OF2200 on Guide Rail..

[Rickfisher]

My first Festool router was an OF-1400 ..  After a while, I found a great application for the guide rail set up and bought the guide rail adaptor.
I found that set-up really didn't work well .. it was way too sloppy and the adjustments left it either too sloppy or too tight..  
After some attempts at figuring out why it wouldn't work .. I gave up and decided it was a fine router and carried on ..

My most recent Festool acquisition was an OF2200 ..  Which IMO seems a finer router than the OF1400 ..   I got the accessory kit with it .. and low and behold it came with another guide rail kit.  


So I came across that same application where a router on an accurate guide rail would be handy, and dug out the OF2200 system..  

I find it basically the same as the OF1400 ..  Either too sloppy to be precise.. or so tight that it shrieks when I try to slide it ..  [embarassed]

I love the OF2200 router..    I have raised panels with it .. its by far the finest router I have ever owned..   I am however starting to believe that either I expect too much from the guide rail system, or I just don't understand how to use it .. lol  

I did a test pass on that slab of wood, its not straight enough ..  In order for it to be straight enough, I would have to tighten the screws so much that it squeals when I slide it ..  or wiggle it all the way in one direction ( when sloppy ) ..  and not stop moving until the cut is finished. 

 

[festooldude]

Before i use the guide rail adapter, i always clean my rails and lightly
lube them with DW40.. Then i can make them pretty thight so no slop,
and they slide pretty easy..

Gr rick

 

[Rick Christopherson]

I found that set-up really didn't work well .. it was way too sloppy and the adjustments left it either too sloppy or too tight..  
After some attempts at figuring out why it wouldn't work .. I gave up and decided it was a fine router and carried on ..

I'm a little confused on what you are referring to as too sloppy. When the guide rail gibs are properly adjusted, the worst you could see in any accuracy error is only a couple thousandths of an inch, which is way below the measurability in wood. If you are thinking that this is not precise because you are feeling some rocking back and forth as you move the router left and right, that is not actually affecting any accuracy. I would have to do some calculations, but that would be down in the 1-ten-thousandths-of-an-inch range. That is well below machine shop standards for accuracy.

From the wording in your posting, it sounds like you have adjusted the guide rail gibs. However, if you haven't done this, then you need to download the OF1400 Supplemental Manual or the OF2200 Supplemental Manual. Either of these manuals will explain how to adjust the guide rail gibs for the Guide Rail Attachment for the specific router.

If you have done that procedure, then I think you are looking at the level of precision incorrectly. For the operation you are showing in the picture above, your error in the position of the dado will be less than 0.001" with a "slop" of 0.002" in the guide rail gibs. The actual error is probably lower than that, but I would have to make some rather complicated calculations to give you better numbers.

[attachimg=#]

 

[mouppe]

I suggest the problem may lie in how you are pushing the router along the rail. I put one hand on the guide rail attachment and the other on the router base. If you have both hands on the router you can sometimes twist the router slightly as you are moving it along and this can cause a jumpy or wavy cut.

 

[Rickfisher]

Thanks for the replies.  I always figured I would wait for a Festool demo day and ask for advice. 

I have adjusted the screws on the adaptor but found that it squeals ... I think I will try some Wax .. WD-40 would probably work better but I cant get any oil on the wood. 

I had thought about getting one made out of brass.  Simple but tighter .. lol  Maybe I need lubricant. 

 

[fshanno]

I've used Johnson's paste wax and it does help.  I've done it a lot with good results.  I like to cut the dado for cabinet backs registering from the front edge of the case.  Got to use the guide for that. 

I wish you'd try something for me.  Try to CUT plywood with your 2200 on the rail.  See how it works.  Sort of like a hand powered CNC.  Use a spiral bit.  I'm curious to see what the edge would be like, tear out and square wise.  On difficult sheet goods it may do better than the saw.  Also note the width of the cut vs. the stated size of the bit.  If it's a quarter inch bit is the cut exactly 1/4".  It would be nice if both sides of the cut were keepers. 

