Not quite an owner. Yet.

[Harper_07]

I have been watching this and other forums for a month or so.  I am a hobbyist at best.  I have a very small area in our basement to do some wood working. Space and dust creeping into the rest of the house are my two biggest concerns. So I have landed at festools doorstep. I am thinking that my first purchase will be the ts55 and ct 26. 

Two questions:
1.  I am not concerned about capacity of the dust collector but rather it's ability to get as much of the fine dust as possible. Can I save a few dollars and get the ct mini or is there a noticeable difference in dust extraction by stepping up to the ct 26

2. I am postponing the purchase of an mft until funds are more readily available. Is this a mistake?  Will I be able to cut angles and squares with a speed square or some other method.

Projects on the horizon :
Storage cabinets for the garage
Wine racks
Wood puzzles/games
Basement bar
Built in China cabinet

 

[GPowers]

Welcome.

Your going to want the MFT/3 to square up your panels for cabinets etc... Very easy to use the parallel guides to break down the sheet goods in to long strips the correct width. Then you can use the MFT/3 to square and cut the panels to length.

I started with the CT22 because it has the HEPA filters. I have since added the Boom arm, which I never though I would buy, but it has turned out great. I think in the future I might get the Mini to move to the different areas out side of the workshop.

If you can go to the Festool Classes, GO. They have a great Cabinet building class, great instruction on the MFT/3 and cutting up sheet goods. I'am going to the Doors & Drawers class later this month in the Henderson facility.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

First,  [welcome].  You'll have to put a blindfold on so you can go through the whole hazing induction ceremony.

Good choice with the saw and vac.  I believe in HEPA filters so that's my advice for any of the CT's.  Since you're only working in the "shop", I'd advise the CT26 (comes with the HEPA filter) so there's less emptying and bag replacement, plus you can add the boom arm at a later date.  The MFT would make a great addition, especially since you'll get a better package price, but it's not absolutely necessary if you need to hold off on spending the extra money.  Think about getting some good quality squares (not a Speed Square) if you don't already have them and maybe a router with bits for some of your projects.  Don't forget plenty of clamps!

 

[pugilato]

I got the mini vac and it handles the dust real well, but the bag gets filled pdq.

 

[Harper_07]

Thanks for the recommendations. Sounds like I will be getting the ct 26.

I was under the impresion that the training classes in Vegas and indy were reserved for that that worked in the woodworking profession.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

I was under the impresion that the training classes in Vegas and indy were reserved for that that worked in the woodworking profession.

Open to anyone wanting to learn or just get their hands on the goodies.  [wink]

 

[fritter63]

You can do angles easily with adjustable gauge (attaches to the rail) in the accessory kit fairly easily. But at $200, your a good part of the way to an mft..,

Maybe you can buy it separately .

But, if I had it it to do over again and had limited space, I'd go Festool. You can do everything you need with the system, just takes a bit more time and jig ingenuity.

 

[ScotF]

Welcome to the FOG!  If you are getting the saw, it makes sense for the MFT/3 at the same time as that is the only way to get a package deal and save some money.  You can combine a different tool with the vacuum to get the best value.  I would suggest one of the larger vacs for shop use -- they are more powerful and the bags will fill slower.  The MFT/3 is my most used Festool, followed by the vacuum -- these two tools are also the central components to the system.

It is a slippery slope -- enjoy the ride!

Scot 

 

[AlexThePalex]

Can I save a few dollars and get the ct mini or is there a noticeable difference in dust extraction by stepping up to the ct 26

There sure is a noticeable difference between them, so get the 26.

 

[rmwarren]

I am postponing the purchase of an mft until funds are more readily available. Is this a mistake?  Will I be able to cut angles and squares with a speed square or some other method.

I am a hobbiest also and started this way with the TS 55 only (without even the dust extractor) and yes, you can get by. You do end up with some goofy set-ups of saw horses, benches, 2 by 4's, etc, it is awkward but it works.

I am somewhat of a recovering tool snob, for years I avoided new tools and sought old stuff at yard sales and sniffed at store-bought power tools preferring the old unisaw I had to spend 3 months refurbishing. Of course I had to make my work bench out of hard maple with an old fast-acting vise and bench dogs. I mean, who could possibly need an aluminum table with a bunch of holes in it, right?

Just last night I was sanding a small piece of steamed beach, using the MFT and the clamping thingies, and it struck me the I did not even have to set the sander down in order to reposition the wood, it was a one-handed operation. I started thinking "who would have ever thunk that a table with a bunch of holes in it would be so darned useful"?

My traditional bench is still the best for plaining and clamping stuff into a vise, like the bolt I had to hacksaw off. For cutting sheet goods, sanding, drilling, routing etc. I default to the MFT without thinking about it.

I guess I drank the koolaid, but I really have become a convert to Festool, and the system approach really, really works.

PS - consider the Ultimate Dust Deputy when funds allow, it is a great addition to the vacuum and eliminates the cost of buying disposable bags.

Oh, and welcome to the FOG.

