One Long Rail or Will Two Work?

[JuliMor]

I was reading some reviews on the Festool 482107 Guide Rail Connector.  There was an almost unanimous opinion that if you need to connect two rails together, you're better off buying one long one.  The problem cited is the Guide Rail Connector.  According to the reviews I read, they can be easily dislodged, don't hold the rails together securely and the materials used are inferior. 

I'm looking at the TS 55 REQ to be used primarily for cutting sheet goods.  I might also use it to joint a long board.  I had planned on using (2) 55" rails and connecting them.  I would have been concerned about the connection joint, because that was the major weakness in two other guide rails I have bought over the years.  But since this is a Festool product, I wasn't concerned.  Now it seems I should be.

???

 

[Stephen B]

Hi Julie,

I have found that if you use a straight edge against the two rails as you tighten the connector screws and recheck after you flip the rails over, there are few issues. I saw this technique on a Utube video last year when I purchased my connectors after getting a second rail which came with my TS55. It has provided good results both sawing and routing.

However one day I will get a longer rail!

 

[peter halle]

I am sure that you will get many responses.  I have not had issues when I joined mine.  Because I have 2700 rail also I don't join them as much as I once did, but having the ability to go over 12' in length does come in handy.  Somewhere here this is a post when the Swensons did over 32 feet for a bar top without issues.

As I am trying to shrink down in vehicle size I may be forced to start joining rails again on a regular basis just for transportation issues.  If that does come about I will be adding a 75" rail to the arsenal (I would suggest that if you go the shorter rail route you go 55 and 75 for versatility sake).

Just my thought, others will have their own.

Peter

 

[deepcreek]

If money is no object and I had amble space for storage, I'd probably get a 118" rail for ripping sheet goods and a 75" to crosscut.

That being said, I have utilized two 55" rails joined together for years with great success.  The trick is to leave a slight gap between them (maybe 1/8") and something to aid alignment.  For a long time, I used a 78" level to align them but recently switched to the Betterley straightline connector and love it.  It's a $100 accessory so some will tell you it's not worth it but frankly when you spend the kind of money we do on Festool it's a drop in the bucket.

A 55" rail is just barely long enough to crosscut 4-foot plywood.  The Betterley has made fast and accurate connections so easy that I'm going to get a 32" rail to connect to my 42" rail.  This combination should also make cutting Baltic Birch (5x5') plywood a lot easier.

 

[AdamM]

I second the straight-edge technique.  As long as I make sure they are straight when and after tightening the connectors, I've never noticed a problem.

I also second Peter's suggestion to not get 2 rails of the same length.  Varying lengths add a lot of versatility.  Also, for cutting sheet goods on the 48" side, I've found the 75" is much easier to place than a 55" as you don't have to have it perfectly centered and don't have to plunge cut the beginning of the cut.

 

[leakyroof]

As Peter noted, if you have to move your guide rails by vehicle, then it's easier to move several shorter versions than a 3000 or 5000. Having said that, the 3000 is nice for 4 x 8 sheets since you're not setting up two rails and the time that takes for checking proper or parallel connections. If you're keeping the rails in the shop, my vote is for a long rail, if you can store it easily.
 My local dealer has actually sold multiple 5000 rails to someone who REALLY needs to connect all of them for long cuts[think gym or other type flooring work.. [eek]]
Wonder what their guide rail assortment looks like   [tongue]

 

[Frank Pellow]

I move rails frequently and have had no problems with the connectors (other then losing the small bolts in them from time to time  [embarassed]).

I take time and care when installing the connectors, and it appears that this time and care is rewarded with good results.  I have even successfully joined together three 1400 mm rails using two sets of connectors.

 

[tiralie]

The connectors are good. They do the job they are supposed to do. As long as you don't plan on carrying the joined rail around and don't over tighten the hex nuts and use a good straight edge, all will be well.
Tim

 

[GarryMartin]

I have various rails and have joined them prior to getting the 3000mm one. As others have noted, you *can* successfully join two (or more) rails and get good results, but then handling them whilst connected becomes a source of error and you need to re-check them regularly.

I can use my 3000mm rail, and then move it out of the way single handed, and then move on to another cut and bring it back safe in the knowledge it is "straight".

Trying to do the same with joined rails might not be as easy and I'd probably want to check their "straightness" before the next cut.

So in essence, it's not just an alignment issue for me, it's a time one. If you're only occasionally doing cuts that would require you to join rails, it may not be cost effective to get a longer rail. But if you are, then it will quickly pay for itself as you won't be breaking down the rails for shorter cuts and then putting them back together for longer ones.

But again as others have mentioned, I have my 1400 and 1900 rails and connectors for transportability in my car - there's no way the 3000mm would fit safely!

