New Planex - Abrasive recommendations question

tnmomof7

Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2015
Messages
6
Hi all,

I am about to purchase a planex combo with a CT36 for personal home reno and use on houses we flip. It's the dust thing that really got me started down this path. In our house there's about 4000sf of popcorn ceilings that need to be smoothed and repainted. Plus all the walls...this house has seen many kids grow up here.

I've been watching youtubes and reading through the messages to narrow down on the details. I am now to debating abrasives. Brilliant or Granat? From my notes it seems that 60, 180 and 240 or 220 are the best bets for my purposes of popcorn removal and general wall prep for painting.

Also, I have the soft pad set 496106 and am debating on the need of Planex Interface Pad 2X LHS225. Recommendations?

I am buying the support harness, too. I've been trying to figure out the best hand sander for at the corners. That seems to be a whole other topic.

Oh, one other thing: I saw someone say that the planex will remove wallpaper. Anyone have experience with that? What did you use for that?

I'd appreciate feedback for this newbie,
Melani
 
For finishing, I stop at 220 and prefer Granat. I use the same on a DTS 400 for the details.

Popcorn, in my experience, has different qualities. Some is pretty tough and I've even used 36 Saphir. Other popcorn is pretty easy to remove. Use the outside suction because it'll clog the pad pretty quickly.

For wall texture that I've run into, 60 Granat works pretty well.

BTW:
There are pro's here that should chime in...

Tom
 
If it comes off with a 6" putty knife or a snowshovel, then you would have less sanding to do.
 
In theory one could sand it... (But it would be a mongrel)

A (s)pray bottle and a few different sized putty knives are a lot less money and a lot faster, and a effectively a pile of popcorn rather than an airborne dust storm of epic proportion...

If one was replastering the ceiling then the planex can be the correct choice of tool after the plaster. (just probably not before)
 
I have seen those videos. The idea of doing that for 4000sqft of ceilings 9-11' high in an occupied household is less than appealing. It's my understanding that the Planex is a great tool for removing the popcorn ceiling without all the prep, mess and clean up that either a wet or nondust extraction technique would entail. And my shoulder and neck hurt just thinking of reaching up above my head and out as far as I can stretch while laddered.  [eek]

 
The planex is not the godsend you think it is.

This is the point where the forum gets tricky and I should probably keep my mouth shut. It's tough to say what I think only trying to help without getting people mad. Ill only be posting another week then I get busy again for many moths so what the heck. Again, I am only trying to help, nothing more. So ignore everything I say, that's fine. If my brother came  to me with this job this is what I would tell him.

I know my limitations. The people dont want to leave and you want to use a Planex to remove the popcorn while they are there?  And you have never done it before? And its not your own home or a self project?

Are you getting into this as a profession or is this a one time thing? If it's a one time thing I suggest not doing it yourself. That Planex although a great tool is not the godsend it appears, not for one guy and the conditions you describe. Doing this as a first time you are going to make a mes and make mistakes, even with the Planex.. The pros here use water, yes even for 4000 sq feet, they dont sand it off.

That's a job for people that do nothing but that. They charge .60 to 2.70 a foot with free estimates. I have taken jobs I knew nothing about and lost my rear on them. This is one I now know from experience I just wouldn't do myself. I would only take that on if the home were empty with no clients living there, no furniture, etc. And I would still get the free estimate and compare the cost of dong it myself.

After getting the free estimate I would add a 1.00 a foot and pass it on to the client. Then do the rest of the work not relating to the popcorn myself. There is nothing wrong with using subs, making sure the sub does it correctly and help them along to get you set up for the next phase of the job. That' worth at least a 1.00 a foot for you, maybe add only .25 or .50 depending on the scope of the job and location. But please consider getting the free estimate to at least price it out correctly and get the pros take on how they would do it. If they say they are using a Planex type tool you are on the right track if not...
 
60 grit Granat will eat through unpainted popcorn pretty much as fast as you can move it, and get 90% of the dust. Painted is another story, it'll need 24 or 36 grit sapphire and pretty much count on skimming it after, sometimes it'll come off at about 100ft/hr and others it's so hard I'll just knock down the high stuff and skim it.
And I am a pro and do sand it off.
 
The DTS 400 is the sander or the corners. But the apex of the angles can be tricky as it can have a lot of paint built up on the popcorn from painting the walls.
 
Soft pad set comes with two interface  pads I believe. Those will last you a long time. Use the standard pad for popcorn removal and the soft for finish sanding. And Granat is the way to go.
 
I'm not pro. I've done several hundred square feet at most.
My suggestion would be to immediately determine if the popcorn has been painted over.
In my (very limited) experience, if the popcorn is painted, the water method will not work.
We ended up knocking it down as much as possible and doing a skim coat.
 
I'm not a pro at drywall either- I normally save the bigger jobs for the professionals- but I did get the planex for some work in our dining room.  Popcorn was painted throughout so it was difficult to remove.  Since it was a smaller job and I was inexperienced with using the planex, I chose brilliant 80 grit to try to remove it.  Took a little while to sand smooth, but at least I didn't gouge the ceiling, and actually worked quite well.  I used brilliant 180 and 220 to finish.  Now with a little more experience, I would go with paper a little more coarse for the removal and probably switch to Granat.

If you have never used a sander like a planex, practice on walls first if you can- ceiling adds a whole new level of complexity.

Agree with Saskataper that the DTS400 is perfect for the corners- love that sander.

Now time to switch the CT36AC to capture wood dust in the furniture shop for a while...

Regards,
Gerald
 
Thanks for the feedback!

The ceilings are not painted. A couple rooms have some old touch-up work that may be a differnt story, but they are small areas.

This is my own house. I prefer my learning curve on my own property.

Learning on the walls makes lots of sense. Thanks Gerald!

Saskataper, I'm debating on the Granat 80 vs 60. It sure would be nice to have an assortment pack.

There will be crown at the ceiling on all but the vaulted. That will be the last one I attempt.

Appreciate the recommendation on the DTS400. It's now on the list.

I have 3 motivated teens to help learn on this project, one in particular, because they want to have the paid work on the houses we flip instead of hiring out to people we have to go behind and fix things afterwards. We've learned so much on my first flip. Took too long and I realize how picky I am on work. Guess that's why I learned my own plumbing, carpentry and tile work while raising and homeschooling kids. Making bookcases seems like the best way to explain basic geometry. The 17 yo has been hired by a contractor on a trial basis and she is thrilled.

Melani
 
Tom (ToolHome) who replied above would be able to put together a sandpaper assortment for you.
 
I'd probably say go with 80, it will cut through unpainted popcorn like butter and won't do as much damage to the joints underneath.
 
Heres a vid of the first time I used my planex, This was a painted ceiling and I was using 80 grit brilliant in the vid. Now I use 24 or 36 grit on painted.
It works best to sand into the popcorn like I am here, better dust collection as the port is at the front of the sanding head.
 
Back
Top