New tool day: TS 60 K + track

sebr023

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May 18, 2022
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Just wanted to share with you guys!

It’s a new tool day for me! Santa Claud just got me a brand new ts 60 k + 55inch track!

It expand my modest festool collection of RO150 and CT 26 dust extractor.

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Planning on purchasing a couple of accessoires soon.

I’ll value and use this saw for many many years of course. But What would be the next intelligent purchase in the festool lineup? Domino or router? (My guess is domino)

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That's quite a gift. If, by accessories, you meant for the saw, I would suggest getting a Rapid Clamp. That is especially helpful if you intend to do any bevel cutting at all. The grip strips on the tracks work very well, you don't really need to clamp for most cuts, but that's because you are pushing down into the strength of the grip. When you tilt the saw for a bevel cut, that doesn't happen. This is one of the first frustrations that people have with bevel cuts, their bevels will not end up straight, because the track moves. We can save you from that, before it ever happens.  [big grin]
 
After recently using my TS75 to break down panels, I decided to bite the bullet and ordered one of these as well. It’s a lot of coin for a track saw but I figured I can offset the cost by selling a spare 2700mm rail, TS75 and the remains of my old TS55 that got smoked.

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Crazyraceguy said:
That's quite a gift. If, by accessories, you meant for the saw, I would suggest getting a Rapid Clamp. That is especially helpful if you intend to do any bevel cutting at all. The grip strips on the tracks work very well, you don't really need to clamp for most cuts, but that's because you are pushing down into the strength of the grip. When you tilt the saw for a bevel cut, that doesn't happen. This is one of the first frustrations that people have with bevel cuts, their bevels will not end up straight, because the track moves. We can save you from that, before it ever happens.  [big grin]
Do you have a link for the clamp? Cause yeah, I plan on using the most of the track saw. May table saw is a jobsite dewalt 7485, ans I have the OEM miter bar, so for miter cut it isn’t the best.

I was eyeing the mdf table, probably going to DIY a version of it.

And probably 3d bumper for the track and and things like that.

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Peter Kelly said:
After recently using my TS75 to break down panels, I decided to bite the bullet and ordered one of these as well. It’s a lot of coin for a track saw but I figured I can offset the cost by selling a spare 2700mm rail, TS75 and the remains of my old TS55 that got smoked.

[attachimg=1]
Honestly I wasn’t quite sure on which to ask for Christmas.

Was eyeing from ts55 to ts75, but figured I would be okay with the depth of cut of the ts60 and since I will mainly use it with dust collector I figured that I didn’t really need the cordless version of the track saw.

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Congratulations! That's a really nice saw and you'll undoubtedly find so many opportunities to use it. I keep a short track for in-shop utility plus both the 55" and the 8' tracks to cover all bases,
 
Jim_in_PA said:
Congratulations! That's a really nice saw and you'll undoubtedly find so many opportunities to use it. I keep a short track for in-shop utility plus both the 55" and the 8' tracks to cover all bases,
The short track is the 800 I would assume?

I didn’t know they existed until I saw and image on festool or lee valley website and was wondering why the track looked so short.

What is the mean use of a short track like this?

I used my friend’s Milwaukee track saw a couple time and found that the 55in track was a bit too big for some cut I made.

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sebr023 said:
What is the mean use of a short track like this?

The 800mm rail is super-useful for making shorter cuts where the 1400mm rail is too unwieldy and too cumbersome. Think of it as being like the 12” rule you’ll use to measure a 5-inch dimension, rather than using a rule which is a yard long. Apart from making short cuts on smaller pieces of material, mine’s used very often for tasks such as doing plunge cuts to create cutouts for undermount sinks when I’m building kitchens - plus dozens of other applications. The 800 probably comes out of the van even more often than my longer rails. Congrats on a truly lovely saw.

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woodbutcherbower said:
sebr023 said:
What is the mean use of a short track like this?

The 800mm rail is super-useful for making shorter cuts where the 1400mm rail is too unwieldy and too cumbersome. Think of it as being like the 12” rule you’ll use to measure a 5-inch dimension, rather than using a rule which is a yard long. Apart from making short cuts on smaller pieces of material, mine’s used very often for tasks such as doing plunge cuts to create cutouts in undermount sinks when I’m building kitchens. It probably comes out of the van as often as my longer rails. Congrats on a truly lovely saw.

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Thank you! I see the use now.

Will definitely look to buy one!
I was thinking of doing a mfg table with a hinged rail. That could go there and removed when needed else where I guess.

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sebr023 said:
The short track is the 800 I would assume?

My short track is actually a Makita that I picked up from a person in a woodworking forum classifieds, brand new but at a very reasonable price because he had two of them. It's about 800mm, but I'd have to go to the shop to confirm. I find it handy for all kinds of shop work including modifying cabinets and other utility use where using my sliding table saw or other tools would be ungainly. Correspondingly, I use the long track for ripping sheet goods on my flattening table as my slider is a short stroke and honestly, even if it had a full size wagon, I really cannot handle the heavy material easily anymore. Tracksaws are very versatile.

BTW, the track can be used with other tools, too, such as routers for grooves/dados and even the jig saw when you need more depth than the tracksaw can provide for say, trimming a slab, and still want a reasonably straight cut.
 
