I was making drawers and was using the OF1400 with guide stops on the guide to put the dado for the drawer bottoms in the sides. With the deeper drawers I had no problem but, with the drawer that was 4 3/4" deep, the piece slipped under the guide rail when I got about halfway down the length of the side. I suppose it was because there was not enough wood under the guide rail (only about 4". So, the piece is ruined, but I still would like to know if there is a way to use the guide rail with the guide stop to cut the dado for the drawer bottom the same as I did with the deeper side and keep it in place so it doesn't slip. Maybe I just got carried away with how great the results were with the deeper side and should have picked another way to do this work.
OF 1400 Dado Using Guide Rail
- Thread starter grbmds
- Start date
Set up with an extra piece of same thickness material under the rail and butt the drawer part against it also adding one at the exit end of the dado keeps the drawer part from sliding forward as you push the router along. If you can find a way to clamp any or all pieces (especially the support pieces) that will make it even better.
Seth
Seth
Throwback7r
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Were you doing this on the MFT/3? If so just use the fence on the protractor head
It was on the MFT using the guide rail connected to the table. I was using Rip Stops so the two Incra tracks were already supporting the entry and exit areas. The guide rail was lowered so that it was touching the 3/4" Baltic Birch piece. Sorry I should have described better.
In that case I would still suggest using dogs or something to push the drawer part against in order to prevent slipping. Since you are not routing all the way through you could place a thin grip mat under the work piece.
Did it slip more towards the rail or away from the rail?
Seth
Did it slip more towards the rail or away from the rail?
Seth
SRSemenza said:
The piece was about 21" long (Baltic Birch ply). The side I entered on toward me moved away from the Rip Dogs as I got about 1/3 of the way into the length. The idea of setting it on a rubberized mat (like drawer liner) is a good one. Wouldn't the mat compress and the risk be that the depth of the dado wouldn't be consistent along the entire length?
It would be tough clamp without getting in the way of the router.
I think there is just not enough wood under the guide rail to hold it, but maybe taking several light passes to get the dado to depth would make it less likely to move.
Also, I have another problem since I ruined one drawer side. I can duplicate the size of the piece, but what about getting the Domino slots in exactly the right location?
Sparktrician
Member
grbmds said:
Piece of cake! If you use the same fence height setting and the medium width mortise setting you should be able to come reasonably close. If the registration pencil marks are still on the first one, use them to mark the new piece and go for it.
I didn't use pencil marks but an accessory jig. Still, good suggestion. I should be able to find the approximate center of each mortise and, with the next widest setting, get close enough that the extra play in the mortise will be sufficient. I wasn't worried about spacing top to bottom too much.
As for the other problem. It's possible that extending the MFT fence so it's just outside the bit (so I don't dado the fence) and taking 3 passes instead of just one, will do it.
As for the other problem. It's possible that extending the MFT fence so it's just outside the bit (so I don't dado the fence) and taking 3 passes instead of just one, will do it.
mouppe
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Have you considered double-sided tape to hold the piece in place? And the best way to get your dado depth spot on after using a router is with a router plane. If you don't have one, you can easily make one as detailed here.
http://paulsellers.com/2012/03/poor-mans-router-it-works/
http://paulsellers.com/2012/03/poor-mans-router-it-works/
Thanks for all the suggestions. In the end I used most of them together.
I cut a piece of rubberized drawer liner for underneath the wood.
I moved the fence on the MFT farther to the right to that the back end of the wood was supported a little more.
On my test piece I did the dado in 3 passes. In the end, this seemed to be a big factor. The router went through the plywood more easily; less heat on the bit. I was using cheap 1/4" Rockler bits I got along with some other jig I bought. The first bit broke after 5 cuts the doing it all in 1 pass. I doubt the second bit will break doing it in 3 passes.
I haven't yet actually done the Domino slots again, but I found that the centers were exactly 1" from each side so I should be able to duplicate the slots easily with my SCG-10 and, just to be sure, a wider slot.
So, thanks again. I think my mistakes were a learning experience and didn't really do any serious harm.
I cut a piece of rubberized drawer liner for underneath the wood.
I moved the fence on the MFT farther to the right to that the back end of the wood was supported a little more.
On my test piece I did the dado in 3 passes. In the end, this seemed to be a big factor. The router went through the plywood more easily; less heat on the bit. I was using cheap 1/4" Rockler bits I got along with some other jig I bought. The first bit broke after 5 cuts the doing it all in 1 pass. I doubt the second bit will break doing it in 3 passes.
I haven't yet actually done the Domino slots again, but I found that the centers were exactly 1" from each side so I should be able to duplicate the slots easily with my SCG-10 and, just to be sure, a wider slot.
So, thanks again. I think my mistakes were a learning experience and didn't really do any serious harm.
The double sided tape is a good idea.
If the grip mat is thin (thin shelf liner) it shouldn't compress much and with even down force I think it would work.
Plunge the domino into an existing mortise then set the fence to the reference surface. Easier to do if you clamp the piece down since it is sort of a three hand operation. After tightening the fence test plunge into the existing mortise a couple times to check it. If the bit slips in easily you should be right on target. I have done this several times and it works well for reset / recuts.
Seth
If the grip mat is thin (thin shelf liner) it shouldn't compress much and with even down force I think it would work.
Plunge the domino into an existing mortise then set the fence to the reference surface. Easier to do if you clamp the piece down since it is sort of a three hand operation. After tightening the fence test plunge into the existing mortise a couple times to check it. If the bit slips in easily you should be right on target. I have done this several times and it works well for reset / recuts.
Seth
SRSemenza said:
Wouldn't the double sided tape tear the surface of the MFT when I pull it off?
Anyway I think that the mat, the extra fence behind the back end of the wood, and taking 2 or 3 lighter passes will do the trick. At least the test piece I did worked fine. Using the same thickness setting and the same setting on the SCG should put the Domino in almost exactly the same spot. If I cut a the next wider mortise that should give it a little flexibility in case it's a little bit off. Thanks
If you're interested, I used a combination of your ideas to get the job done. On the replacement drawer side I cut the Domino mortises to match the old ones, routed the dado for the drawer bottom in 3 passes to get to the required depth. I used rubber draw liner underneath and supported the pieces in back a little more with the MFT fence. With the Rip Stops to hold the pieces at the right distance from guide rail I routed the dados with the OF1400 using the guide stops on the guide rail. The whole setup gave me accurate and dust-free results. I've never routed so dust-free.
One thing that shows it's good I don't do this for a living. . . timewise at least. I would go bankrupt. When cutting the new Domino slots I measured wrong and cut one about a 1/2" off. That led to learning how to use Dominos as plugs in their own slots. Lucky it was a drawer for a mobile work table in my workshop rather than fine furniture (although all of the fixes will be covered up and no one would be the wiser).
One thing that shows it's good I don't do this for a living. . . timewise at least. I would go bankrupt. When cutting the new Domino slots I measured wrong and cut one about a 1/2" off. That led to learning how to use Dominos as plugs in their own slots. Lucky it was a drawer for a mobile work table in my workshop rather than fine furniture (although all of the fixes will be covered up and no one would be the wiser).
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