The sweet spot for me is the 1080 (FS 1080/2) on the MFT/3, two "holey" 1400 (FS 1400/LR32) for normal use as well as with the LR32 kit, and a 1900 (FS 1900/2) and a 3000 (FS 3000/2) which allow parallel and angled cuts on standard, widely available UK sheet good sizes (2440mm x 1220mm) as single rails, with two sets of rail connectors for the times I need to join them.

 

[PeterK]

In a perfect world you need to use a single unjoined rail for each cut so need multiple length rails in your arsenal, especially for critical cuts.

I recently had to make a series of 64" cuts. I very carefully joined 2 rails using a 6foot level that is visually perfectly straight as a reference edge. Double checked the rails every time I moved them. Ended up with cuts that were not straight. Crap. Ordered a 75" rail and redid my cuts. Perfect results. Just got a Betterley connector gizmo but have yet to try it out. Waiting on some custom connectors from one of our members here to be manufactured to see if that helps.

 

[semenza]

It really isn't a big problem connecting two rails. There are several techniques and small tricks to help do this and have them work well. I mostly think it is a hassle to deal with on any regular basis. If storing and transporting the long rails is no a problem then get the long rails.  A nice pretty much all purpose set of lengths to have is 55" (1400), 75" (1900), 118" (3000).   

      The 55" is just long enough to cross cut 48", you need to position the run in/out space just right. A couple marks on the rail can make this quicker.  But over width  sheet goods and use of the rail end deflector make a plunge to start the cut necessary.  I like the 75" for sheet goods cross cuts. It's actually more than needed, but generally not too long to become awkward. A 62" rail would be perfect.

      The 106" rail is long enough for rip cuts (96") on sheet goods but does require accurate run in/out positioning.  The 118" is enough to make this easy. Plus very handy for ripping (straight lining)  boards that are  rough length 8' or up to 9'.

      The TS75 needs a few more inches than the TS55. The 75" and 118" are needed to avoid plunge cut starts.

Seth

 

[mouppe]

I was reading some reviews on the Festool 482107 Guide Rail Connector.  1) There was an almost unanimous opinion that if you need to connect two rails together, you're better off buying one long one.  The problem cited is the Guide Rail Connector.  According to the reviews I read, 2) they can be easily dislodged, don't hold the rails together securely and the materials used are inferior. 

I'm looking at the TS 55 REQ to be used primarily for cutting sheet goods.  I might also use it to joint a long board.  I had planned on using (2) 55" rails and connecting them.  I would have been concerned about the connection joint, because that was the major weakness in two other guide rails I have bought over the years.  But since this is a Festool product, I wasn't concerned.  Now it seems I should be.

???

1) Unanimous? Far from it.  I think you'll find opinion is fairly evenly divided on whether to go with one long or two short. And I would advise going with a 75" and a 55" rail to give you three different length options. That's what I have.

2) Triple nonsense. Don't know where you read that but the authors are talking rubbish.

The principal concern some people have with guide rails is the hassle factor of having to connect and disconnect them, and a dependable way to ensure they are coplanar.

 

[JuliMor]

Thanks guys.  FWIW, the reviews I read were on Amazon.  I know they can be all over the place.  I figured I'd get some more reliable responses here.

Having never heard of Betterley, I Googled it and found a couple of videos on the setup and results when used with the Festool rails.



I was surprised to hear the guy doing the video (Tom) say the edges "are not machined straight."  I take that to mean the edges at the ends are not machined square to the long edge.  Is that true?

 

[ccarrolladams]

Hi Julie,

My experience has been that in woodworking there are hundreds of tasks harder to learn than joining two or more Festool guide rails. When I bought my first TS55, all I knew about Festools was that I had once seen a track saw in use on This Old House and a dealer I had trusted for over 20 years suggested I consider Festool instead of a larger table saw. In years past he had sold me enough large, expensive fixed machines to equip two successful cabinet shops. But that day I told him I did not have a shop any longer and I also no longer had a pick-up with a lumber rack. My plan when I drove to his store was to lease a shop with enough space to use a big slider-table cabinet saw. Still, I was open to alternatives. He had sold me a portable Inca table saw which I still owned but only used to rip and cross cut solid lumber.

After I used a TS55 on a 1900mm rail and was very impressed with the quality of cut on cabinet grade plywood, I also liked moving the saw and not the full sheet of plywood through a saw, even a slider. The CT22 dust extractor might have been expensive compared to a home vac, but inexpensive compared to a dust collection system needed for a high-power slider saw.

Once I accepted the guide rails, my dealer showed me a 3000mm rail. We moved a CT22 into his warehouse along with a TS55 so I could try the long rail on a sheet of 4x8 MDF on saw horses. I liked the idea, but knew in my condo I did not have room for the long rail storage. So he showed me how to connect 2 of the 1400mm rails. That was January 2006 long before the 1900mm (75") rail was introduced. He also suggested that I buy a third 1400mm rail. That would serve as a straight edge to align the connected pair of rails. More important, with it I could make cross cuts without breaking down the connected pair of rails.

