Non Slider Miter Saw (IMHO)

[Owego]

All of us put a premium on miter saw accuracy but I've seen little interest in "non-sliders" (probably because there are so few available). I've got a 9 year old Bosch 4212L 12", dual bevel that's dead on 90/90, and 45/90, and leaves virtually perfect faces for mating miters.  I weighs a ton and I avoid moving it out of the shop.  The great advantage of this type of saw is that it has none of the wiggle inherent in sliders.  With a 12" blade it can cut 2"x8" stock (flat), a 4x4, or crown molding (per manual); not quite the range of a 10" slider but pretty close.

 

[Kev]

small boy that got lost in a forest and found a giant ...

I love this game [wink]

edit:

... this doesn't really work now you've fixed your post

 

[jaguar36]

I've got a Dewalt DW715 that I like quite alot.  I find it to be easier to move than the Kapex as its lighter and has a better handle.  The Kapex does cut a somewhat wider board, but the DW715 will handle a 2x8, and I don't frequently have need of more than that.  I've also got a white light guide on it, which I like better than the Festool lasers.

The Dewalt is pretty accurate, plenty for crown molding.  The only time I've wished for more accurate cuts was when I've done some box tops and picture frame type stuff.

Best of all its only $200.

 

[justinh]

I use a fixed saw vs a sliding any time it's practical. They have fewer moving parts. They're easier to adjust. They have less chance for deflection. They're smaller. They're lighter and they're less expensive.  If I have to cut compound miters or lay the saw down to make a cut I switch to a scms.  The approach angle of the blade on a fixed saw offers too much chance for the blade to deflect regardless of the blade used.

I use a DW716. It's a simple and durable saw that can be set up very accurately and it hold the set up very well.  With it's vertical capacity for base and crown it will handle just about any cut one would need to make on a normal trim job. 

 

[#Tee]

get the slider already

 

[justinh]

get the slider already

For most jobs they're simply not needed.  A basic trim package  I see is usually 3 1/2"-4 1/4" casing (larger is usually a built up), 5 1/4"-6" base (larger is common but is often a built up), and a 4 1/4"-6" crown with larger usually being a built up.  All are within the in position cutting range of a fixed saw (DW716}.  The only places that I typically use a scms interior are on stairs for either newel notching/treads/wall caps or on closet shelving.  On exterior trim I usually bring out an scms.

All you gain with a slider is cross cut capacity.  To get vertical capacity with it you have to go to a 12" scms and deal with the awkward size and weight of the tool. 

 

[JimD]

I find non-sliders to be readily available.  I use a dual bevel 12 inch Hitachi, mostly in the shop with my RAS beside it for the cuts wider than about 9 inches.  Works fine and permits a much narrower cabinet than a slider would.  My RAS is an expensive and light Ryobi and has at least as much flex as a decent slider.  But with the right technique, it cuts accurately.  I suspect sliders are similar.  You can push them into inaccuracy but used right, they should be fine.  But a non-slider will do a lot of work. 

Another combo that would work well on-site would be a 12 inch CMS plus a track saw with a MFT or Paulk style work table.  Wider crosscuts go to the track saw. 

 

[#Tee]

the non sliding action dulls blades fast. i use my non slide 10in dewalt for rough cuts and rustic furniture. . just hold out and never get the slider. you only live,use tools and build once.

 

[justinh]

the non sliding action dulls blades fast. i use my non slide 10in dewalt for rough cuts and rustic furniture. . just hold out and never get the slider. you only live,use tools and build once.

Edge life is more a function of grind type, grind quality, type of carbide, tooth count, type of material being cut, volume of material being cut, cutting technique, tool set up, and cleanliness of the blade.  If you decide to use an H-ATB grind to cut everything or start cutting wood with a TC grind you will get poor edge life .  If you are running low quality blades you will toast edges quickly.  Their carbide is often either too brittle or of poor quality and the grinds are imprecise. If you are running a tooth count that is too high for the material being cut the heat build up will dull the blade prematurely.  If you are cutting very dense material with the wrong grind edge life will be shortened.  If you are forcing a blade through a cut  the additional heat generated will dull the blade quickly.  If there is a mechanical problem with the saw that affects cutting it can shorten blade life.  I recently retired my 10 yr old 716 for a new one because of excessive wear and flex in the trunnion.  The extra slop caused a pinch on the right hand miter generating too much heat when making a cut.  If you don't clean the pitch build up off the teeth cutting will generate excessive heat and it kills the edge.

I own 2 10" and one 12" sliding miter saws in addition to the fixed miter saw.  I run premium quality industrial blades and use the correct blade and tooth count for the material being cut and the finish required.  I obsessively keep my blades clean.  My saws are routinely checked for setup problems and I go as far as tuning the blades to the arbor to minimize runout.  The only difference in the edge life on tooling I run in any of my saws is based on cutting volume.  I use the fixed miter saw a lot more so consequently the blades I prefer to use will require sharpening more often.

 

[Hurricane Whisperer]

the non sliding action dulls blades fast. i use my non slide 10in dewalt for rough cuts and rustic furniture. . just hold out and never get the slider. you only live,use tools and build once.

Edge life is more a function of grind type, grind quality, type of carbide, tooth count, type of material being cut, volume of material being cut, cutting technique, tool set up, and cleanliness of the blade.  If you decide to use an H-ATB grind to cut everything or start cutting wood with a TC grind you will get poor edge life .  If you are running low quality blades you will toast edges quickly.  Their carbide is often either too brittle or of poor quality and the grinds are imprecise. If you are running a tooth count that is too high for the material being cut the heat build up will dull the blade prematurely.  If you are cutting very dense material with the wrong grind edge life will be shortened.  If you are forcing a blade through a cut  the additional heat generated will dull the blade quickly.  If there is a mechanical problem with the saw that affects cutting it can shorten blade life.  I recently retired my 10 yr old 716 for a new one because of excessive wear and flex in the trunnion.  The extra slop caused a pinch on the right hand miter generating too much heat when making a cut.  If you don't clean the pitch build up off the teeth cutting will generate excessive heat and it kills the edge.

I own 2 10" and one 12" sliding miter saws in addition to the fixed miter saw.  I run premium quality industrial blades and use the correct blade and tooth count for the material being cut and the finish required.  I obsessively keep my blades clean.  My saws are routinely checked for setup problems and I go as far as tuning the blades to the arbor to minimize runout.  The only difference in the edge life on tooling I run in any of my saws is based on cutting volume.  I use the fixed miter saw a lot more so consequently the blades I prefer to use will require sharpening more often.

I'm going with this post with respect to blade life performance and miter vs scms.