Of 1010 for hinges/lock plates.

Harry1561

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Joined
Aug 12, 2016
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Hi to the FOG
As a newcomer to festool, although a tradie for more years than l care to remember.l want to ask do any carpenters use the of 1010 for their door furniture or stick to a trimmer like l have used for years. I am looking at the 1010 against the of1400 but it's a lot of AU$$$ for a festool Router that might sit in the systainer more often than not unless it can be used for doors. I have an old makita 3600 that gets dusted off once in a while (and again after use  :P) The dealer near me does not have a of1010 in stock for me to get the feel of, so I thought I'd ask the question as the finger hovers over the "buy" button.
Thanks H
 
I use a 1010 routing out a lot hinges and lock plates and I really rate it. I have used a variety of 1/4 inch routers and laminate trimmers over the years, But the 1010 combined with a hoover is properly the best and you also have the flexibility of owning a very good router.

If you are going  to do a lot of doors I say get it but if it is only for a one off job  it would be hard to justify the price and if you are only going to use it for hinges and locks verutex  make a very good specialist hinge router

 
I don't think I've ever used my 1010 for hinges. I guess I could but haven't given it much thought. Same as Robert mentioned, If I were doing a lot of doors then I probably would. Routing hinges is usually an onsite task for me. 1 door here, 5 there, etc. I use either my PC or Ryobi, mostly the Ryobi, laminate trimmer and the Templaco templates for hinges. Fast, east, light, much easier to handle on a door edge. A small 'doesn't look like it will bring much money on the street' trimmer is also less likely to disappear from a job site.
Love the justification for buying another festool but I don't know that I would buy a 1010 for door hinges.
 
I've used my OF1010 a number of times for hinges but that's because I don't have a laminate trimmer. I'd have thought that a trimmer would've been lighter and maybe more pleasant to use if you were doing a lot of doors.....
 
I' like the dewalt 611 better.  For me the handle on the 1010 / 1400 is awkward on a vertical surface like a jamb.  I think the smaller base plate of the 611 is an advantage on the typical jigs in the USA.  No Idea what you've got for door templates down under so that would factor in as well.

It really boils down to feel in your hands though.  I really like the 1010 for edge work though.
 
I use a pair of PC 450's for hardware set up in plunge bases. The plunge makes depth setting easy.  The spring loaded turret stop on the 1010 is annoying.  With the hard turret on the 450 I don't need to check the depth of the router.  It's always right.  The DC is as good as the Festool on a template.
 
dewalt 611 = porter cable 450 and dust collection is pretty darn good.
 
antss said:
dewalt 611 = porter cable 450 and dust collection is pretty darn good.

Yup.  Went with the 450 because on a template with the shroud on the light doesn't do much good.  I have 3 of the 611's for edge work and they are great little routers.  They're good enough that I've pretty much forgiven B&D for discontinuing the PC 310.
 
I am making a keyboard cabinet and matching piano stool and am using the OF1010 for both hinges and trimming.

In this video you will see the hinge setting jig that I made up for the stool:


The hinge setting worked really well.

I have yet to finish the work on the main cabinet but when the video is published it will show the OF1010 being used with the edging plate to trim the extra meat from the solid wood edging of the plywood being used for the large fields of the cabinet. It has worked brilliantly and it is a very sturdy and easy to set up accessory for the OF1010.

I will publish the complete video series when the work is complete probably in 6 to 8 weeks time.

Peter
 
I have to agree with the guys on the PC/Dwlt,  they are cheap enough and have good dust collection for template routing...cheap enough that I leave the bits and guide bush on and in a systainer with the templates.
 
rst said:
I have to agree with the guys on the PC/Dwlt,  they are cheap enough and have good dust collection for template routing...cheap enough that I leave the bits and guide bush on and in a systainer with the templates.

I don't own these but I just looked at photos and don't see any capability for dust collection. Can you show me what I'm missing?

This must be it.
41YRh57ZWyL.jpg

Looks pretty good.   And cheap!
 
Thanks for the reply's to my question, all interesting answers. The Dewalt/PC seems to be the tool of choice in the US, l think l will  stick with the trimmer for door work, might even look for the Dw 611 (for dust collection)or the Australian market equivalent. l normally make my own templates so that's not an issue. I've got some kitchen remodeling work coming up in the new year so might revisit the 1010 then.
Thanks again
  Harry.

P.S
Peter, l will look out for your video when it comes out..

 
I stopped using my 1010 for door hinges when I bought a small makita trimmer. I didnt like leaving my 1010 laying on the ground while cutting hinges on site, lots of clumsy people on sites. Also the makita is one handed like the dewalt above so easy to use.
 
