Oh, I'm so disappointed - ts55 and dust :'( Advice?

Chinski

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Apr 4, 2019
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So yesterday I finally properly used my mft/3 with my new ts55 all plugged into a CTL26 of course.

But I had loads of dust and now have to clean up my pristine workshop and am wondering - I must be doing something weird cos you all can't be wrong about how great the dust collection is!

I was cutting to length some pine 40mm depth (below the track) by about 90mm.  I was cutting square blocks from a strip.  I was using the splinter stop set to touch the top of the wood.  But at the end of every cut, there was a huge plume of dust (see pic) that has absolutely trashed the place - and really certainly not what I would call even vaguely approaching dust-free.  My table saw is cleaner and I'm wondering why I've spent all the cash to get a cleaner workshop - when it will be as bad as ever!

Am I doing something wrong?  This can't be right can it?

I have ordered the side cover plate ABSA-TS 55 part 491750 as its listed to help dust collection - will it?!

Any other advice please?

Thanks
Chinski

 

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you will get some dust in that situation, especially at the end of the cut. try doing some long cuts on some sheet material.
 
Perfectly normal. The side plate helps a bit. I usually place scrap pieces of wood to surround the entry and exit cuts to block the dust. It also helps support the rail.
 
I get dust at the end of a TS55 cut. I set up a “blocker” at the back of the cut. Works pretty well.
 
Oh.

That's worse than finding out the bloomin' tooth fairy isn't real.

I'll give the wood block a go.

Thanks.
 
I have three different plunge saws from different brands, and a few extractors, and in any combination I’ve used, I’m always happy, even with a small cordless extractor?
The thickness of stock being cut, will make a difference obviously, as you’re removing more material, and the rail is further from the bench top.
I know one thing, they make a hell of a lot more dust without extraction! ;)
 
Something to keep in mind is that the dust extraction is very good as long as you keep the outside edge of the blade encapsulated.  Either by the piece you are cutting, by the saw housing, scrap stock or foam boards under, after or before the cut.  But there may be times where there isn't much you can do...such as trimming 1mm off the edge of a cabinet door. 
 
Kriss from Toolify made an attachment to improve dust collection when making edge cuts:

It looks like a fair amount of work to make, but it does look like the dust collection is much improved.
 
The stop block at the end will help a lot.

After the first cut, after there is a kerf in the stop block, some dust will shoot up that kerf and escape. To minimize dust put a piece of tape over the kerf in the stop block.

If replacing the tape is too tedious you can rig up a piece of cardboard to the front of the saw (or maybe something that slides on the guide rail over the stop block) to cover the kerf.

Finally, once the cut is complete, keep the saw running a moment longer so the vac can inhale more of the fine dust.
 
That's one of my problems with the Festool extractors - a lack of 'run on'. Most of the other major brands have 5 - 10 seconds of extraction after the tool has stopped.
 
While there is some sawdust that escapes at the end of every cut, it isn't huge amounts. I've found that there is no tool/dust collector on the market which catches 100% of the sawdust from  the work we do. That is why I have an air cleaner mounted in my shop. It may circulate some dust in the air a bit longer but, between the dust collector, CT, and air cleaner, I don't have much dust anywhere. If it's bothersome,  I just clean it up off the floor after I'm done.

The Festool tools and dust extractors collect more dust and chips than any combination I've used, but they don't collect it all.
 
It isn't commonly discussed, why,  I don't know.  It's the same with the deficiencies with the MFT3.  You have to dig to find them being discussed.  Once you bring it up people are generally like "ya, I have that problem".  If you're coming from a circular saw with no dust collection the TS55 will blow your mind but if you're used to a cabinet saw with overarm dust guard you're going to be dissapointed. 

As for the track saw, I tried all the tricks, but nothing is going to get it running as dust free as a table saw with cabinet and overarm dust control.  It got to the point were I stopped breaking down sheet goods in my shop because the dust was too crazy.  I keep my area suuuuper clean because I have a gym and machinist tools in the same area.  I also run 2 Jet air cleaners on medium all the time and then on high for 2 hours when I leave.

I ended up selling my TS55 and buying a cordless Makita.  It's a better saw in my opinion and being cordless I just grab the tool and track and head outside.  Very fast, very convenient, no dust in my shop. 

If you're keeping the TS55 and the MFT you'll want to set up "backing block" so that the dust will only escape through the kerf, not shoot out everywhere like a shotgun blast.

 
Cover the square hole on the blade cover with masking tape (the hole where you access the blade change). This will help a little with extraction.
 
You should also make a few cuts without the dust collection attached to compare that to when you are using the dust extraction. It’s usually a big difference. And as others have already said, having a sacrificial surface below the material helps a lot.
 
TheSergeant said:
I keep my area suuuuper clean because I have a gym and machinist tools in the same area. 

Ha - ditto!  I get that it does a brilliant job and its hard to overcome physics.

Will try the tips you've all sent.

Thanks everyone.
 
I've found where the dust extraction suffers is when cutting of thin edges off of stock, but otherwise, I'm happy with mine which is a TS75 though.
 
Kevin D. said:
I've found where the dust extraction suffers is when cutting of thin edges off of stock, but otherwise, I'm happy with mine which is a TS75 though.

In this situation just hang a stiff pice of cardboard (like a cereal box side) off the saw with a couple of pieces of tape. Works best if it hang a couple of inches below the rail, and a bit forward of the saw.
 
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