RMW

 

[ccarrolladams]

I have been watching this and other forums for a month or so.  I am a hobbyist at best.  I have a very small area in our basement to do some wood working. Space and dust creeping into the rest of the house are my two biggest concerns. So I have landed at festools doorstep. I am thinking that my first purchase will be the ts55 and ct 26. 

Two questions:
1.  I am not concerned about capacity of the dust collector but rather it's ability to get as much of the fine dust as possible. Can I save a few dollars and get the ct mini or is there a noticeable difference in dust extraction by stepping up to the ct 26

2. I am postponing the purchase of an mft until funds are more readily available. Is this a mistake?  Will I be able to cut angles and squares with a speed square or some other method.

Harper, I agree that since you believe you should wait to buy the MFT/3, for you waiting is not a mistake. Of course the MFT/3 will speed up many tasks, but a whole lot of hobby users have found devoting some extra time to a project is not all that frustrating.

Since you are concerned about the most effective collection of dust, as a very experienced user of the TS55, I do have two suggestions, which will add slightly to the cost of your starter Festool system:

Buy the TS55 Cover Plate cat 491 750 shown at the bottom of page 53 as item 5 in the NA 2011-2012 catalog. This covers the port on the side used to access the arbor during blade changes. Under some sawing conditions a little dust can escape when this cover plate is not in use.

Try to trade the 27mm x 3.5m AS hose that comes with the CT26 for the 36mm x 3.5m AS hose. The dust collection is significantly better on the TS55 with the larger hose. My own experience for over 5 years has been that the larger hose is actually slightly less of a problem than the smaller one while the TS55 is being used on guide rails, especially when the Guide Rail Deflector cat 489 022 is used. Another benefit is that once you become experienced using the 36mm hose on the TS55, it will be second nature to you with such Festools as the OF1400 and OF2200 plunge routers where the 36mm AS hose is recommended.

To get you started breaking down 4' x 8' sheets, I recommend buying at least a second 1400mm (55") Guide Rail. One of those comes with the TS55 and that is the shortest rail you can use to cross cut a full 48" The second 55" rail and a pair of Rail Connectors (cat 482 107) creates a 110" rail needed to make 8' cuts. If there is any way to stretch your budget slightly, I sincerely recommend buying an additional 55" rail. This way you can use the third rail as a straight edge when connecting the other two. Also you will not need to disconnect the pair of rails to make 48" cuts.

My experience has been that as you start to build projects using your TS55, guide rails and your CT26, eventually you will decide the MFT/3 will improve your efficiency. But a single MFT/3 will not help you make 8' cuts to break down sheet material.

My own approach for years was to buy a sacrificial sheet of 4x8 18mm plywood which I supported on a pair of inexpensive saw horses. By clamping the rails to both the wood being cut and the sacrificial sheet, then only nicking the sacrificial sheet 1 or 2mm, no dust escapes from the bottom of the cut. Obviously to clamp the guide rails you will need at least a pair of Festool clamps. The basic and least expensive is the cat 489 570 120mm Screw Clamps shown on page 35 under item 3. The longer 300mm Screw Clamps cat 489 571 shown under the same item number are also very useful but slightly more expensive. Both of these style screw clamps are sold and priced as a set of two.

I personally also really like the Festool Quick Clamps cat 491 594. They are sold and priced individually. They have about 150mm capacity. They do cost more per pair than do the screw clamps. Certainly you can wait to buy Quick Clamps until you have the MFT/3. Those screw clamps are still very useful when you do buy the MFT/3.

 

[VictorL]

You might consider to buy slightly used saw and CT22/33. If condition is good it will last forever, but you'll save a couple bucks for more tools.

VictorL

 

[ccarrolladams]

You might consider to buy slightly used saw and CT22/33. If condition is good it will last forever, but you'll save a couple bucks for more tools.

VictorL

Victor L, you are absolutely correct.

Although I have added several more TS55 and CT22 to my equipment since I bought my first TS55 + CT22 combo in January 2006, both of those originals are still in daily use. That CT22 has required no service besides bag changes. It was that TS55 I took with me to the Henderson, NV cabinet class in November 2010. I wanted Steve Bace and Brian Sedgeley to teach me how to check and adjust the toe. This is the closest that saw has needed to come to being serviced besides being kept clean and having its blade changed as needed. By the way, it only needed a very slight toe adjustment after all those years.

Certainly, so long as you can try a used TS55 and CT22 before buying them, that can be a good savings. In 2007 the second TS55 I bought was being sold by the widow of a friend, along with the companion CT22. All my other TS55 I have bought new from dealers. In 2010, once the CT26 and CT36 became available in the USA I managed to by several used CT22 at decent savings. I also got a deal on a CT22 still in the carton. My reasoning was that by sticking to the CT22 I only needed to stock one kind of bag.

Then I sort of blew that concept when I bought a CT36, which is the vac we take on site for installs. It does not use very many bags.

 

[Jesse Cloud]

Excellent advice above!  Don't expect to save a lot on Festool by buying used, though.  They hold their value.

