Oxidation on MFT/3 Aluminum

kelauben

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Joined
Apr 16, 2011
Messages
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I picked up a used MFT/3 a year ago and have made great use of it, but I've always had a problem with the levers to clamps the rail down.  They have to kind of be 'jiggled' into clamping snug.  I've tried adjusting the cam's but that doesn't seem to help.  I took great notice of it at a recent Festool Class in Vegas where the levers were nice and smooth as I was clamping them down.

My thought is since it was stored in the back of pickup and then in a damp, moldy basement before I acquired it, that the aluminum has oxidized a bit and needs some work.  Does anyone have any recommendations as to how best to approach this task?  I'm thinking a lubricated sanding of some sort, but not quite sure where to start.

Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Karl
 
Your post drove me to checking out mine, which has had the same problem for a long time.

I sprayed the mechanism with a PTFE lubricant, and one of the cap screws holding the handle on promptly fell out.  I replaced it and tightened it and it's partner and the cam action is now much better.  I think over time the crews slacken off and the cam is then outside its designed range.

I hold Festool in high regard for their engineering, but the rail clamp is the exception.  I've just received some Park dogs and plan to try that as a solution.

Andrew
 
Forgive me, "Park Dogs"?  I'm not sure what you're referring to.  I've got Qwas Dogs but that's for a different purpose.  Can you point me in the direction of the Park Dogs for which you're referring?

Thanks.

Karl
 
I don't get it, aluminium is not supposed to oxidise. Only a very thin layer (microscopic), which then seals off the aluminium and protects it from further oxidising. A microscopic layer of oxidisation can't interfere with the objects functionality like it does with iron.
 
Alex I'm with you on that.  However, I have a similar problem with the clamp that holds the fence in my MFT/3.  Regardless of what position the cam lever is in, the unit WILL NOT fit onto the table's side rail.  I've messed with it, and finally gave up on it.  There really doesn't seem to be any way to adjust the locking piece down allowing it to fit on the rail.

DrD
 
if you are going to clean up the aluminium ,may be best to use a sisal mop on a drill,it`s not too abrasive and will bring it up to a nice shiny finish
 
Aluminum will oxidize given the right conditions. chalky white to extreme pitting . Keep it clean and polished or let it age gracefully

DWG
 
Boeshield T-9 would be a good lubricant in this instance. It's a dry lubricant originally developed by Boeing to protect against airframe corrosion which is predominantly alloy.



I use this stuff all over the shop on all metals including cast iron tops on my table and band saws.

It is commonly used in wood shops and most good suppliers will have it.
 
Alex said:
I don't get it, aluminium is not supposed to oxidise. Only a very thin layer (microscopic), which then seals off the aluminium and protects it from further oxidising. A microscopic layer of oxidisation can't interfere with the objects functionality like it does with iron.

If it touches with an other metal of different nobility... things might rot on to each other.

This can be experienced with small (inbus  >:() stainless steel screws in aluminum bicycle frames for example.... I never expected I needed a drill, a set of taps, an angle grinder and a titanium drill set to replace a mudgard on my everyday city bike... The first screw came out after a ridiculous amount of force was applied, the 2nd broke with half staying behind in the frame and the 3rd went from hex to round... thus the need to grind a slot in it.
 
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