked into bits like that. I have so many trim routers that there is always one set-up to do what I need.
To do a groove for a cabinet back, I would use an OF1010 with an edge guide or the router table, depending on the size of the parts.

I know there are a million ways to skin a cat , but I want to utilize the MFK for this task.  There are videos of Sedge and Brent doing exactly this with the MFK.  Trouble is,  Brent is using a 1/4" groove which I don;t want/ need and Sedge can't remember won't say where his bit came from.

I get it, I wasn't trying to say you were somehow wrong, just about how I would do it.
Have you tried searching for a 3/16" bit?  The difference between 3/16" and 5mm is so little as to be zero, so that my make the search easier.

 

[Ebuwan]

Funny, I also have a Domiplate that i haven't used in FOREVER.

I have the Offset base system from Woodpeckers.https://www.woodpeck.com/df500-offset-base-system.html

it's cool for it's intended purpose, repeating domino placement over and over. It was SUPER handy for a kitchen build i worked on last summer, since so many sides involved. It also uses the same track set as Woodpeckers parallel guide, so I had it setup on both left and right; it looked like a friggin spaceship.

Now, if you are only doing a few workpieces, eh, I don't think its worth it. If you are building 26 kitchen cabinets, which equals 104 pieces of plywood you are putting Dominos in, it was worth every penny.

The handle is also nice and beefy.

 

[Ebuwan]

[member=67935]xedos[/member]

AFAIK Sedge does 6mm backs. The mortising bit is for flush trimming:

Correct, he does 6mm with the MFK.

I watched his stuff on repeat before a cab build last summer, based on his exact method; MFT/Track saw break down, MFK for rear groove, Conturo for edge banding and MFK for trimming, and Dominos for putting it all alligned/together.

 

[Ebuwan]

Don't hit me if this was already mentioned and I missed it.

Something like this, is it too long to work for what you need?
https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/products/ru1805?_pos=10&_sid=08d45c7a3&_ss=r