New tool day: TS 60 K + track

[sebr023]

I don’t see how a jig saw would cut deeper than a circular saw.

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Oh, it definitely can. There are some very long jig saw blades out there, well over 6".

Oh damn! Didn’t know that. All I see in my head is my little 3in ish blade that cut crooked because not support on the bottom.

Thank you!

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[Michael Kellough]

The saw is guided by the raised spine on the rail. The spine is supposed be the same width on all the rails but it does vary slightly. Adjust the cams to the larger spine and put it first when joining rails.

 

[sebr023]

@ OP
check this thread:
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...sscutting-track-saw-cordless-rail-compatible/

From this thread I’ve done every purchased wrong in the tracks length departement as well as connector! [emoji23]
They suggested to have a 800/1080, 1400 and 1900 as starter set.

They advice to buy the makita connector since they’re not destructive. So the set screws for the festool connectors leave mark/indentation in the rail? Should I return the festool connector? Is it still relevant since festool updated they connector design?

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[Jim_in_PA]

BTW, the track can be used with other tools, too, such as routers for grooves/dados and even the jig saw when you need more depth than the tracksaw can provide for say, trimming a slab, and still want a reasonably straight cut.

I don’t see how a jig saw would cut deeper than a circular saw.

And don’t have festool router. But I guess you can just ride the router on the side of the track.

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A quality jigsaw can handle a longer blade. Strangely, the very first Festool tool I bought was the jigsaw ('cause I didn't have one at the time and needed one) and seeing how well it cut thick material "straight and true" was convincing. The fact that it can run along the track adds to the versatility. Same with the routers...I use my OF1400 for grooves and dados, both on the MFT and along a stand-alone track when the material workpiece requires it. (I do not do dados/grooves on my sliding table saw, although it's capable)

 

[Hipplewm]

The long wind up time is also called a "Soft Start" and is meant to not blow your circuit breaker, especially if you have this hooked to a CT and/or have a shop vac running on the same circuit.
The TS60 is listed at 1500 watts - that is roughly 12 amps at max load (Startup is kind of like max load but instantaneous) if you have a shop vac running and have a 15A circuit you can easily pop the breaker or having the CT start while the Saw is cranking up etc

Basically taking a bit to wind up to full speed is a good thing, just wait for it to hit max rpm before starting to cut or plunge

Now, I can't find anything in their marketing that matches my conjecture - but at 1500watts they have to do something to prevent a large initial power surge.

 

[sebr023]

The long wind up time is also called a "Soft Start" and is meant to not blow your circuit breaker, especially if you have this hooked to a CT and/or have a shop vac running on the same circuit.
The TS60 is listed at 1500 watts - that is roughly 12 amps at max load (Startup is kind of like max load but instantaneous) if you have a shop vac running and have a 15A circuit you can easily pop the breaker or having the CT start while the Saw is cranking up etc

Basically taking a bit to wind up to full speed is a good thing, just wait for it to hit max rpm before starting to cut or plunge

Now, I can't find anything in their marketing that matches my conjecture - but at 1500watts they have to do something to prevent a large initial power surge.

That would make total sense, just me not being used to have a (powerful) corded circular saw. My previous one is a 20v 6-1/4in blade dewalt. So I guess soft start aren’t as critical when you have battery.

How’s that work when you have your ts 60 plugged into the ct ? Are those Max amp adding up?

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[sebr023]

BTW, the track can be used with other tools, too, such as routers for grooves/dados and even the jig saw when you need more depth than the tracksaw can provide for say, trimming a slab, and still want a reasonably straight cut.

I don’t see how a jig saw would cut deeper than a circular saw.

And don’t have festool router. But I guess you can just ride the router on the side of the track.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A quality jigsaw can handle a longer blade. Strangely, the very first Festool tool I bought was the jigsaw ('cause I didn't have one at the time and needed one) and seeing how well it cut thick material "straight and true" was convincing. The fact that it can run along the track adds to the versatility. Same with the routers...I use my OF1400 for grooves and dados, both on the MFT and along a stand-alone track when the material workpiece requires it. (I do not do dados/grooves on my sliding table saw, although it's capable)

Oh gotcha. Never understood why people would buy a festool jigsaw, but I guess this is the selling point!

I’m debating if I should get a domino next or a router. I have a handheld makita, and I triton 3.25hp in a makeshift table. I guess domino would be more of a value, and then a router to “complete” the “set”

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[Hipplewm]

The long wind up time is also called a "Soft Start" and is meant to not blow your circuit breaker, especially if you have this hooked to a CT and/or have a shop vac running on the same circuit.
The TS60 is listed at 1500 watts - that is roughly 12 amps at max load (Startup is kind of like max load but instantaneous) if you have a shop vac running and have a 15A circuit you can easily pop the breaker or having the CT start while the Saw is cranking up etc

Basically taking a bit to wind up to full speed is a good thing, just wait for it to hit max rpm before starting to cut or plunge

Now, I can't find anything in their marketing that matches my conjecture - but at 1500watts they have to do something to prevent a large initial power surge.

