OF2200 Questions

[MrToolJunkie]

Hi everyone,

I have a few questions about this router and I am interested in hearing from other OF2200 owners or Festool.

1.  What is the actual amperage of this machine?  The manual says 15 Amps, the new brochure and some other postings have said 18 Amps.  If it is 18 Amps, it seems like it might tax the plug on the CT unit.  It is not a problem to plug it into a wall, I would just lose the auto dust collection.

2.  Does anyone use 1/4 inch collets on the machine?  I know that it can accept them and I know that 1/2 inch would be the way to go for most things.  This router is so smooth and balances so well, though, that I could see using it for inlay grooves and other lighter duty work.  Curious what others think on this -- I do not own any other Festool router, but do have another brand that I could use with smaller bits.  Since it is an extra $44.00 for the collet, I am wondering if it is really worth buying it (I know, you spend the amount of money on this thing and it is almost like saying does it really matter, but I am not one to buy something and then never use it).

3.  Do the less expensive limit stops work on the guide rail with this router and the router guide stop for stopped cuts or is the more expensive limit stop (item 485 827) a better way to go?  I know that one works in just the t-track and the other can work in the t-track and the u-channel.  I am just not sure if the t-track limit stop would work or work as well.

4.  Anyone use this with the OF-FH routing aid? How does it feel in the horizontal position -- the router is heavy and I would like to know if you are fighting the weight in this position (I realize that a smaller router might be a better option for this application, but I am trying to get a sense of real-world experiences).

Thanks in advance,

Scot

 

[Brice Burrell]

Hi Scot, I believe the 2200 draws up to 18 amps but that doesn't happen unless you're really pushing the router.  I've made some pretty deep cuts with the 2200 plugged into my CT on a 20 amp circuit with no problems, I've tripped the breaker (at the panel) with the vac and router.

As for 1/4" collets/bits, I've not used a 1/4" shank bit yet but I know there is a member that has with good results.  Although I'd advise using common sense on when it's a good idea since the 2200 has the torque to snap the shank if you're know being careful.  I know the collets from the OF1400 will also fit the 2200 so you can save a few bucks there.

Now that I think of it I've used my 2200 on the guide rail yet so I don't if what stops will work.

I can't see the 2200 working well in the horizontal position with the routing aid (Plexiglas template), it's just too heavy for that to be practical. 

Have had a chance to try one out at a dealer's yet?   

 

[MrToolJunkie]

Hi Brice,

Thanks for your comments and feedback.  I did stop by a dealer yesterday and I was blown away at how good this thing felt in my hands...everything about it screams quality and the balance was amazing -- probably one of the best balanced hand power tools I have seen.  Everything was well thought out and made sense...before looking at it I was a bit skeptical of the price...after playing around with one a little, the price does not seem that out of whack.  I know that it is 18 pounds, but it did not feel that heavy to me. Granted it was only 10 minutes of playing with it and this might be different after swinging it around all day in the shop.  I envision something like this being a real workhorse in my shop.

Scot 

 

[tbellemare]

I know the collets from the OF1400 will also fit the 2200 so you can save a few bucks there.

Thanks, Brice! I was going to stay out of this because of perceived bias.

The new, more sealed collets, that are considered OF 2200 collets, have replaced the old ones for the OF 1400 as replacement/enhancement collets. They are superior and it is a good thing anyway...

The 2200 in OF 2200 means 2200 Watts.
Watts = Amps x Volts
So, if you assume 110 volts, 2200 Watts =  X Amps x 110 Volts or the tool CAN DRAW 20 Amps.
If you assume 120 volts, 2200 Watts = X Amps x 120 Volts or the tool CAN DRAW 18-1/3 Amps.

It's highly unlikely that you will ever push that router hard enough to draw 20 Amps. It has soft start technology so starting current (Amperage) is kept in check and though you can push it hard enough to stall it, you would have to be a lot braver than anyone I know.

Tom

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

I seem to remember the guys running a pretty good sized roundover bit through some maple while the 2200 was passing through a meter that measure current draw.  If memory serves, it was pulling around 12 amps. If that's a concern, the variable speed on the router and the CT can help limit draw.

 

[Chris Hughes]

I've owned mine for a couple of years now.  I used to use my 3 1/4hp PCs but between the dust control and the ease of use changing between the bases they have become almost obsolete.  I bought the tool initially for solid surface.