I purchased a second 1400 track + connector yesterday and went over to my friends house today and fit a couple of finishing pannel in his new Kitchen, laundry room and office. Went very very well with the track saw. Love it.

The one thing I don’t like, in fact, 2 thing, is the motor seems to take a while to wind up.
And second, but that maybe(must be) how I tighten the cam to adjust the saw on the track,  but I found pushing the saw a bit harder than I anticipated.

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Jim_in_PA said:
sebr023 said:
The short track is the 800 I would assume?

My short track is actually a Makita that I picked up from a person in a woodworking forum classifieds, brand new but at a very reasonable price because he had two of them. It's about 800mm, but I'd have to go to the shop to confirm. I find it handy for all kinds of shop work including modifying cabinets and other utility use where using my sliding table saw or other tools would be ungainly. Correspondingly, I use the long track for ripping sheet goods on my flattening table as my slider is a short stroke and honestly, even if it had a full size wagon, I really cannot handle the heavy material easily anymore. Tracksaws are very versatile.

BTW, the track can be used with other tools, too, such as routers for grooves/dados and even the jig saw when you need more depth than the tracksaw can provide for say, trimming a slab, and still want a reasonably straight cut.

I’ll be using the track saw mainly for breaking down to size sheet goods. I have a tiny contractor job site dewalt 7485 and I find that it’s pretty hard to rip nicely with it and the miter gauge it’s reeaaally cheap on this table saw. So any cross cut comes out bad.

I’m definitely getting a shorter track!

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sebr023 said:
I purchased a second 1400 track + connector yesterday and went over to my friends house today and fit a couple of finishing pannel in his new Kitchen, laundry room and office. Went very very well with the track saw. Love it.

The one thing I don’t like, in fact, 2 thing, is the motor seems to take a while to wind up.
And second, but that maybe(must be) how I tighten the cam to adjust the saw on the track,  but I found pushing the saw a bit harder than I anticipated.
Two things, you have a new rail, so running it lightly along its length with a grit 6000 sandpaper to smooth out is not a bad idea. If you do not do it, it will happen auto-magically as the rails are used with the saw.

Second, the cams on TS 60 are plastic and elastic to an extent. This is by design so they do not have to be tightened to the hilt for precision. First tighten one cam to the hilt until resistance when saw is stationary, leaving the other cam "free". Then try to move the saw and losening the cam slowly until the saw moves easily. Now do the same with the other cam and you are set.
They are pre-stressed a bit so will "position" the saw correctly even when not (absolutely) tight. That is one of the big advantages introduced with the TS 55 R some years ago. Also, once set, they hold the setting. Again, unlike basic cams which wear down pretty fast.
 
Jim_in_PA said:
sebr023 said:
The short track is the 800 I would assume?

BTW, the track can be used with other tools, too, such as routers for grooves/dados and even the jig saw when you need more depth than the tracksaw can provide for say, trimming a slab, and still want a reasonably straight cut.

I don’t see how a jig saw would cut deeper than a circular saw.

And don’t have festool router. But I guess you can just ride the router on the side of the track.

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mino said:
sebr023 said:
I purchased a second 1400 track + connector yesterday and went over to my friends house today and fit a couple of finishing pannel in his new Kitchen, laundry room and office. Went very very well with the track saw. Love it.

The one thing I don’t like, in fact, 2 thing, is the motor seems to take a while to wind up.
And second, but that maybe(must be) how I tighten the cam to adjust the saw on the track,  but I found pushing the saw a bit harder than I anticipated.
Two things, you have a new rail, so running it lightly along its length with a grit 6000 sandpaper to smooth out is not a bad idea. If you do not do it, it will happen auto-magically as the rails are used with the saw.

Second, the cams on TS 60 are plastic and elastic to an extent. This is by design so they do not have to be tightened to the hilt for precision. First tighten one cam to the hilt until resistance when saw is stationary, leaving the other cam "free". Then try to move the saw and losening the cam slowly until the saw moves easily. Now do the same with the other cam and you are set.
They are pre-stressed a bit so will "position" the saw correctly even when not (absolutely) tight. That is one of the big advantages introduced with the TS 55 R some years ago. Also, once set, they hold the setting. Again, unlike basic cams which wear down pretty fast.
Thank you!
Don’t have 6k sand paper on hand, but will take a look next time I go to the store.

Will try your technique for cam tensioning.

In regard to the motor winding up, I thinks it’s normal. I tested it yesterday directly plugged into the outlet, and I was a bit short than when we had the extra (something like 100’) long power cord extension. Also, I watch a sedge tool video and his ts 55 kinda « wind up » like the 60, so I guess it’s normal.

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sebr023 said:
The one thing I don’t like, in fact, 2 thing, is the motor seems to take a while to wind up.

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That's just the nature of the beast. After you activate the switch, electronics do some kind of wizardry and it takes a few seconds for it to wind up. I'm not sure if it is the safety stop electronics, the brushless motor, or both?
My TS55 is an older model with a riving knife, so I don't know if this slow triggering is similar on the newer version of those too, also with the safety stop, rather than riving knife.
 
sebr023 said:
I don’t see how a jig saw would cut deeper than a circular saw.

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Oh, it definitely can. There are some very long jig saw blades out there, well over 6".
 
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