OF1010 and CT Mini first impressions and questions

JimB1

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Jun 12, 2011
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So I finally got some time yesterday to try out my new OF-1010 and CT Mini. I thought I shoot some observations and questions out there.

Starting with the CT Mini, I am using the demo unit from Woodcraft while I am waiting for my new one to be shipped in so somethings may be due to the fact that I'm sure the demo has been used and abused.

Anyway, the very first annoyance is that it doesn't come with much by way of accessories. Even the Fein Turbo I comes with a crevice nozzle and a brush. Would it really break the bank to give you the $8 crevice nozzle with these vacs? Minor gripe and something I knew about prior to purchase but really it's a little irritating that to make this function as a vac I need to spend more. So since I need to clean up a little I used it without a nozzle. Suction was good and didn't letup much after using it to clean all the dust bunnies out of the corners of my shop. It's very quiet with the motor noise being much deeper then the usual shrill whine associated with shop vacuum motors. Very nice in my small basement shop. The wheels are well made with the front ones being a little small and prone to get caught on power cables or other debris on the floor however the low center of gravity makes it very tip resistant.

Now for use with the router, first issue, the plugged into the tool outlet the cable is very loose. Initially I couldn't get the router to power on plugged into the vac. I needed to jiggle the power cord and reseat it a few times and even then it was still pretty loose.

On the router, it's pretty straight forward on how to use everything after watching the guy at the demo do it and watching a few online videos. One thing that I found was that with larger bits like ogee or round overs,  you need to take the top off the dust extraction hood but once you do that, dust collection gets much worse. I was able to keep that top on by plunging and locking the base before putting the larger bit in but then it's difficult to tighten the collet and your depth of cut is very limited.

The chip collector helps a great deal with the dust collection on edge routing. My one gripe with it is if they aren't going to make the chip collector installation a tool-less install, at least give you the torx you need to change it out. I had to do some digging in my toolbox for the right size because I just don't use torx screws all that much that I keep the drivers handy. Again, it's like a dollar at Harbor Freight for a torx driver to fit this. Would it kill them to just include it? Or better yet, just make it tool-less like the 1400? Depth stops are pretty standard, nothing to see here. Sliding action was nice and I like the trigger but I kept hitting the trigger lock so when I let go of the trigger expecting the router to stop, it would keep spinning until I hit the trigger again. That might just be a matter of getting used to the hand placement.

So I did a quick sign with it. The first routed sign I've made since high school wood shop. I just took a piece of maple cutoff that I had lying around and rounded the edges then with a pencil marked out the lettering so I'd have something to follow. I used a carbide core box bit with a 1/4" shank. Initially I set my depth of cut a little too deep for the bit but after raising it by 1/16" or so it was working pretty nice. Again, this was just a quick sign by hand without much planning. It took about a minute to do the round overs with the piece clamped in the vice and another minute to do the lettering with the piece flat on a routing mat. Maybe another minute for each bit setup so 4 minutes total to make a cutoff piece into a reasonable sign. Not bad at all.

Overall I like it but the loose power connection is concerning and there are a few annoyances to deal with. It's not a perfect setup but it's very good.

Let me know if any of you have worked with the 1010 and have ideas for using larger bits with the dust extraction hood or how to not hit the trigger lock. I wonder if festool could be persuaded to make a taller dust extraction hood so that round overs and what not don't hit it when the router isn't plunged down so that you can get a full plunge range when using those bits without giving up dust collection?

Anyone that has either of these tools, feel free to give me your impressions, ideas or tricks.
Thanks
-Jim

 
The tool outlet on my 22 has been a loose fit for over 3 years.

I have yet to have an issue with it.

 
You have to relly twist the cable into the tool.  I had the same mistake, and ijist twisted a little bit.  That is not the way.

This tip is from Brice burrell for the TS55, but it applies here as well.
Tip from Brice about the cord

Hope this help
 
Hi,

I have a Mini and the outlet connection is not loose. So maybe it is just because it is the demo unit.

For the cleaning tools I am very pleased with the Compact Cleaning set  , and I know others here have some  of the others cleaning sets. And seem to like them.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/review-of-the-festool-installertradesperson-cleaning-set/

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/review-of-festool-workshop-cleaning-set-(product-no-454767)/

http://www.talkfestool.com/vb/festool-reviews/1927-festool-compact-cleaning-set.html

As far as comparisons/differences between the 1010 and 1400..... the 1400 is a newer router design and has nicer / updated features.  

Seth
 
In regards to the loose connections at the outlet on the vac, if it were yours - not a loaner - I would suggest that you contact the  Festool Service Department.  The receptacle is serviceable and takes less than five minutes to restore the original condition.

Peter
 
fidelfs said:
You have to relly twist the cable into the tool.  I had the same mistake, and ijist twisted a little bit.  That is not the way.

This tip is from Brice burrell for the TS55, but it applies here as well.
Tip from Brice about the cord

Hope this help

Actually I was talking about the tool plug on the vac not the twist lock on the tool. Sorry about that... the twist lock on the tool works well.
I was thinking that they need one on the vac receptacle to hold the plug in.

Woodcraft called today that my vac is in so we'll see if the new one has the same issue.
-Jim
 
My CT22 had that same loose outlet.  It's a very skimpy design when you take out the outlet and take it apart exposing the spring contacts.

But I think Festool is aware of it - they sent me a new outlet free without much trouble and as long as they continue to do so I guess I'll be happy with the less-than-durable outlet design.

It is a simple 5 minute fix to switch it out too, as mentioned.

Julian
 
It is also a five minute fix if you don't have a replacement.  You can easily service that part and tighten the connection if it gets loose.  That in my experience is better than a cheap sealed unit.  You can contact the Festool service department for instructions.

Peter
 
My CT mini has the same slack socket, a slight tug and the plug pops right out. It'd be nice to have a firmer grip but I've gotten used to it.
 
The construction of the US plugs is to blame mostly. Too much wiggle is possible. Being from Holland and also owner of a MINI overthere, I never had an issue with the plugs. For double insulated tools a flat "Euro" plug with two round pins are used. For tools with a ground wire plugs with a round body are used. They fit in the socket with almost no room to wiggle.
Not only should the USA convert to metrics, converting to the European style plugs and sockets would also be a good thing. If Obama gets his health bill through, this conversion will be easy for him.  ;D
 
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