 

[MrToolJunkie]

Thanks Tom and Shane!  So it seems like it would be OK to plug it into the CT as long as I was not pushing it overly hard.

 

[MrToolJunkie]

Chris,

Thanks -- do you use 1/4 inch bits at all or do you use solely 1/2 inch?  I have mostly 1/2 inch now, but I also have a few 1/4 inch bits for inlay.

Scot

 

[Bob Marino]

Thanks Tom and Shane!  So it seems like it would be OK to plug it into the CT as long as I was not pushing it overly hard.

Yes, correct.

Bob

 

[nickao]

You know for years and years I always stuck to the 1/2" bits because of what I read. Now after using 1/4" bits for 3 years just about exclusively and even pushing 1/4" bits on a CNC harder than anyone could ever use them on a hand held I have found out a few things.

First, I still have never broken a 1/4' shank.

Second, I can not notice any additional vibration nor a difference in any of the cuts of my 1/4" bits vs 1/2" bits.

Third, a lot of times the 1/4" bits are a lot cheaper!

I will go against the traditional wisdom and now say 1/4" bits are fine, if not fantastic. Possibly in the old days the bits were not as good a quality as they are now, therefore requiring 1/2" bits.  

Now I find personally there is no difference in the final performance between the two and just get what is cheaper and what you need for the specific job.

Many guys initially argue the point until I ask if they actually took time to compare 1/4" shank vs 1/2" shank over the long haul. Invariably I find that the theory  of the 1/2" shank always being superior is just something that was drilled into their heads from others and books and not really from an experience standpoint.

If I can run a 1/4" shank bit in a CNC going 300-600 IPM(which I do almost everyday) that pretty much proves that breaking and vibration just are not valid considerations anymore.

 

[Warrior]

I deffinately do notice a difference in running 1/2" shank bits vs 1/4" shank. I find that the longer the bit the more noticable it is. What are you testing Nickao? v-grooves and 1/4" roundovers?

 

[nickao]

Long bits yes, there is a difference. Still, I run a 4" long 1/4" shank down cut spiral at 600 IPM in a CNC machine and there is absolutely no chatter at all. There is just no way to beat on a router like that  by hand.

Most bits I use are of the spiral variety. Unless the diameter of the actual cutter gets over 3/4" I find no difference whatsoever. The only thing I would say 1/2" shank bits are better at  are profiles of an inch or more and cutting at least 3/8" deep per pass. Other than that I stick with the 1/4" cutters now and have never had an issue. I have a 1.25" bowl cutting bit in both 1/4" and 1/2" and find no difference whatsoever. One Eagle brand one Amana. And those bits hog out material at great depths.

I will say I don't use cheap bits and bits that are sharp and very good produce far less strain on the shaft.

I still wonder what exactly what do you notice that is different?

And of course anything like large profile bits for doors etc are always 1/2". I don't think they even make them in 1/4".

 

[Jay Evans]

My 2 cents
Solid Carbide 1/4 bits will be fine in the 2200 because the material is more ridged and more stable, with less flex.  Solid carbid bits are also automatically in balance because of the manufacturing process.  1/4 shank bits with brazed carbide have steel shanks, which could flex under load.  Remember, you can not bend a solid carbide bit, it will simply snap off.  I use 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 solid carbide end mills in my 2200 all the time ( 2 flute, center cutting end mills are much cheaper than router bits) for wood, solid surface and Plexiglas.  they work great. 

About the Plexiglas template.  It will work great on the 2200, but needs to be used with the router in the upright position because of the weight of the router.  If you were going to mortise for a lock set, you would really need to stand the door on edge and use the router in the Plexiglas guide with the router upright.  I wouldn't count on the screws that clamp the sides of the Plexiglas template to the base of the themplate to support the weight of the router with the router in the horizontal position.  You could rig it up to be more reliable that way, but your best bet is to not use the 2200 and the Plexiglas template in the horizontal position, it's just too awkward and out of balance.  The weight of the 2200 work with you very well when routing flat and standard, and against you when routing horizontal.

Hope this helps
Jay

 

[greg mann]

I think it makes sense to use the Plexiglass template in the upright position whenever possible regardless of which router is being used, but if you have to use it horizintally the 2200 would be far more difficult to control.