 

[Rickfisher]

Well, I waxed the guide rail and tried again ..  I think my expectations are the problem ..  I still find it pretty sloppy.  I think I might try to make a rail adaptor out of brass or aluminium which will fit nice and snug..      No real complaints here.  love the router..  I think its by far the most sophisticated router I have ever owned or seen .. 

 

[Rob-GB]

I have not adjusted the guide rail adaptor, just used it out of the box. However as was mentioned it may be the way I use it that makes the difference.
I shall try to explain, so bear with me.

I clamp the rail down parallel to the groove/trench/dado line.
Standing in front of the workpiece with the rail to my right set the router to cut to the line and check (un-powered) that the cutter is aligned at both ends of the cut.(with a slight pressure to the left)
With my right hand on the adaptor knob and left hand on the router handle furthest away from the rail pull the router towards you with a slight pressure to the left, making several passes to get required depth. (The slight pressure to the left will negate any minute slop in the tracking)
(N.B. Just because the router can cut 1/2" deep in one pass does not mean it is prudent to do so)
Raise the cutter out of the wood before sliding back for the next pass.

If the adaptor is too sloppy or squeals through being over tight adjust it as you would the fittings on the base of a TS55, they are designed to slide sans lube.

Rob.

 

[fshanno]

Weird. 

I assume you've tried it in both directions, normal and climb. 

Have you run it with the plunge locked?  Go ahead and plunge down and lock it before you start the cut.  And while you're at it don't even hold the top or either of the handles of the router.  Hold the guide stop below the knob and the base of the router.  Get all your force right down at the lowest level possible.  Perhaps it's not just slop in the guide stop/guide interface.  Maybe is slight flex of the whole rig because pressure is being applied up on the router handle.

You could try the MircoFence Festool interface.

 

[Rickfisher]

Thanks for that..  I am putting a huge tenon in a 8 foot long Zebra wood counter top ..  My gut tells me to clamp a slab of plywood down too the top and push the router old school ..   

This large Zebra wood top has too tenon into a Black Walnut counter top section with a mortise that I will make via a multi router.. 

I'm gonna try again with the track but that last line has to be straight..  My gut says clamp a piece of plywood down and do it old school ..  lol

In your advice you say to push in order to remove the slop ..  That is my point..  Why the slop ?  Why not make it a snug fit.. 

I never bought a TS55 Track saw..  I have every festool router, domino, sanders etc..  never bought the track saw because of my previous experience with the OF1400 .. 

 

[Rickfisher]

I was out working on it and I was thinking of what Rob said when it hit me ..  Thanks very much for the replies..  Hogged out the bulk of the tenon with an 1-1/4" wide straight cut bit..  The OF-2200 didn't even make a groan..  Great router.. 

 

[Rob-GB]

I was out working on it and I was thinking of what Rob said when it hit me .. 

What "hit" you? and was it my fault?  [eek]  ;D
Rob.

 

[ScotF]

I have not adjusted the guide rail adaptor, just used it out of the box. However as was mentioned it may be the way I use it that makes the difference.
I shall try to explain, so bear with me.

I clamp the rail down parallel to the groove/trench/dado line.
Standing in front of the workpiece with the rail to my right set the router to cut to the line and check (un-powered) that the cutter is aligned at both ends of the cut.(with a slight pressure to the left)
With my right hand on the adaptor knob and left hand on the router handle furthest away from the rail pull the router towards you with a slight pressure to the left, making several passes to get required depth. (The slight pressure to the left will negate any minute slop in the tracking)
(N.B. Just because the router can cut 1/2" deep in one pass does not mean it is prudent to do so)
Raise the cutter out of the wood before sliding back for the next pass.

If the adaptor is too sloppy or squeals through being over tight adjust it as you would the fittings on the base of a TS55, they are designed to slide sans lube.

Rob.

Rob,

Are you working off the back of the rail (opposite the splinter guard) or using a climb cut by pulling?  Just curious, but it sounds like you work off the t-track side of the rail with your description.

Scot

 

[Rob-GB]

Like this:

Rob.