ThePC/DeWalt are made in the same Chinese  factory, only real difference is the DeWalthas an led.  Dust collection is actually quite good. 
I did three doors for my daughters bedrooms, minimal cleanup.  In regard to hanging these doors, there were no doors excepting the bath in this 1939 house  [eek].  When I routed the door jambs, I routed out fillers that were evidently installed in jambs that had be prepped...why no doors installed ???  [huh]
 
Same story as always re: doors [member=25351]rst[/member] - they ran out of $$$.  [wink]
 
Harry1561 said:
Hi to the FOG
As a newcomer to festool, although a tradie for more years than l care to remember.l want to ask do any carpenters use the of 1010 for their door furniture or stick to a trimmer like l have used for years. I am looking at the 1010 against the of1400 but it's a lot of AU$$$ for a festool Router that might sit in the systainer more often than not unless it can be used for doors. I have an old makita 3600 that gets dusted off once in a while (and again after use  :P) The dealer near me does not have a of1010 in stock for me to get the feel of, so I thought I'd ask the question as the finger hovers over the "buy" button.
Thanks H

For hinges I have been using a Virutex FR129VB for the last decade.  One of the biggest issues for routing narrow stock is having sufficient purchase to keep your tool from rocking.  I like the Festool routers for their slow start motors.  The 1010 is a very balanced router and is great for vertical work like doors etc.  I prefer my 2200 for most other serious routing.  It can work all day and I wear out before it gets warm.  In most cases, if you have only a few hinges to do at one time, it is quicker to place them on your stock and use your layout knife to score around the hinge leaf, then back cut with your sharp chisel.  That way you don't suffer from the vagaries of pencil lines.  It only takes a few mins to pair your rebate back with a good sharp chisel.  I install lock hardware every day, so I like using my two FC116U door mortisers, and they do both the pocket mortise and the face mortises.  It all depend on the quantity you have to do.
 
Harry1561 said:
For hinges I have been using a Virutex FR129VB for the last decade.  One of the biggest issues for routing narrow stock is h
aving sufficient purchase to keep your tool from rocking.  I like the Festool routers for their slow start motors.  The 1010 is a very balanced router and is great for vertical work like doors etc.  I prefer my 2200 for most other serious routing.  It can work all day and I wear out before it gets warm.  In most cases, if you have only a few hinges to do at one time, it is quicker to place them on your stock and use your layout knife to score around the hinge leaf, then back cut with your sharp chisel.  That way you don't suffer from the vagaries of pencil lines.  It only takes a few mins to pair your rebate back with a good sharp chisel.  I install lock hardware every day, so I like using my two FC116U door mortisers, and they do both the pocket mortise and the face mortises.  It all depend on the quantity you have to do.
Hi Xoncention, l use the same method as you with a trimmer and edge guide if only an odd door to hang and bring out the templates when there's doors for days !!!
 
Harry1561 said:
Hi Xoncention, l use the same method as you with a trimmer and edge guide if only an odd door to hang and bring out the templates when there's doors for days !!!

If you have a lot of doors to hang get yourself a doorminator - see  It makes material handling a lot safer.  Some of these fire doors are so heavy these days, that one person cannot safety do it on their own.  [scared]
 
That makes it look easy, could of done with one of those a few weeks ago,he's not sweating as much as l was either!!!!!!
 
Xoncention said:
Harry1561 said:
Hi to the FOG
As a newcomer to festool, although a tradie for more years than l care to remember.l want to ask do any carpenters use the of 1010 for their door furniture or stick to a trimmer like l have used for years. I am looking at the 1010 against the of1400 but it's a lot of AU$$$ for a festool Router that might sit in the systainer more often than not unless it can be used for doors. I have an old makita 3600 that gets dusted off once in a while (and again after use  :P) The dealer near me does not have a of1010 in stock for me to get the feel of, so I thought I'd ask the question as the finger hovers over the "buy" button.
Thanks H

For hinges I have been using a Virutex FR129VB for the last decade.  One of the biggest issues for routing narrow stock is having sufficient purchase to keep your tool from rocking.  I like the Festool routers for their slow start motors.  The 1010 is a very balanced router and is great for vertical work like doors etc.  I prefer my 2200 for most other serious routing.  It can work all day and I wear out before it gets warm.  In most cases, if you have only a few hinges to do at one time, it is quicker to place them on your stock and use your layout knife to score around the hinge leaf, then back cut with your sharp chisel.  That way you don't suffer from the vagaries of pencil lines.  It only takes a few mins to pair your rebate back with a good sharp chisel.  I install lock hardware every day, so I like using my two FC116U door mortisers, and they do both the pocket mortise and the face mortises.  It all depend on the quantity you have to do.
[/quote

Sounds like you spend a bit of time down at beyond tools.

The Virutex FR129VB is on my to buy list in the next couple of months while my 1010 is doing a great job I seem to be doing enough doors lately to justify the cost of a dedicated hinge router .
 
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