New tool day: TS 60 K + track

[Coen]

[...]

BTW, the track can be used with other tools, too, such as routers for grooves/dados and even the jig saw when you need more depth than the tracksaw can provide for say, trimming a slab, and still want a reasonably straight cut.

Be very carefull when doing deep cuts with the jigsaw and rail. You need the 'wide tooth' blades for that, the FSG (eg 204327, 204335) blades. Otherwise the body of the blade will steer the blade and you end up with a crooked cut, a destroyed blade or both.

 

[Coen]

That's quite a gift. If, by accessories, you meant for the saw, I would suggest getting a Rapid Clamp. That is especially helpful if you intend to do any bevel cutting at all. The grip strips on the tracks work very well, you don't really need to clamp for most cuts, but that's because you are pushing down into the strength of the grip. When you tilt the saw for a bevel cut, that doesn't happen. This is one of the first frustrations that people have with bevel cuts, their bevels will not end up straight, because the track moves. We can save you from that, before it ever happens.  [big grin]

I wanted to buy that rapid clamp, years and years ago. I tried it in the store first and I found it just wandered too much because the end was too flexible and too rubbery. I didn't buy it and still did plenty of bevel cuts.
But when you can't access below the material you want to cut the rapid clamp is a nice way out.

I see you are a bit on a woohaa buying spree for new toys. Been there, done that.

Best advice is, not overthink and over-buy, build some stuff and then see what you need/miss/etc.

Best is to buy tools needed for a project ... not tools to have tools.
[smile]

Well, if you don't know what exists, it's hard to know you miss something. Like the Knipex pliers wrench. I still see electricians molesting cable glands with pipe wrenches... Most of them look like they see water burning when I show them a pliers wrench.

The Festool catalog is full of nice stuff with cryptic descriptions..

 

[Vtshopdog]

Best is to buy tools needed for a project ... not tools to have tools.
[smile]

LOL
I like to find projects that require the tool I want to buy…..

 

[sebr023]

I see you are a bit on a woohaa buying spree for new toys. Been there, done that.

Best advice is, not overthink and over-buy, build some stuff and then see what you need/miss/etc.

Best is to buy tools needed for a project ... not tools to have tools.
[smile]

Haha thanks for the advice, but fear not, my budget is spend for now!

I needed the second track for helping a friends. Next tool will probably be next year. Or maybe when moving later in 2024 if I need to build furniture.

But your advice is solid. That how I usually do it, but it when I need it, or it’s massively in sale and I KNOW I will need it!

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[Cheese]

LOL
I like to find projects that require the tool I want to buy…..

+1  now that's very funny  [thumbs up]

 

[sebr023]

Best is to buy tools needed for a project ... not tools to have tools.
[smile]

LOL
I like to find projects that require the tool I want to buy…..

Kinda do the same thing, but never put it into words like that! Haha!

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[sebr023]

3d printed 2 pair of rail bumper and an harbor hole cover:

The green isn’t a 100% match, but it’ll do for now!

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[Crazyraceguy]

I wanted to buy that rapid clamp, years and years ago. I tried it in the store first and I found it just wandered too much because the end was too flexible and too rubbery. I didn't buy it and still did plenty of bevel cuts.
But when you can't access below the material you want to cut the rapid clamp is a nice way out.

The Festool catalog is full of nice stuff with cryptic descriptions..

That can be an issue, but it's not that bad in practice. You also have to be careful about overtightening. This can cause the track to bow upward at the ends. The other thing is that they absolutely should not be used on connected tracks, for hopefully obvious reasons.  [unsure]
It's another one of those "I don't need it often, but when I do, there isn't a better alternative"

 

[sebr023]

I wanted to buy that rapid clamp, years and years ago. I tried it in the store first and I found it just wandered too much because the end was too flexible and too rubbery. I didn't buy it and still did plenty of bevel cuts.
But when you can't access below the material you want to cut the rapid clamp is a nice way out.

The Festool catalog is full of nice stuff with cryptic descriptions..

That can be an issue, but it's not that bad in practice. You also have to be careful about overtightening. This can cause the track to bow upward at the ends. The other thing is that they absolutely should not be used on connected tracks, for hopefully obvious reasons.  [unsure]
It's another one of those "I don't need it often, but when I do, there isn't a better alternative"

In videos I’ve seen people use dovetail clamp under their tracks to clamp it.

I have those:
https://www.microjig.com/products/dovetail-clamps-2pk

Which I tried to use them but they didn’t fit. The “neck” where the horizontal and vertical part meets (the curve) didn’t want to go in the tracks. Nothing a couple of stroke with a file (on the clamp) won’t fix.

They’re not “rapid clamp” but since I have them I figured I’d use them.