That would make total sense, just me not being used to have a (powerful) corded circular saw. My previous one is a 20v 6-1/4in blade dewalt. So I guess soft start aren’t as critical when you have battery.

How’s that work when you have your ts 60 plugged into the ct ? Are those Max amp adding up?

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Nothing is "free" they certainly add up

That is why most people if given a choice will always wire their shop with 20A service

 

[Cheese]

Oh darn! Didn’t know that. All I see in my head is my little 3in ish blade that cut crooked because not support on the bottom.

Thank you!

Here's a 10" Bosch blade that I keep with the P1 cc, just in case. My original thought was for 4" or 6" thick foam but Bosch suggests deck posts.

[attachimg=1]

 

[sebr023]

Oh darn! Didn’t know that. All I see in my head is my little 3in ish blade that cut crooked because not support on the bottom.

Thank you!

Here's a 10" Bosch blade that I keep with the P1 cc, just in case. My original thought was for 4" or 6" thick foam but Bosch suggests deck posts.

[attachimg=1]

Damn! Ok! Haha! Clearly quality tool means quality cuts!

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[Crazyraceguy]

How’s that work when you have your ts 60 plugged into the ct ? Are those Max amp adding up?

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They are always adding up, the "max" part is variable. I can run my TS60 through 6/4 White Oak, while connected to the CT26, no problem. That's on a 20amp circuit.
However, if I try that with them plugged into my retractable cord reel, it trips the internal breaker on the side of the housing. It can only take 15amps. Domino, OF1010, or RO125 are all ok with it.

 

[sebr023]

How’s that work when you have your ts 60 plugged into the ct ? Are those Max amp adding up?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are always adding up, the "max" part is variable. I can run my TS60 through 6/4 White Oak, while connected to the CT26, no problem. That's on a 20amp circuit.
However, if I try that with them plugged into my retractable cord reel, it trips the internal breaker on the side of the housing. It can only take 15amps. Domino, OF1010, or RO125 are all ok with it.

The electric circuitry here is so trash. House build in 1945-1950 and lots of reno have been done and previous owner just tapped on the nearest circuit to add electricity somewhere.

I’ll make sure to add a 20 amp circuit when I move 2nd trimester next year.

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[mino]

From this thread I’ve done every purchased wrong in the tracks length departement as well as connector! [emoji23]
They suggested to have a 800/1080, 1400 and 1900 as starter set.

They advice to buy the makita connector since they’re not destructive. So the set screws for the festool connectors leave mark/indentation in the rail? Should I return the festool connector? Is it still relevant since festool updated they connector design?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The new (self-aligning) festool connector is a very good design. Unfortunately, the 2nd one which ships in the set is still the denting type. This limits how much (and so how securely) one can tighten it without damaging the rail.

If you got the old set somehow (two same-loking connectors) best try to return it.

If you got the new one, go and get one Makita set and play around ... it is cheap and let you make your own calls what you prefer to use.

If you bought too many 1400 rails ... you can always cut one up to 600 and 800 and just get a 1900 KP one. I mean it seriously.

 

[sebr023]

@ OP
check this thread:
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...sscutting-track-saw-cordless-rail-compatible/

From this thread I’ve done every purchased wrong in the tracks length departement as well as connector! [emoji23]
They suggested to have a 800/1080, 1400 and 1900 as starter set.

They advice to buy the makita connector since they’re not destructive. So the set screws for the festool connectors leave mark/indentation in the rail? Should I return the festool connector? Is it still relevant since festool updated they connector design?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The new (self-aligning) festool connector is a very good design. Unfortunately, the 2nd one (not the self-aligning one) which goes into the top groove is still the denting type. This limits how one can tighten it without damaging the rail.

If you got the old set somehow (two same-lloging connectors) best try to return it.

If you got the new one, go and get one Makita set and play around ... it is cheap and bet you make your own calls what you prefer.

If you bought too many 1400 rails ... you can always cut one up to 600 and 800 and just get a 1900 KP one. I mean it seriously.

Oh! Yeah.
I read that in the thread posted. I was a bit surprised to know people cut their rail! [emoji28]

What would be the best way to cut it?
Using the other rail, upside down the one you cut, and go at it? Or on the miter saw?

I’d have to check the part number of the festool connector.

Also, what the hole in the LR32 rail used for? I’ve seen a bunch mentionning those rail instead of the regular one.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hipplewm]

@ OP
check this thread:
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...sscutting-track-saw-cordless-rail-compatible/

From this thread I’ve done every purchased wrong in the tracks length departement as well as connector! [emoji23]
They suggested to have a 800/1080, 1400 and 1900 as starter set.

