Padauk Slab Mounting

[JonathanJung]

Hi everyone,

I'm going to mounting a 3" thick Padauk slab, 26"W x ~90"H onto a floor/wall as a little partition. See photo.

Question is, how can I secure it in a way that is not too visible, very strong, and removable?

Does anyone make floating shelf brackets that are easily removable?

Domino connectors: I am thinking mounting a strip of hardwood onto the wall first. This will set into a recess in the vertical edge of the slab. I'd use 2-3 connectors as indicated in drawing. Question is, how deep could I get the connectors from the surface of the slab, so they engage the hardwood strip?

Or other ideas? I may have access under the floor, in the crawl space, to screw up through the floor into the end of the slab.

 

[mrFinpgh]

At first, I was thinking about sliding dovetail connectors but I think  that you would still have a problem of a lot of potential leverage w/ the slab projecting out so far.  It could also be a challenge lifting and positioning the slab to mount that.

I think you should look at routing a groove along the side of the slab connecting to the wall and along the bottom.  I don't know how deep you could go, but go that deep.  2" should be possible. Mount a mating strip to the wall + floor and slide the slab into place.

Honestly, I'm not sure that that much connection is going to be sufficient to resist the potential torque of a 2' wide slab.. but I've never tried.  Maybe someone else can weigh in on the realities of that.

 

[Dane]

Google Striplox connectors.  They are made for this kind of thing.

 

[Michael Kellough]

First determine which way the wall leans. You can’t assume it’s dead vertical. If it leans toward the slab your options are reduced. In that case you can slide the slab toward the wall but probably can’t lower the slab to the floor.

At 3” thick you have plenty of room to make steel reinforced keyhole slots in the bottom so you lower the slab to the floor then slide to the wall (locking the bolt heads into the keyhole).

At the top a heavy L bracket (upside down Unistrut hardware) bolted to the wall can fit into a mortise in the slab followed by a pin/screw/bolt.

When it comes to scribing I’d use a track saw to rip a bevel from both sides to create a shallow V shaped hollow so you can concentrate on the edges that touch rather than the whole 3” thickness. I’d use a pair of shims underneath to allow to slide the slab while fitting to the wall. Air Wedges and a padded hand truck would be handy for laying the slab down to adjust the fit.

I love the aroma of Padouk.

 

[Svar]

Google Striplox connectors.  They are made for this kind of thing.

Yes. Either that or this:https://www.amazon.com/Platte-River...teners/dp/B008PFHBI6/ref=sr_1_21?keywords=bed+hardware&qid=1575750012&s=hi&sr=1-21
The advantage of these two over screw and keyhole, is they pull two pieces tightly together.

I would do simple dowels into the floor. Then, once partition is mounted, a screw or small bracket into the wall on the top edge. So the partition can't be slid up inadvertantly.

I assume the partition is hollow, not a solid block of wood.

 

[JonathanJung]

First determine which way the wall leans. You can’t assume it’s dead vertical. If it leans toward the slab your options are reduced. In that case you can slide the slab toward the wall but probably can’t lower the slab to the floor.

At 3” thick you have plenty of room to make steel reinforced keyhole slots in the bottom so you lower the slab to the floor then slide to the wall (locking the bolt heads into the keyhole).

At the top a heavy L bracket (upside down Unistrut hardware) bolted to the wall can fit into a mortise in the slab followed by a pin/screw/bolt.

When it comes to scribing I’d use a track saw to rip a bevel from both sides to create a shallow V shaped hollow so you can concentrate on the edges that touch rather than the whole 3” thickness. I’d use a pair of shims underneath to allow to slide the slab while fitting to the wall. Air Wedges and a padded hand truck would be handy for laying the slab down to adjust the fit.

I love the aroma of Padouk.

Very good ideas, thank you. The L bracket on top may work, although it would be visible when descending nearby stairs. I think lowering the slab into place may give a better fit than sliding sideways into place.

Google Striplox connectors.  They are made for this kind of thing.

Yes. Either that or this:https://www.amazon.com/Platte-River...teners/dp/B008PFHBI6/ref=sr_1_21?keywords=bed+hardware&qid=1575750012&s=hi&sr=1-21
The advantage of these two over screw and keyhole, is they pull two pieces tightly together.

I would do simple dowels into the floor. Then, once partition is mounted, a screw or small bracket into the wall on the top edge. So the partition can't be slid up inadvertantly.

I assume the partition is hollow, not a solid block of wood.

It's a solid, live edge slab. It won't be lifted up easily. Those Platte River brackets, are they solid? Look a bit like cast steel / zinc.

Google Striplox connectors.  They are made for this kind of thing.

How ridgid / strong are they? Like suggested, this is 26" wide out into the room, so a fair bit of leverage if someone leans on it.