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[Crazyraceguy]

[member=78111]sebr023[/member]  The point of the Rapid Clamp is for situations where the regular track clamps will not fit, for whatever reason.

 

[sebr023]

[member=78111]sebr023[/member]  The point of the Rapid Clamp is for situations where the regular track clamps will not fit, for whatever reason.

Oh gotcha! Cause it clamp from the “front” and “back” rather then from the bottom of the piece.

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[Coen]

I wanted to buy that rapid clamp, years and years ago. I tried it in the store first and I found it just wandered too much because the end was too flexible and too rubbery. I didn't buy it and still did plenty of bevel cuts.
But when you can't access below the material you want to cut the rapid clamp is a nice way out.

The Festool catalog is full of nice stuff with cryptic descriptions..

That can be an issue, but it's not that bad in practice. You also have to be careful about overtightening. This can cause the track to bow upward at the ends. The other thing is that they absolutely should not be used on connected tracks, for hopefully obvious reasons.  [unsure]
It's another one of those "I don't need it often, but when I do, there isn't a better alternative"

In videos I’ve seen people use dovetail clamp under their tracks to clamp it.

I have those:
https://www.microjig.com/products/dovetail-clamps-2pk

Which I tried to use them but they didn’t fit. The “neck” where the horizontal and vertical part meets (the curve) didn’t want to go in the tracks. Nothing a couple of stroke with a file (on the clamp) won’t fix.

They’re not “rapid clamp” but since I have them I figured I’d use them.

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If they are really dove tail... don't use them on the rails.

 

[sebr023]

[mention]Coen [/mention]  why?

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[squall_line]

If they are really dove tail... don't use them on the rails.

Why?

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The profile isn't the same between rail clamps and dovetail clamps.  You'll bend the rail profile or worse.  Track down (no pun intended) some rail clamps, either Festool or Bessey if you want the ratcheting version, or the screw-type version (I have Festool, Bessey, and PowerTec for screw-style rail clamps).

 

[Coen]

Ah yes I forgot to answer. Because the Festool clamps have a notch. The dove tail ones spread out the groove, the Festool clamps don't

 

[sebr023]

If they are really dove tail... don't use them on the rails.

Why?

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The profile isn't the same between rail clamps and dovetail clamps.  You'll bend the rail profile or worse.  Track down (no pun intended) some rail clamps, either Festool or Bessey if you want the ratcheting version, or the screw-type version (I have Festool, Bessey, and PowerTec for screw-style rail clamps).

Yeah, that what I figured. Didn’t use them when I noticed they didn’t fit.

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[Coen]

Yeah dovetail groove and T groove are different systems.

The T-clamp in a T-groove will only put put the metal under the sides of the T under compression, and perhaps slightly elastic bend the flat stuff next to it. If you fit a dovetail clamp in there there the edges of the T meet the angled part of the dovetail clamp, the dovetail clamp will exert, due to this small angle, a multiple of the downward force in sideways spreading force and you might end up ruining the sharp aluminum edge of the T track plus widening the whole slot.

 

[sebr023]

Yeah dovetail groove and T groove are different systems.

The T-clamp in a T-groove will only put put the metal under the sides of the T under compression, and perhaps slightly elastic bend the flat stuff next to it. If you fit a dovetail clamp in there there the edges of the T meet the angled part of the dovetail clamp, the dovetail clamp will exert, due to this small angle, a multiple of the downward force in sideways spreading force and you might end up ruining the sharp aluminum edge of the T track plus widening the whole slot.

Aaaahh! That make a lot of sense!! Thank you very much

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[jujigatame]

So, I've had a TS 55 for about 15 years now, it was my first Festool purchase, and I have always loved it.

I just upgraded to a 60.

Wow.

I was calibrating it and I made the first cut through 3/4 maple plywood. I thought something was wrong with the saw and that the blade didn't drop or wasn't attached correctly. It didn't sound or feel like it cut at all. There was absolutely no resistance. The motor didn't strain in the least. I really, really thought the blade didn't contact the wood.

But it DID cut, beautifully.

This saw is amazing.

I was literally speechless when I saw the cut.

 

[sebr023]

So, I've had a TS 55 for about 15 years now, it was my first Festool purchase, and I have always loved it.

I just upgraded to a 60.

Wow.

I was calibrating it and I made the first cut through 3/4 maple plywood. I thought something was wrong with the saw and that the blade didn't drop or wasn't attached correctly. It didn't sound or feel like it cut at all. There was absolutely no resistance. The motor didn't strain in the least. I really, really thought the blade didn't contact the wood.

But it DID cut, beautifully.

This saw is amazing.

I was literally speechless when I saw the cut.

My first cut was through melamine for a finishing panel in a laundry room.

Other than the noise I wasn’t familiar with, it did cut beautifully, I couple of “splinter, but it is Melamine after all.

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