They advice to buy the makita connector since they’re not destructive. So the set screws for the festool connectors leave mark/indentation in the rail? Should I return the festool connector? Is it still relevant since festool updated they connector design?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The new (self-aligning) festool connector is a very good design. Unfortunately, the 2nd one (not the self-aligning one) which goes into the top groove is still the denting type. This limits how one can tighten it without damaging the rail.

If you got the old set somehow (two same-lloging connectors) best try to return it.

If you got the new one, go and get one Makita set and play around ... it is cheap and bet you make your own calls what you prefer.

If you bought too many 1400 rails ... you can always cut one up to 600 and 800 and just get a 1900 KP one. I mean it seriously.

Oh! Yeah.
I read that in the thread posted. I was a bit surprised to know people cut their rail! [emoji28]

What would be the best way to cut it?
Using the other rail, upside down the one you cut, and go at it? Or on the miter saw?

I’d have to check the part number of the festool connector.

Also, what the hole in the LR32 rail used for? I’ve seen a bunch mentionning those rail instead of the regular one.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mitre saw cuts aluminum quite easily - go slow

The holes in LR32 are for 32mm on center holes used mainly in cabinets for mounting shelf pins, but also can be used for 96mm on center dog holes in a workbench or used for making holes for mounting drawer slides in cabinet boxes etc plus if you skip the holes - dados (any guide rail can do dados)

Here is the part that makes the magic happen:https://www.festoolusa.com/accessory/583290---lr-32-set

 

[Jim_in_PA]

Oh darn! Didn’t know that. All I see in my head is my little 3in ish blade that cut crooked because not support on the bottom.

Thank you!

Here's a 10" Bosch blade that I keep with the P1 cc, just in case. My original thought was for 4" or 6" thick foam but Bosch suggests deck posts.

[attachimg=1]

That right there is a serious jigsaw blade! I don't think I've used one longer than about 4" with my old Trion. But there is always a time and a place where one might need a relatively accurate cut, even if slow, that might get messed up using a "sawsall" type tool.

 

[sebr023]

@ OP
check this thread:
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...sscutting-track-saw-cordless-rail-compatible/

From this thread I’ve done every purchased wrong in the tracks length departement as well as connector! [emoji23]
They suggested to have a 800/1080, 1400 and 1900 as starter set.

They advice to buy the makita connector since they’re not destructive. So the set screws for the festool connectors leave mark/indentation in the rail? Should I return the festool connector? Is it still relevant since festool updated they connector design?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The new (self-aligning) festool connector is a very good design. Unfortunately, the 2nd one (not the self-aligning one) which goes into the top groove is still the denting type. This limits how one can tighten it without damaging the rail.

If you got the old set somehow (two same-lloging connectors) best try to return it.

If you got the new one, go and get one Makita set and play around ... it is cheap and bet you make your own calls what you prefer.

If you bought too many 1400 rails ... you can always cut one up to 600 and 800 and just get a 1900 KP one. I mean it seriously.

Oh! Yeah.
I read that in the thread posted. I was a bit surprised to know people cut their rail! [emoji28]

What would be the best way to cut it?
Using the other rail, upside down the one you cut, and go at it? Or on the miter saw?

I’d have to check the part number of the festool connector.

Also, what the hole in the LR32 rail used for? I’ve seen a bunch mentionning those rail instead of the regular one.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mitre saw cuts aluminum quite easily - go slow

The holes in LR32 are for 32mm on center holes used mainly in cabinets for mounting shelf pins, but also can be used for 96mm on center dog holes in a workbench or used for making holes for mounting drawer slides in cabinet boxes etc plus if you skip the holes - dados (any guide rail can do dados)

Here is the part that makes the magic happen:https://www.festoolusa.com/accessory/583290---lr-32-set

Very interesting! Thank you!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Here's a 10" Bosch blade that I keep with the P1 cc, just in case. My original thought was for 4" or 6" thick foam but Bosch suggests deck posts.

That blade (I use them for gable-end scrolling cuts when I'm building fancy green oak door canopies using 8" x 8" material) is 100% unusable in anything other than a P1CC. There's no other jigsaw out there which will keep that length of blade at 90 degrees to the cutting face. What a machine.

 

[sebr023]

Here's a 10" Bosch blade that I keep with the P1 cc, just in case. My original thought was for 4" or 6" thick foam but Bosch suggests deck posts.

That blade (I use them for gable-end scrolling cuts when I'm building fancy green oak door canopies using 8" x 8" material) is 100% unusable in anything other than a P1CC. There's no other jigsaw out there which will keep that length of blade at 90 degrees to the cutting face. What a machine.

Will have to watch video on that machine!

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[mino]

I see you are a bit on a woohaa buying spree for new toys. Been there, done that.

Best advice is, not overthink and over-buy, build some stuff and then see what you need/miss/etc.

Best is to buy tools needed for a project ... not tools to have tools.
[smile]