 

[Dane]

Not sure- I’ve not used them in this context- but not much will resist that kind of torque from the wall side.  If it were me, I would use Striplox on the wall, the epoxy two all thread rods into the base and then use Simpson deck post connectors attached to a vertical 2x10 in the crawl space.  Then you’d have a connection that was engineered for deck post loads.

 

[rvieceli]

Need to remember that’s probably at least a 150 pound slab.

 

[Svar]

Those Platte River brackets, are they solid? Look a bit like cast steel / zinc.

They are made of steel, not cast. Made for bed frames, plenty strong for your application. Besides, your partition will rest on the floor, not hang on the wall.

 

[Cheese]

Just curious why it needs to be removable? If you take that part out of the equation the task is a lot simpler.  [smile]

I'd consider using one of those heavy duty hidden shelf brackets down the wall and then lagging in the bottom edge of the slab through the floor from the crawl space.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/678646...MIwuHP9aum5gIViobACh1AdgCdEAQYASABEgIWwfD_BwE

[attachimg=1]

 

[Stunt]

A lot of good ideas here. Those striplox would work on the wall, then you could do a groove on the bottom and simply drop the slab in place.

I was thinking of the metal pipes as used by floating shelves and shown above with a hidden dovetail on the bottom. Slide on the dovetail and into the pipes. A large GRK screw/ lag on an angle at the top to hold it from sliding out until you need it to be moved. Only damage would be to the wall and the dovetail strip on the floor.

 

[JonathanJung]

Thank you everyone, this has really been a game-changer! I've ordered a variety of the Striplox including their template markers. Will test them out before using them on the slab. My plan is to recess the Striplox into the wall, rather than into the slab, to limit the "damage" to the slab.

A lot of good ideas here. Those striplox would work on the wall, then you could do a groove on the bottom and simply drop the slab in place.

I was thinking of the metal pipes as used by floating shelves and shown above with a hidden dovetail on the bottom. Slide on the dovetail and into the pipes. A large GRK screw/ lag on an angle at the top to hold it from sliding out until you need it to be moved. Only damage would be to the wall and the dovetail strip on the floor.

Good ideas. One goal is to avoid having any shown fastener on the top edge, since it will be seen from a nearby stair.

Just curious why it needs to be removable? If you take that part out of the equation the task is a lot simpler.  [smile]

I'd consider using one of those heavy duty hidden shelf brackets down the wall and then lagging in the bottom edge of the slab through the floor from the crawl space.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/678646...MIwuHP9aum5gIViobACh1AdgCdEAQYASABEgIWwfD_BwE

[attachimg=1]

Removable because the client likes to change her mind =) Down the road, if they wanted to use the slab somewhere else, or repurpose it into a side table, the effort would be minimal.

When possible I try to install slabs and slab-resin pieces in a similar way. Currently I'm working on a 84" x 48" myrtlewood slab/resin countertop, which the client wants to remove and have me place on legs for a coffee table, when they eventually sell the home.

Not sure- I’ve not used them in this context- but not much will resist that kind of torque from the wall side.  If it were me, I would use Striplox on the wall, the epoxy two all thread rods into the base and then use Simpson deck post connectors attached to a vertical 2x10 in the crawl space.  Then you’d have a connection that was engineered for deck post loads.

This is is basically what I intend to do, except instead of all thread, I think I will install a block of oak/similar onto the floor, and recessed tightly into the bottom edge. If needed, I can screw up through the floor, through the block, into the slab.

 

[Svar]

What kind of wall is that? Any chance you could drive a long screw through it?

 

[JonathanJung]

Thought you might want to see how it turned out. I completed it months ago but am only getting around to posting here. The customers ended up putting a very nice mirror on it.

3 Striploxs (Striploxxes?) mount the bottom to the floor and 1 Sheppard bracket mounts to the wall. Super strong and not too difficult. Routed out the recesses prior, in the shop, so on site work was quicker.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions!!

 

[Michael Kellough]

Well done! Spectacular piece of wood. Nice place too.

Did you make the hall table?

 

[ear3]

Came out spectacularly!  Hopefully the clients understand the color change that the padauk will undergo given how much light exposure there is in that room?  The only piece of padauk that I've managed to keep close to the original red is on a small side table/radiator cover I built for my bathroom, where there is a single north facing window (looking out across the driveway at the next house only about 15 feet away) and so no direct sunlight.

 

[JonathanJung]

Well done! Spectacular piece of wood. Nice place too.

Did you make the hall table?

The hall side table was made by another local. I made the entire bar and cabinetry.

 

[JonathanJung]

Came out spectacularly!  Hopefully the clients understand the color change that the padauk will undergo given how much light exposure there is in that room?  The only piece of padauk that I've managed to keep close to the original red is on a small side table/radiator cover I built for my bathroom, where there is a single north facing window (looking out across the driveway at the next house only about 15 feet away) and so no direct sunlight.

I hope so too. They had already acquired the slab before I met them, so they were already committed before installing it.