NOVA Voyager DP

[Bob D.]

Today I was using the Voyager DP to drill some 1/4" holes in 1/2" steel plate.

I had the RPM set to 1000 and the drilling operation went fine, however as soon as I start the DP motor spinning (the controller is already on) my shop dust collector comes on. The DC is controlled by an iVac Switch and normally would receive start/stop signals from any of the iVac Tool Sensors in the shop.

But each time I started the DP motor the DC came on.

Wondering if anyone else with this combination has experienced the same problem.

I am going to contact iVac and Teknatool, no doubt they will each blame the other.

I have never had my NOVA DVR XP Lathe start the DC when I turn it on.

Same for my bandsaw which has the DVR motor conversion. I have been using that for
over a year an no problems. The lathe I have had for 8 years at least and no issues until
the Voyager was added to the shop.

Might be related to the RPM of the motor. I was using the DP last weekend at 250 and
750 RPM and it didn't cause the DC to start. I have used the lathe and the bandsaw at
multiple speeds and never caused the DC to start.

 

[tdwilli1]

I kinda had the same problem. Only mine was turning on my DC when I just switched the Nova on (the upper paddle switch). I'm not sure what fixed it as I moved the Nova to a new spot and changed outlets. The Nova iVac switch was also being triggered when my CT would start.  [eek] So looking back it seems it might have been electrical interference from the outlet?

 

[Mini Me]

I am guessing they are both on the same circuit and when you used a different outlet it is now on a different one. Try using an extension cord to put it on a different circuit.

 

[Bob D.]

I am guessing they are both on the same circuit and when you used a different outlet it is now on a different one. Try using an extension cord to put it on a different circuit.

That's not it. The outlet the tools are connected to has no direct connection to the problem.

It is possible that if the iVac Tool and the Voyager were plugged into the same duplex receptacle that because of the close proximity of the two power cords the iVac Tool may be sensing the magnetic field created by the DVR motor and that is what is causing the dust collector to start. The DVR motor according to NOVA who wrote back to me about this problem does generate a stronger field than other types of motors.

In the response I got from iVac they said the iVac Tool sensors are by default set to be triggered by a 500mA current. The trigger threshold is adjustable from 500mA up to 5A.

So I have to do some more troubleshooting to determine which iVac Tool sensor is being triggered by the DP motor and then try adjusting the setpoint slightly higher until the DP no longer trips the current sensor in the iVac Tool.

On my bandsaw I need to adjust it regardless of the drill press problem because turning on the controller plus turning on the worklight that is part of the saw together draw enough current to trip the iVac Tool sensor. If I only have one of those turned on it's not enough to trip the sensor and start the dust collector, but together it is so I need to fix that separate from the DP issue.

 

[oldie]

Wonder if, to help with the trouble-shootinng process, it would worth trying a temporary 'Faraday-cage' around suspected culprits?

Richard (UK)

 

[Bob D.]

Maybe, I'm familiar with how they work but believe it's much easier to just unplug the 5 iVac Tool sensors and then bring them back in one by one to find the culprit. Plus I don't add a new variable to the mix by introducing a Faraday cage into the scene.

 

[Cheese]

In the response I got from iVac they said the iVac Tool sensors are by default set to be triggered by a 500mA current. The trigger threshold is adjustable from 500mA up to 5A.

Nice to know that's a feature on the iVac. I have the Lone Ranger system and I doubt it has that feature. I'd be interested in a photo when you crank up the threshold on the iVac.  [smile]  I wonder how it's adjusted, a variable pot? a series of DIP switches? some other method?

 

[Bob D.]

According to their email yes it's a trim pot you can adjust it.

Here is a snippet about that from their FAQ page:

How much current does it take to trigger an iVAC Switch Box?
The original Switch Box had a trigger threshold of approximately 300 milliamps (0.3 amp).  This was later changed to 500 milliamps (0.5 amp) so that the Switch Box would work with power tools that would trigger the Switch Box to turn on the vacuum as soon as the tool was plugged in.  If your Switch Box has a serial number of C046201 or higher then it has the 500 milliamp trigger threshold.
https://www.ivacswitch.com/shopping-guide/faqs/

 

[Drich]

Just wanted to throw another option out there. I had the nova for about 4 months and just hated it.  I had a 18 year old delta that was variable speed that you turned a crank on the front like the 2800 powermatic.  I do a lot of drilling and taping with metal. Was thinking of getting a bench top mill but saw the nova and figured this Mike be a better solution. So I sold the delta and ordered up the nova.  Once I opened the box and put it together I was questioning my choice.  The castings are poor. The manual depth stop gauge was not readable. It took 3 months to get a new one for them. Customer service is terrible. The raise lower crank is in the way if you want to add a larger table for wood drilling.  I was trying to drill a 1/2 inch hole in steel and it was trip out with a over load code. They had me try some other settings and it never did work any better. So I sold it.  I just received the new Power matic 20" drill press.  Wow what a difference. It weights so much more. Very nice base and table. The crank for the rising of the table is great.  The work lights are very bright and they give you a fence for the table and it has the lasers. For a 300 more over the nova I feel it is a much better buy and machine.

 

[Bob D.]

Nice to know that's a feature on the iVac. I have the Lone Ranger system and I doubt it has that feature. I'd be interested in a photo when you crank up the threshold on the iVac.  [smile]  I wonder how it's adjusted, a variable pot? a series of DIP switches? some other method?