 

[Harper_07]

I understand that I can get a small discount on the ct when I purchase the ts. Will this also apply to the mft if I purchase it at the same time?

 

[irvin00]

From my experience as a hobbyst, I would like to say that you're better off considering a few important points: the TS55 is very nice for cutting down large panels, but you will definitely need a table saw. I wasted almost two years of my learning time trying to do without one. It is 'theoretically' possible, but you will work much harder, waste more material and get very sloppy results. Repetitive cuts, small cuts, ripping thin strips for veneering, etc., are operations that the Festool system is not very good at.

Do a google search for "table saw sled", "tapering jig", etc. to see what I mean.

Now, I'm NOT knocking down Festool or its quality - I have the TS55 along with the vacuum and I'm very happy with it. My only point is that for all its versatility, it is NOT a replacement for a table saw.

Good luck in your woodworking journey!

 

[VictorL]

I understand that I can get a small discount on the ct when I purchase the ts. Will this also apply to the mft if I purchase it at the same time?

You can get discount for MFT-3 + saw (TS-55/75) only. For vac you can get discount with sanders, saw, routers or planers. You'll get only one discount for MFT+3 + TS55 + Vac

Excellent advice above!  Don't expect to save a lot on Festool by buying used, though.  They hold their value.

You can find CT22/33 vac in decent shape for $350-400

 

[luns4d]

I have been watching this and other forums for a month or so.  I am a hobbyist at best.  I have a very small area in our basement to do some wood working. Space and dust creeping into the rest of the house are my two biggest concerns. So I have landed at festools doorstep. I am thinking that my first purchase will be the ts55 and ct 26. 

Two questions:
1.  I am not concerned about capacity of the dust collector but rather it's ability to get as much of the fine dust as possible. Can I save a few dollars and get the ct mini or is there a noticeable difference in dust extraction by stepping up to the ct 26

2. I am postponing the purchase of an mft until funds are more readily available. Is this a mistake?  Will I be able to cut angles and squares with a speed square or some other method.

Harper, I agree that since you believe you should wait to buy the MFT/3, for you waiting is not a mistake. Of course the MFT/3 will speed up many tasks, but a whole lot of hobby users have found devoting some extra time to a project is not all that frustrating.
...

A hobbiest as well, There is a lot to be said.  I got the TS55 and MFT.  When you get the MFT/3, you are going to also want to get the clamps, clamping elements, quawse (sp) dogs, and so on.  It is a great tool though.  Still using the old vac.  Seems like the CT 26 would be more of a completed deal, maybe.

 

[Julian Tracy]

One huge drawback to the MFT "GoldPlated" table that everyone here raves about is that you cannot really lower your blade into the table surface that much so if you do any cutting with Melamine board, you'd actually get cleaner reverse side cuts by cutting on a different work surface that you can lower your blade into a 3/4" or so .

I have the MFT and was testing the (3) 48 tooth blades I have just to sort of rate them for sharpness and to see if any needed a sharpening.  I found that only with the very sharpest blade was I able to get near chip-free cuts on the underside of Melamine board, but by lowering the blade depth to about 3/4" below the board, every blade gave me absolutely perfect cut quality on the underside.

That was quite the surprise, but it really makes the most sense as the teeth are cutting the lower surface from a higher angle compared to when the blade is only an 1/8" below the working board's thickness.

Takes some of the shine of it for me a bit - I do a fair amount of Melamine closet shelving and cabinets and getting chip-free cutsis paramount.

I know, now I'll get a lot of replies saying how other's get perfect cuts with shallow cuts - but the fact remains that by lowering the blade more you get perfect cuts ALL the time with any blade of a relative sharpness.

JT
Julian

 

[Ken Nagrod]

One huge drawback to the MFT "GoldPlated" table that everyone here raves about is that you cannot really lower your blade into the table surface that much so if you do any cutting with Melamine board, you'd actually get cleaner reverse side cuts by cutting on a different work surface that you can lower your blade into a 3/4" or so .

I have the MFT and was testing the (3) 48 tooth blades I have just to sort of rate them for sharpness and to see if any needed a sharpening.  I found that only with the very sharpest blade was I able to get near chip-free cuts on the underside of Melamine board, but by lowering the blade depth to about 3/4" below the board, every blade gave me absolutely perfect cut quality on the underside.

That was quite the surprise, but it really makes the most sense as the teeth are cutting the lower surface from a higher angle compared to when the blade is only an 1/8" below the working board's thickness.

Takes some of the shine of it for me a bit - I do a fair amount of Melamine closet shelving and cabinets and getting chip-free cutsis paramount.

I know, now I'll get a lot of replies saying how other's get perfect cuts with shallow cuts - but the fact remains that by lowering the blade more you get perfect cuts ALL the time with any blade of a relative sharpness.

JT
Julian

That makes sense.  I've yet to try the Freud blades for the TS55.  Freud claims super clean cuts top and bottom, but that would be interesting to see whether they mean on an MFT where the blade is barely protruding or where the full depth of the teeth protrude.