OF 2200 and the CT MIDI

onocoffee

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Getting ready to use the OF 2200 and got to thinking - if it’s pulling up to 2200watts, can I still plug it into the CT? Or should it plug directly into its own outlet and circuit?
 
I've always plugged it into a separate socket just to err on the side of caution, figured why take the risk.
 
"They say" (but you know how that goes) that anything they make is ok to run directly through the CT. I ran my Triton router with my CT26 for a couple of years. Then I had a problem with the speed controller board, in the router. I got it fixed but never ran them together again. None of my other tools draw as much as that one, so I ran everything else just fine. It may have been unrelated, but I didn't want to take a chance.
 
Normal sockets here are rated 10A but with most breakers and cabling rated at 15A unless older wiring, so the OF2200 on it's own is almost 100% of the actual rated current draw.

But I thought the Midi's had an overload circuit that trips an inbuilt breaker if the draw is too high, or is that the new models as I don't recall that on mine?
 
There are lots of threads here about using the high amp tools with the various extractors and honestly, despite anything related to possible salesmanship, I suspect we would hear about considerably more tool burn up issues percentage wise than we do. Toss out the Kapex issue because that was not related to running it thru the dust extractor.

Peter
 
Normal sockets here are rated 10A but with most breakers and cabling rated at 15A unless older wiring, so the OF2200 on it's own is almost 100% of the actual rated current draw.

But I thought the Midi's had an overload circuit that trips an inbuilt breaker if the draw is too high, or is that the new models as I don't recall that on mine?
10A because you are talking about 240V. Here in the US, with our measly 120V, the typical lighting circuits are 15A and wall receptacles are 20A. They will be daisy-chained around the room though, so more things might share it.
A dedicated circuit (often called a home-run) is the best thing, for high draw machines.
In my space at the cabinet shop, I had 4 dedicated circuits, for just that reason.
My home shop is similar, only one has multiple receptacles.
 
But I thought the Midi's had an overload circuit that trips an inbuilt breaker if the draw is too high, or is that the new models as I don't recall that on mine?
I think that depends on what country it's sold in // what plug type it has.

The OF 2200 can potentially draw 20 amps at 110 vac (P=EI). Be sure that you're using it on a circuit that is using 12 gauge wiring and is on a 20 amp breaker. That said, I use my OF 2200 in a CMS most of the time and attached to my CT 22. I've never tripped the 20 amp breaker that supplies both.
What is the typical circuit impedance at the outlet over there?

The Belgians run 2,5 mm^2 (12 ga) with 20A breakers. But that is with 230V. So % drop is only half.
 
I think that depends on what country it's sold in // what plug type it has.


What is the typical circuit impedance at the outlet over there?

The Belgians run 2,5 mm^2 (12 ga) with 20A breakers. But that is with 230V. So % drop is only half.
That depends on the utility providing power. In the house I just sold, the typical voltage supplied was 123-124 vac.
 
That depends on the utility providing power. In the house I just sold, the typical voltage supplied was 123-124 vac.
That is something different than circuit impedance.

Compare;

1) Where I live (current century grid) ... if I pull 16A, the voltage drop as measured just above the meter is about 4 Volts (Let's say going down from 230 to 226). If you extrapolate... the maximum potential fault current will be (16 A*230 V / 4 V=) 920 A or a circuit impedance of (230 V / 920 A =) 0.25 Ohm

2) Where my parents live (1960's cabling) ... if I pull 16A there, the voltage drop just above the meter is about 10 Volts (Let's say going down from 230 to 220). If you extrapolate... the maximum potential fault current will be (16 A * 230 V / 10 V=) 368 A or a circuit impedance of (230 V / 368 A =) 0,62 Ohm

And that is something your home's internal wiring can't do anything about. That just comes on top of it, but with equal wiring it results in the fact that when using an electric kettle in combination with incandescent lights.. the brightness shift of the lights in 1) won't change very much when the kettle turns on or switches off while in 2) just the neutral getting pulled out of center has a bigger effect than the drop across both legs (L+N) in (1).

Now with demand peaks increasing (heat pumps, electric cars, electric cooking) while on the other side also supply peaks (solar panels) the grid operator has some issues keeping everyone within 230V (+/- 10%) at all times of the day. Especially when the grid impedance is so sh*t as in case 2). Solution in case 2) is obviously to upgrade Eisenhower-era cabling, but use of a adjustable transformer also works in some cases.

Oh; and about incandescent lights; the ones you use during the day in situation 2)... yeah; those don't last. At 250V they are very bright indeed and more efficient... power used goes up 18% at 250V compared to 230V, the filament temperature increases and the % that is output as visible light increases, so easily 40% more light... but that is paid for by longevity and the Halogen bulbs die very fast.
 
So, to see if there might be anything to add to the discussion, I rang up Festool USA Customer Service and spoke to one of their Technical Specialists and asked if there might be any issues running the OF2200 through the CT MIDI I? The answer was that all the CTs are designed to work with all their tools - whether the KS120 or the OF2200.

I know some of you have said there there have been board issues on the CTs when running heavier wattage tools, but I'm thinking that I still have two years on the MIDI warranty, perhaps I can give it a go and see what happens. If it blows up, then the warranty still applies (and I still happen to have the original box, oddly enough).
 
So is it only the Aussie models that have a breaker on the socket?

"Important Information Regarding Circuit Breaker Electrical Standard

Festool dust extractors are fitted with a circuit breaker for safety when a connected load of 1200 watts is exceeded.

Some tools that draw higher wattage can trigger the circuit breaker and if initiated requires the reset button above the socket to be pushed in and reset.

When requiring to use larger wattage tools with dust extraction it is recommended the tool is operated off a separate outlet and a Bluetooth system can then be used to switch the dust extractor on and off as required."
 
So is it only the Aussie models that have a breaker on the socket?
I think I have seen one more plugtype with that resettable breaker.

But I've ran my Metabo MFE-65 (2400W wallchaser) just fine from the socket on Festool CTL's (with Schuko). Go figure the start-up current and time on that thing when loaded with three 230mm diamond blades... the OF-2200 should be perfectly fine.
 
When you say "breaker on the socket", what does that mean in practice? Is there a physical breaker switch on the front panel by the socket? I don't recall anything like that on US CTs.

Even though it seems some have reported board issues, I'm leaning towards trying it with the MIDI since it still has two years on its warranty.
 
When you say "breaker on the socket", what does that mean in practice? Is there a physical breaker switch on the front panel by the socket? I don't recall anything like that on US CTs.

Even though it seems some have reported board issues, I'm leaning towards trying it with the MIDI since it still has two years on its warranty.
Our ones have a resettable breaker just above the pass through socket on the CT, so if you overload the socket with a tool rated too high for the outlet, just press it to reset.
 
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