Well turns out I've had my system so long that I don't have the adjustable trigger setting, mine are stuck at 300mA. There is no adjustment on mine external or internal. I would have to change out a resistor on the PC board. That does not scare me, just need to experiment with different R values to adjust the timing. Or install a trim pot in parallel with R1 so I can vary R and adjust the trip current.

I solved the bandsaw problem by changing the light I use at the BS. I was using an adjustable lamp with a 100w equivalent CFL bulb, but that draws about 50 watts. The lamp current draw alone is enough to start the DC and with the BS motor controller turned on there is more than enough current to start the DC. So I changed out the CFL lamp for a new LED light with a magnetic base. It provides as much light in a much smaller package and uses very little power. SO now I can have the BS controller power on and the light and not start the DC.

The newer models have a trim pot accessible from outside, just remove a cover and adjust.

But more mysterious is why since that day it has not happened again. I tried using the DP at many different speeds and also loads, drilling in soft and hard wood and even steel thinking that as the load increased the drive would increase power to the motor creating a stronger field. But according to iVac my early unit are not affected by induced currents from magnetic fields at all. So it is a mystery as to what was causing the DC to start. If it happens again I will have to make note of the conditions. Until then I'll just keep using it and the DC.

It does run nice and smooth and plenty of power. I was drilling to tap some 9/16-18 holes in 1/2" 1018 steel and it purred right along. With no belts or pulleys the direct drive makes no vibration. You can dial it from 50 up to 3000 RPM and it's like the thing is not even running. just a slight hum.

One thing I have to get used to is not to forget to turn the power off when I'm done for the day. I walked in the shop this morning and the DP and BS were both on. When you turn off the motor you are not turning off all power to the tool so the motor controller stays powered up. Both have the same DVR motor as does my lathe.

Dirch I am sorry you had issues with your DP. While I have not had the problems you mention I too don't care for the table or the quality of the castings. I think I might have been better off buying a benchtop mill with a DRO in place of the Voyager since the Vulcan was not available. If I had done that I would have kept my old DP in the shop and added the benchtop mill which would cost only a couple hundred more than the Voyager. I may end up doing that, have to see how it goes with the Voyager for a couple months. My tech support and parts ordering from NOVA has been problem free so far, and that stretches back to when I bought the lathe over 8 years ago.

 

[Cheese]

Very interesting Bob but sometimes all this new info makes my head hurt.  [big grin]  It's just not fair being an older guy.  [smile]

9/16-18 is a strange size...

So does the Voyager have a function like the Tapmatic where it automatically reverses?  That's a $700-$1000 accessory just for that option.

The 50 rpm is a dream for working with steel.

 

[Bob D.]

9/16-18 is the thread size for my QCTP. Yes, the easy to set speeds are very nice. Not being limited to 12 or however many speeds is great too. Fully adjustable in 5 RPM increments from 50 to 3000. You can go into setup and set the top speed up to MAX which is 5000 if memory serves. I have not done that as I can't recall when I ever needed a speed over 2000.

Yes, it does have a tapping function and auto-reverse which can be used when drilling also. I have used the auto-reverse along with auto-start a number of times since I got the DP. Works well for repeat drilling operations. You can concentrate on positioning the work not flipping the power switch. Sounds trivial I know but I have found it beneficial when drilling a couple dozen holes the same size and depth.

There is a mechanical depth stop too if you don't want to mess with setting the digital depth stop which takes a couple steps to move between settings as you can't save a depth setting that I have found. The controller could benefit from another four buttons the functions of which should be user defined. So you could save a whole setup for a particular operation including bit type, material, speed, depth, etc. then go back to that with a single push of the button. This should also be held in NV memory so you don't lose those settings between sessions.

When you reach the set depth the motor stops, pauses for a second or two, then reverses at the same speed you have set for forward rotation. I usually set it deep enough to be sure the bit has fully exited the workpiece plus a tenth.

If you set your zero by bringing the bit in contact with the workpiece then for example on a 1/2" thick piece when the tip of the bit reaches 1/2" the motor will stop which is just as the tip of the bit approaches the underside of the workpiece, but you won't have completed the hole as the outer edges of the bit will not have completed cutting to the full depth. So I add some depth equal to the cutting angle of the bit which increases with bit diameter. For a Forstner bit or hole saw you just need a couple thou.

I have not tried the power tapping yet but I will. Maybe I should try on some hardwood first to get some practice in then move on to metal tapping.

 

[Cheese]

Thanks for the feedback on the Voyager Bob...

It seems to have a lot of bells & whistles that are not just gimmicks but are helpful features. The 5 RPM increments is impressive. I really like the digital depth stop.  [smile]

Now that they've sold a bunch of these things and I'm sure they're getting feedback, maybe they'll add the user defined buttons. That would be an excellent feature...bordering on mandatory. I'm still hoping they bring back the Vulcan.  [sad]

 

[Bob D.]

I was wanting the Vulcan, but as someone else on here had pointed out in this or another thread it's half of both worlds. Part DP and part mill. While it makes a killer DP it's kind of overkill for that application. Which may be why NOVA dropped it along with low sales volume. The Voyager has been out for a few years. The firmware updates have not really added much from what I can tell. They certainly can't add physical buttons which is what I was talking about. It is possible to define the four buttons to perform different functions. See the three pages form the manual that I included here along with the spec sheet.

I tried to upload the manual but it was rejected. It's only 2.3MB, is that over the file size limit for PDFs?