No depth stop feature on vecturo plunge

fesfrank

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May 16, 2010
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Why isn't there a depth stop that can be used with the plunge base.  The only reason i bought it was for this plunging and cut depth controlling accuracy.  I came up with an idea based off of the packing plastic tube which comes with the domino xl.  Its the opaque plastic piece which affixes to one of the rails in order to hold it in the retracted position.  What I'm going to do is buy a piece of plastic tubing and cut it to desired length depending on desired depth of cut.  I will cut along it and remove a section in order to snap plastic over one of the plunging rails.  So now the Vecturo will plunge to desired depth with ease.  Don't know why they didn't think of this....  strange, unless they come out with another attachment to go in the ends of the rails later...    Let me know your thoughts..  thanks in advance.  JFit
 
Where will you use the depth stop?  You want both a vertical controlled plunge and a depth stop.  Just curious as to the application you are thinking about?

You could probably get a small adjustable hose clamp and put it on the chrome rail and adjust it that way, which would be easier than making multiple of the clips.  Or cut the piece of PVC tubing in half and about 1/2 inch long and then clamp it in place with an adjustable hose clamp.

That might work, but I'm wondering about the application.

neil
 
neilc said:
Where will you use the depth stop?  You want both a vertical controlled plunge and a depth stop.  Just curious as to the application you are thinking about?

You could probably get a small adjustable hose clamp and put it on the chrome rail and adjust it that way, which would be easier than making multiple of the clips.  Or cut the piece of PVC tubing in half and about 1/2 inch long and then clamp it in place with an adjustable hose clamp.

That might work, but I'm wondering about the application.

neil

? any application in which the first layer of material is to be cut but not the second…
 
Hmmmm, seems like you came up with your own depth stop without a whole lot of trouble.

Looking at it another way; Routers have been around for how many years? Yet every year (month?) we see new attachments, options, doo-dads, whatever to make them work better. With all due respect, why is it that we seem to expect Festool to deliver a new product with every feature we could ever imagine built in and perfected on day one of delivery? Why didn't Henry Ford start with Taurus, oh, excuse me, the Fusion?

 
greg mann said:
Hmmmm, seems like you came up with your own depth stop without a whole lot of trouble.

Looking at it another way; Routers have been around for how many years? Yet every year (month?) we see new attachments, options, doo-dads, whatever to make them work better. With all due respect, why is it that we seem to expect Festool to deliver a new product with every feature we could ever imagine built in and perfected on day one of delivery? Why didn't Henry Ford start with Taurus, oh, excuse me, the Fusion?

Because its not a new product…?
 
I would have absolutely thought the plunge for the vecturo would have a depth stop. In reading this I came up with 4 instances that I would use monthly. But that not what my comment is here for.

My addition was on the idea of adding plastic to the rail similar to the domino xl and senica adapter for modified depth stop. My idea would be to do multiple colors in different sizes per color. 1/4" 1/2" 1". i don't know the diameter of the rail but imagine some pex in white red and blue that could make any depth in 1/8" increments.

I still use that noise orange one.... (which my father recently refereed to as the wien)
 
Made a .25" wide cut along the length of .5" PVC pipe and then cut it to various common lengths.  Now I have pre-made depth stops.  Works great.  Although, smaller diameter pipe would fit better.  I think clear tubing might work and would fit tighter. 

I have already used the Vecturo quite a bit for drywall and Gladiator slat wall panels.  Sure does make it easy.

One of the walls where I installed the Gladiator slat wall had a water pipe elbow that stuck out about .25" from the wall making the Gladiator panel not fit properly.  I used the depth stops on the Vecturo plunge base to mill out a .25" deep, 2" x 2" well on the the back of the panel to accommodate the pipe elbow.  Took seconds to do.  Panel lays flat now.
 
I don't see the point of a depth stop on the vecturo, its not a tool for fine joinery. 

The post before this, you would have been done twice as fast by using a forstner bit. 
 
WarnerConstCo. said:
I don't see the point of a depth stop on the vecturo, its not a tool for fine joinery. 

The post before this, you would have been done twice as fast by using a forstner bit.

