I recently got my OF2200, and I'm having an issue with the bit cutting too deep when I plunge it to the desired depth. I'm attempting to do a precise depth, and when I pull the router down to the desired depth it always goes too keep into the material by a little less than 1mm leaving behind a bit mark that shouldn't be there. Any tips on stopping this from happening? I am not pulling it down too hard. It seems like something is flexing causing this to happen.
OF2200 Router is cutting too deep
- Thread starter jsoll816
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I don't have the 2200 but I do have a 1400 and the turret for setting the depth does have a small amount of movement. To set the depth correctly you need to apply downward pressure when setting your depth or else when you plunge it will go a tiny bit deeper.
Peter
By the way since you are new to the OF2200, you might want to download the supplemental manual which has many tips - a great reference manual! Here is a link to the document hosted on the author of the manuals' website. It includes the illustrations. If you go to the Festool site and download it the illustrations have been removed. The link: https://www.waterfront-woods.com/festool/OF2200_Manual.pdf
Peter
By the way since you are new to the OF2200, you might want to download the supplemental manual which has many tips - a great reference manual! Here is a link to the document hosted on the author of the manuals' website. It includes the illustrations. If you go to the Festool site and download it the illustrations have been removed. The link: https://www.waterfront-woods.com/festool/OF2200_Manual.pdf
woodbutcherbower
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Welcome to the FOG !!!
^^^^^^^^^ What Peter said.
If you don't get any joy or it's too fiddly for you, another way of achieving perfectly flat trench or mortise bottoms is to use the 'moving plunge' trick. Set the plunge depth to around 2mm (1/16") above where you finally want it. Then release the plunge lock, and start at the workpiece surface using as many passes as appropriate to get the entire trench dug out. You'll end up with a trench which needs another 2mm shaving off the bottom.
Once you've done that - set your plunge depth to its final setting. Loosen the plunge lock to raise the bit slightly just so that it's hovering 1-2mm above the existing 'not-quite-deep-enough-yet' trench depth. Then plunge the router to its final depth and lock it whilst moving the router forwards through the cut. The absolute key to this is to plunge fairly gradually whilst the machine's moving forwards, so the bit enters the '2mm-too-high' section at a shallow angle rather than it dropping like a stone. Ideally, you want to be at full depth by the time you're no more than 60-70mm away from the beginning of the cut. Cut all the way to the end, and then whilst still at full plunge, draw the router backwards all the way down the cut to take out the remaining 60-70mm unshaved section at the beginning. Go slower when you're doing this last part. Although backwards routing obviously isn't usually a good idea - in this case you're only shaving off a tiny amount over a very short distance. Sounds complicated, but it's quick and easy to do.
That fixes it.
Kevin
^^^^^^^^^ What Peter said.
If you don't get any joy or it's too fiddly for you, another way of achieving perfectly flat trench or mortise bottoms is to use the 'moving plunge' trick. Set the plunge depth to around 2mm (1/16") above where you finally want it. Then release the plunge lock, and start at the workpiece surface using as many passes as appropriate to get the entire trench dug out. You'll end up with a trench which needs another 2mm shaving off the bottom.
Once you've done that - set your plunge depth to its final setting. Loosen the plunge lock to raise the bit slightly just so that it's hovering 1-2mm above the existing 'not-quite-deep-enough-yet' trench depth. Then plunge the router to its final depth and lock it whilst moving the router forwards through the cut. The absolute key to this is to plunge fairly gradually whilst the machine's moving forwards, so the bit enters the '2mm-too-high' section at a shallow angle rather than it dropping like a stone. Ideally, you want to be at full depth by the time you're no more than 60-70mm away from the beginning of the cut. Cut all the way to the end, and then whilst still at full plunge, draw the router backwards all the way down the cut to take out the remaining 60-70mm unshaved section at the beginning. Go slower when you're doing this last part. Although backwards routing obviously isn't usually a good idea - in this case you're only shaving off a tiny amount over a very short distance. Sounds complicated, but it's quick and easy to do.
That fixes it.
Kevin
Thank you for the replies! I will try these recommendations today, and hopefully I can get rid of this issue. I am currently using a 5/8" x 1" straight fluted bit, but am receiving some nice bits from bits and bits soon so hopefully the investment helps a bit as well. I also appreciate the manual, I'm sure that will come in handy. Happy to be here!
