New Ts 75 not cutting Plumb.

KScott25

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Feb 5, 2016
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I don't know if I'm I'n In the right place or not. I just bought a ts 75 to help speed up production. I squared the blade up, checked it with 3 different squares and all say it's square. I noticed the track does rock back and forth, just ever so slightly the grip strips appear to be a little higher than the bottom of the track. So I held the track down and checked it with a square and it says the cut it still off. So DO I just abandon Squaring it to the saw and square it to the rail. It seems for $750 I should be able to square it to the base. Maybe I'm just having a DUH moment, any help would be greatly appreciated.

  Thankyou
 
By not square do you mean the cut is not plumb (90 degree), or that the saw is skewed slightly out of parallel with the track?

This may sound like a dumb question, but have to ask -- did you tighten the green knobs to eliminate the slop between the saw and the rail?

As far as the grip strip goes, it's normal for it to be slightly proud, so that the rail grips the workpiece when the saw is riding over it.  The rail should sit flat when pressure is applied.

If what you're talking bout is a cut that is not plumb, then it may be an issue of the bevel stop at 0 degrees being slightly off.  These are normally perfect out of the box, so if you don't feel like trying to adjust it yourself (there are procedures for this in the Supplemental manual I believe:http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/TS_55_EQ_US.pdf  oops, no supplemental for the TS75, only the 55), then you can have festool service recalibrate it for free.

EDIT: Welcome to the FOG btw.
 
My Bad I meant not cutting plumb, Yes I tightened the green knobs. The rail does sit flat with weight on it.
 
[member=60258]KScott25[/member]

Got it.  I guess you want to do a couple of tests to see if you can completely rule out user error. 

So check whether the out of plumb cut is consistent all the way through the cut, or just in certain spots, like the front or the back.  It's sometimes the case, since the TS75 needs more overhang than its smaller cousin, that one leaves too little rail overhanging at the beginning of the cut, so the initial plunge goes directly into the workpiece, which can introduce a bevel.

Body and hand positioning can also be an issue, so make sure your weight and/or grip is not pulling the saw to the left or right as you're making your cut.

Maybe also see if you can get a true 90 cut by changing the bevel ever so slightly (when changing the bevel it's good practice to lock down the back knob first, then the front).  If that solves the issue, then your stop is probably not calibrated properly, and so you should adjust it accordingly.
 
The out of Plumb cut is all the way through the board, I put the saw back to factory, Now it cuts a little closer to 90 degrees. (for some reason my brain said put a square on blade.) But now the blade is not square once again with the base. I Made sure I had plenty over over hang 16 inches or more on each side. So Now its just a guessing game to get it to cut perfect because I can't square it off the base.
 
baby steps....

Chuck the rail to the side.

Does the saw cut straight on bare wood?
If so: Then it is something about the rail.
Of no: Then get the saw cutting square.
 
Can you check that the saw base os perfectly flat This sounds like the based is deformed/warped some how.

Also .. do you know anyone else with a TS that can come along and make a cut on your rail to eliminate that as an issue?
 
I have a dumb question.  Their is a green thing on the blade side of the saw to prevent rocking and causing the saw to cut level. Push it down on the stack and cut.

Have you used that and is the know tight when you make your cut?
 
Cuz that's what it's for. I had that issue before. I had to adjust the stops to ensure it was cutting at 90 then replace and adj the green the and it worked great after that.

Also technique could be a issue you could be pulling it to one side
 
I don't know why he wrote yes lol. A green thing on the blade side? I haven't had a chance to play with more. I base appears to as flat as can be so I re squared. I'm Left handed so maybe it is my form. I gonna go in the shop today and play around with it  and let you guys know. I appreciate the responses.
 
Well I called festool and they told my I shouldn't square it to the base. I should keep making cuts and square its to the cuts, I Just assumed it should be squared to the base.
 
KScott25 said:
Well I called festool and they told my I shouldn't square it to the base. I should keep making cuts and square its to the cuts, I Just assumed it should be squared to the base.

So off the rail you recalibrate it again?
Are the rails all the same? Or do square it for each rail?
 
Holmz said:
It still begs the question as to whether one needs to recalibrate when using the saw "off the rail".

I suggested doing that square check because it eliminates operator cutting technique. I would have thought the blade would be square to the base AND the rail, so no recalibration needed for off-rail cutting.

If the blade is square to the base, but not the rail I would be checking if my rails are cupped or not sitting flat for some reason.

 
KScott25 said:
I don't know why he wrote yes lol. A green thing on the blade side? I haven't had a chance to play with more. I base appears to as flat as can be so I re squared. I'm Left handed so maybe it is my form. I gonna go in the shop today and play around with it  and let you guys know. I appreciate the responses.

I'm a leftie .. no issue here!
 
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