Wrong.  Twice as fast as a few seconds?  I already had the Vecturo out and in use.  I don't have a 2" forstner bit.  How would I control the depth of a 2" forstner bit in a hand held drill?  What would have kept the center point of the forstner bit from poking through the finished side?  How would I move a smaller forstner bit over the 2" x 2" area without rocking the bit and still keep a consistent .25" depth?  Sometimes it makes more sense and is faster to use what you already have in your hand rather than stop and rig up something else.  I also needed to cut square holes for light switches.  Vecturo worked great for that.  Using a drill, drill bit, and jig saw would have taken a lot longer to cut the square hole. 
 
RLJ-Atl said:
WarnerConstCo. said:
I don't see the point of a depth stop on the vecturo, its not a tool for fine joinery. 

The post before this, you would have been done twice as fast by using a forstner bit.

Wrong.  Twice as fast as a few seconds?  I already had the Vecturo out and in use.  I don't have a 2" forstner bit.  How would I control the depth of a 2" forstner bit in a hand held drill?  What would have kept the center point of the forstner bit from poking through the finished side?  How would I move a smaller forstner bit over the 2" x 2" area without rocking the bit and still keep a consistent .25" depth?  Sometimes it makes more sense and is faster to use what you already have in your hand rather than stop and rig up something else.  I also needed to cut square holes for light switches.  Vecturo worked great for that.  Using a drill, drill bit, and jig saw would have taken a lot longer to cut the square hole.

It's easy, I do it all the time. I can consistently drill holes with a forstner bit to the same depth, do it all the time in ipe for plugs to go it.  You can also over lap holes with a forstner bit, thats one of the things they were designed for. 

I never mentioned a jigsaw. 

Maybe I am just really good at using tools.
 
WarnerConstCo. said:
RLJ-Atl said:
WarnerConstCo. said:
I don't see the point of a depth stop on the vecturo, its not a tool for fine joinery. 

The post before this, you would have been done twice as fast by using a forstner bit.

Wrong.  Twice as fast as a few seconds?  I already had the Vecturo out and in use.  I don't have a 2" forstner bit.  How would I control the depth of a 2" forstner bit in a hand held drill?  What would have kept the center point of the forstner bit from poking through the finished side?  How would I move a smaller forstner bit over the 2" x 2" area without rocking the bit and still keep a consistent .25" depth?  Sometimes it makes more sense and is faster to use what you already have in your hand rather than stop and rig up something else.  I also needed to cut square holes for light switches.  Vecturo worked great for that.  Using a drill, drill bit, and jig saw would have taken a lot longer to cut the square hole.

It's easy, I do it all the time. I can consistently drill holes with a forstner bit to the same depth, do it all the time in ipe for plugs to go it.  You can also over lap holes with a forstner bit, thats one of the things they were designed for. 

I never mentioned a jigsaw. 

Maybe I am just really good at using tools.

You stated that the forstner bit could have done the same job in half as much time.  I pointed out why that was not true, but you did not respond to all of the reasons why I did not use a drill and forstner bit.  I would have been finished before you even had the forstner bit out and chucked in the drill.
 
1. What would keep the center point of the forstner bit  from poking through? 
2. Why would I stop what I was doing and go through the trouble of getting another tool and drill bits out and setting it up when I was already using a tool that could easily do the job in a matter of seconds? 

The jig saw was mentioned to point out that the Vecturo could do everything I needed to do without using any other tools.
 
It's precise enough for me, but I guess Warner is not that good at using tools after all.
[poke]
 
Dovetail

The vecturo plunge base has a magnetic face to hold e long blade flush.  You should be able to line it up on a line and do a precision plunge.  I used one against a guide rail and was able to go along a straight line easily.  With any multi tool, you have to watch burning and speed.

Neil
 
Dovetail

The Vecturo stop will fit the Supercut. Search the forum here for Supercut Plunge Base and you can see photos.

Neil
 
To make a precise cut, turn the speed down and use a straight edge.  You should be fine.  Maybe even clamp the plunge base down.  At speed 6 it can vibrate off  course even with the plunge base.

There is still a lot of room for manufacturers to come up with job specific blades and attachments for these tools.  I see a lot of untapped potential.
 
Whenever cut placement was paramount I would start the cut with a segmented curved blade and then finished up with the regular blades.  The curved blade doesn't bounce as much as the regular ones.
 
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