No. 7 vs. No. 8 jointer

ear3

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Now that I've gotten comfortable with the jack plane, I'm thinking of adding a jointer.  This will help in the near future for flattening the revamped workbench I'm planning.

So I was just wondering what people think about the no. 8 jointer, and whether there are substantial benefits to the extra two inches of sole length and the wider blade.  I was initially just thinking the LN no. 7, with the added benefit that I could share frogs with the 4 1/2, and so not have to get multiple high angle frogs.  But since I have the jack plane, I'm wondering if there might be more redundancy getting the no. 7 vs. the larger no. 8.  Or does the size of the no. 8 make it more difficult to use on tasks like jointing the edge of 3/4" boards?
 
I use the Lee Valley jointer plane which is the same length (22 in.) as the LN #7, but has a wider blade.  The LN #8 is another 2 inches longer (and two pounds heavier).  I think any of the three would be excellent for flattening a workbench.  I used mine to flatten a dining table 40 inches wide and 8 feet long.

As to straightening the edge of a board, I really like the optional fence on the Lee Valley which descends below the sole at a 90 degree angle.  It gives you an edge in keeping the edge square.

The LV would save you a few bucks.

I would suggest that you get hands on with each of the three if possible.  The jointer is a bear and will give you a serious work out, so any ergonomic advantage is huge.

In any case, there's no wrong answer to the choice of any of the three. [big grin]
 
I'm a big fan of the no7.  I have a Stanley Bedrock 607 for years and it's awesome.  I put in an aftermarket blade and it works great.  I have seen a no8 and held it and it seems too big. 
 
I'll give an opinion.  The 7 is great at jointing boards and flattening tables.  But the 8 seems like it would be too long, too wide, too heavy for jointing boards.  Probably OK if all you were doing is flattening a table.  But all the "extra" is too much for detailed fine work like jointing edges and flattening surfaces less than a table top.  There are sayings like "More is better." and "Too much is never enough."  Something like that.  They aren't really true.  You can have too much of a good thing in some situations.
 
Lie-Nielsen #8 all the way -- the added length and mass is great for muscling through tough hardwood. Yeah it is 10 pounds, but it is very wide and very, very accurate. You can easily straighten 48 inch long boards with one and it is great for flattening one face of a board after you use a jack to knock high spots off. It is one of my favorite planes. I have had one for years and it is a joy to use every time I take it out...
 
In practical terms, the advantage of a #8 is when you are match planing thick board edges, but the #7 offers more benefits than the #8 most of the time. The frogs are interchangeable with the 4 1/2 and 5 1/2, it is wide enough and long enough for most jointing needs and works excellently on a shooting board. It's also lighter than #8.

I love my #7 but really only use it for edge planing. A 5 1/2 is my preferred plane for the final jointing of faces, and a jack plane for the rough preliminary work. Using a #7 for jointing faces is very tiring, and if you have winding sticks and a good straight edge, you don't need to rely on the length of a #7 to achieve a flat face.
 
Like Mr Ernsberger I too like the Stanley No 7. With a nice sharp iron it "sings" and that sound alone is so satisfying.

I used to use it a lot but manage now with my machines and so, about 2 months ago, I gave it to a woodworking apprentice that I met a few days earlier.

Peter
 
Thanks for the replies so far.  I guess I'm leaning towards the no.7, despite one full-throated endorsement of the 8.

I was considering the LV as well, but since they make a magnetic fence, I figure I could just add this to the LN jointer if I find it necessary.

BTW, I am discovering all of these muscles I don't get to use with power tools.  My right arm was quite sore after the first few workouts with the jack plane.
 
Edward A Reno III said:
BTW, I am discovering all of these muscles I don't get to use with power tools.  My right arm was quite sore after the first few workouts with the jack plane.

[member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member]

You should come up with a new exercise plan and do an infomercial.  Instead of T25, you could call it Insanity HT25.  [tongue]
 
Some of you are talking about flattening a 4' wide table.  I can barely reach half way across, let alone push a hand plane. [unsure]
Tinker
 
I have a bailey 7 and 8  both big old things.

Think I paid about 30 bucks combined for both. 

I couldn't fathom spending what they want for a new one from LN.
 
Tinker said:
Some of you are talking about flattening a 4' wide table.  I can barely reach half way across, let alone push a hand plane. [unsure]
Tinker
From time to time, I got down on the table with my knees so I could reach the middle spots.  Never said it was pretty or dignified. [wink]
 
I own a vintage #8 and the smaller 7.  While the 8 is easy enough to use and I love how its heft carries through a cut, remember that the wider blade can be troublesome to sharpen if you are previously set up with narrower stones or guides for smaller plane blades.  [embarassed]
 
I have the Lie-Nielsen #8 and I love it.  I have flattened a good number of rough sawn boards with it and I can honestly say it is an awesome plane.  There is no way you would ever regret that purchase.
 
Steve-Rice said:
I have the Lie-Nielsen #8 and I love it.  I have flattened a good number of rough sawn boards with it and I can honestly say it is an awesome plane.  There is no way you would ever regret that purchase.

Either one probably be an improvement over my ECE. So I cannot imagine someone would be kicking themselves either way.
 
WarnerConstCo. said:
I have a bailey 7 and 8  both big old things.

Think I paid about 30 bucks combined for both. 

I couldn't fathom spending what they want for a new one from LN.

[member=3891]WarnerConstCo.[/member] if you call them big,  they gotta be BIG ::)
Tinker
 
Tinker said:
WarnerConstCo. said:
I have a bailey 7 and 8  both big old things.

Think I paid about 30 bucks combined for both. 

I couldn't fathom spending what they want for a new one from LN.

[member=3891]WarnerConstCo.[/member] if you call them big,  they gotta be BIG ::)
Tinker
. True.... [wink]
 
I pulled a job over the weekend and got some extra $$$ coming in so I've decided to go with the no.7.  I briefly considered the bevel up jointer, but I've notice doing jointing operations with the BY jack that sometimes the plane wants to lift off the board towards the end of the cut, so I figured the extra mass and more top heavy profile of the no. 7 jointer will ensure the plane hugs the board all the way through.
 
Got this in the mail today, and I am taking it for a test drive. I have to adjust to the bevel own Style, this is my first bevel Down plane outside of a cheap Buck Brothers unit I picked up at Home Depot many years ago.

One Note, I found that paraffin wax on the bottom really helps on the jointet, especially when entering the cut. In an attempted Edge jointing operation I found some chatter at the beginning of the cut. But once I wax the bottom it was silky smooth. Also will probably help when I hone the blade razor sharp -- I just wanted to see how sharp it was out of the box  (very sharp).
 

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