From then until mid 2010 I rented space in shops belonging to friends on a project by project basis. I carried the pair to be connected in a Festool rail bag, with the pair of connector bars. I carried the other 1400mm rail in a second bag with a 1080mm Holy rail for drilling LR32mm holes. Eventually I did purchase a pick-up with a lumber rack. As soon as I had that I bought both a 2700mm and 3000mm rail, so when I was renting two shops I could leave a long rail at each.

The day I bought the large industrial building that became my shop in mid 2010, I ordered a 5000mm rail. These days I only use the connected short rails when I must build on site. It adds to my revenue to remain versatile.

 

[Paul G]

I was reading some reviews on the Festool 482107 Guide Rail Connector.   1) There was an almost unanimous opinion that if you need to connect two rails together, you're better off buying one long one.  The problem cited is the Guide Rail Connector.  According to the reviews I read, 2) they can be easily dislodged, don't hold the rails together securely and the materials used are inferior.  

I'm looking at the TS 55 REQ to be used primarily for cutting sheet goods.  I might also use it to joint a long board.  I had planned on using (2) 55" rails and connecting them.  I would have been concerned about the connection joint, because that was the major weakness in two other guide rails I have bought over the years.  But since this is a Festool product, I wasn't concerned.  Now it seems I should be.

???

1) Unanimous? Far from it.   I think you'll find opinion is fairly evenly divided on whether to go with one long or two short. And I would advise going with a 75" and a 55" rail to give you three different length options. That's what I have.

2) Triple nonsense. Don't know where you read that but the authors are talking rubbish.

The principal concern some people have with guide rails is the hassle factor of having to connect and disconnect them, and a dependable way to ensure they are coplanar.

2) Guess I'm talking rubbish. I love the concept of connecting rails but for me in practice they have not been stable. Glad you're able to make them work but IMO the design of the connectors is the Achilles heel of the rail system, much room for improvement.

Julie, here's a recent thread I had related to this http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/is-the-106'-guide-rail-worth-getting/. I got the 118" guide and am very glad I did

 

[Paul G]

I was surprised to hear the guy doing the video (Tom) say the edges "are not machined straight."  I take that to mean the edges at the ends are not machined square to the long edge.  Is that true?

When my tracks are connected straight the gap at the connection is uneven, so mine are not square.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Cut at 90° at the factory, yes.

Consider that the rails are made from aluminum, which is a soft metal. A drop or other hit on the end of the rail could potentially change the "squareness".

Also, if the rail was cut at an angle off by even tenths of a degree, it wouldn't take much of a margin of error from 90° to make a noticeable difference over the course of 55" or more. If both rails were off by tenths of a degree, that margin of error would be multiplied.

We recommend that you leave a small gap (1/16-1/32") between the rails and use a long, accurate straight edge to check for parallel. That will mitigate any minor imperfections in the squareness of the ends of the guide rails.

 

[JuliMor]

Paul, I read the thread you linked to.  I'm kind of surprised with what I've read.  If you can get the long side of the rail dead straight, making the ends square should be simple.  And with all that Festool puts into R&D, you'd think making connectors for the rails would be a cinch.  That appears not to be the case.  And I don't think any of the comments I've read were after the rail had been abused or someone knocked it out of square.  That's how it was when they bought it.

 

[Paul G]

Paul, I read the thread you linked to.  I'm kind of surprised with what I've read.  If you can get the long side of the rail dead straight, making the ends square should be simple.  And with all that Festool puts into R&D, you'd think making connectors for the rails would be a cinch.  That appears not to be the case.  And I don't think any of the comments I've read were after the rail had been abused or someone knocked it out of square.  That's how it was when they bought it.

In my case the rails were literally brand new, their first use cutting wood. No signs of being dinged or bent. Shanes comment about leaving a slight gap makes sense. Unfortunately for me the connectors could slip if I wasn't careful, and ended up checking linear every time I used it. Maybe I should tighten more, but then there is the dimpling possibility if overdone. None of this takes away from the cut quality though, very pleased with the results.

 

[JayStPeter]

For 8 or 9 years I had two 1400 rails and connectors.  It has worked just fine.  I see the Betterly as a fancy and expensive solution, when a nice jointed piece of wood will work.  The only issue I've had is when I have left the rails connected for a long duration (months).  The expansion/contraction rates of the Al vs. steel have made the little screws very difficult to take out to disconnect the two rails.  Broke the cheesy flathead on my toolie that way.

The reason I bought (and like) a longer rail is the hassle of connect/disconnect to make long and short cuts.  To use a jig to make a square cut on a piece, it's best to use a shorter rail.  With one of each, you use the long for "rips" and the short for "crosscuts".  Just makes the flow easier.  Two short rails is definitely a workable, less expensive, and much more portable solution though.