On the issue of amperage draw, I am not sure, but I believe it is correct to say that the amount of amperage used will be essentially the same to do a specific cut whether one is using a 1010, 1400, or 2200 router. The issue of tripping an overload, whether in the dc or in a breaker box, will only come into play if you can push the power consumption over a specific demand, and that may only happen with a bigger router. With a smaller one, like a 1010, you may trip overload protection within the router itself. I have tripped a breaker once using a big PC in a router table plugged into my CT. It was on a cut where I was really pushing the power usage for a pretty long pass. I have never tripped the internal overload on the CT so it makes me think that the CT is looking at the tool load separately from the CT load, since it took a COMBINED load to trip the breaker while neither the router or the CT individually were overloaded.

 

[Chris Hughes]

Scot, 

Yes I use 1/4" bits with my 2200, against the advice of our instructors.  But as a philosopher once said, "A pen and sword in accord."  I only use my 1/4 bits for finish trimming with templates or on finer edging work.  At class the concern with the Festool instructors was that with the weight of the router and it's ability to maintain rpm's that a quarter inch bit could be snapped easily and become ballistic. 

I own as many small bits as 1/2" so I bought the 1/4" collet right away.  My advice is to use them but remember as Nick said, carbide will snap, and you don't want that.

 

[RONWEN]

I can't locate the picture of the router bit but Roger Savatteri designed & built a 5'x11' dining room table based on a torsion box and had a huge router bit custom made for his 2200 router to generate the profile around the lower edge of the table.  Just the picture of this huge router bit in his 2200 sent chills through me however the 2200 handled the job perfectly.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

I can't locate the picture of the router bit but Roger Savatteri designed & built a 5'x11' dining room table based on a torsion box and had a huge router bit custom made for his 2200 router to generate the profile around the lower edge of the table.  Just the picture of this huge router bit in his 2200 sent chills through me however the 2200 handled the job perfectly.

That post is right here.

Boy, what a bit!!!!  [jawdrop]

 

[ccarrolladams]

Like Nickao, I often use 8mm and 1/4" shank cutters on my CNC nested routers. I also use 1/2" shank cutters. I adjust the speed of rotation and the feed speed to be appropriate for the cutter and material. Those are factors I can and do program.

Long before I bought my first CNC router I had been using routers free-hand, with jigs and in router tables. By the time I bought an OF2200 I owned many bits and cutters with 1/4 and 1/2" shanks. I had spoken to Festool reps and instructors, as well as my dealer. I understand why Festool recommends only using 1/2" shank cutters on the OF2200. Far be it from me to contradict more experienced experts. I agree that when an OF2200 is being used to capacity 1/2" shanks are needed.

However, I bought the OF2200 because I felt there are situations when I would prefer the OF1400 to weigh more, not necessarily be more powerful. It did not seem practical to add lead weights to increase the mass of the OF1400. I was concerned some regulator would object to me using lead weights. What made sense to me was the OF2200 running at less than maximum speed and fed as if it were an OF1400.

My dealer did not ask if I was going to use the 1/4" collet on the OF2200 or OF1400. As far as I know back then they used the same collets.

 

[RONWEN]

I can't locate the picture of the router bit but Roger Savatteri designed & built a 5'x11' dining room table based on a torsion box and had a huge router bit custom made for his 2200 router to generate the profile around the lower edge of the table.  Just the picture of this huge router bit in his 2200 sent chills through me however the 2200 handled the job perfectly.

That post is right here.

Boy, what a bit!!!!  [jawdrop]

That's the one and that bit is incredible!

 

[extiger]

A machine in my shop is made in England and is powered by a router, in this case DeWalt 625. They make and sell all HSS tooling for it (no welding) and the bits are available in 1/2" and 8mm sizes.  In Imperial measurements, 8mm works out to be about 3/8". I think. 1/4" would equal 6mm. Lee Valley sells collet adapters for these.

I needed some parts and accessories and during an overseas phone call asked why the choice of 8mm for bits. It is a very popular size in Europe, I hear. The designer of the machine told me that 8mm was a suitable step down from 1/2" without much of a sacrifice in safety or durability. As any Festool owner knows, safety regulations in Europe are far more stringent than ours. They just weren't comfortable with 1/4",  [unsure]

People will argue back and forth whether this is good or excess, but there it is about bit sizes.

Gary Curtis