Panelled cabinet doors made of MDF

hopper

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Has anyone made a set of kitchen cabinets (boxes and doors) out of MDF ?  I'm just wondering if it is feasible if the cabinets are to be painted?  The other option would be to build the boxes out of prefinished one side birch ply with the finished side inside and the outside painted to match the doors. About the doors, they could be cope and stick or even mitered corners both joint types being reinforced with dominoes. The panels could be flat (1/4" ply) or raised (3/4" MDF same as rails and stiles).  All opinions are welcomed.
 
I built some 8' high utility cabinets for my shop with 3/4 MDF back when it was $20 a sheet but it's so heavy I only use it now for doors. You can put a profile on the edge that looks decent, I have used 1/4 and 3/8 roundover. It paints well if you take special care on the edges. Be careful if you haven't worked with this, it's very sharp on the fresh cut square edges and will cut you if you slide your hand. I have used MDF with a veneer and stained it to make fairly nice utility cabinets, good for basements, garages, and laundries. I would not use it for anything structural and wouldn't use it for rails and stiles, but it's good for panels, very stable and flat. It's also available as CNC'D raised panel doors from door companies, not too expensive. 
 
hopper said:
Has anyone made a set of kitchen cabinets (boxes and doors) out of MDF ?  I'm just wondering if it is feasible if the cabinets are to be painted?  The other option would be to build the boxes out of prefinished one side birch ply with the finished side inside and the outside painted to match the doors. About the doors, they could be cope and stick or even mitered corners both joint types being reinforced with dominoes. The panels could be flat (1/4" ply) or raised (3/4" MDF same as rails and stiles).  All opinions are welcomed.

You'll have to use a "euro" hinge on an MDF door from experience. Screwing into the "end grain" in MDF means normal hinges won't last very long. But if that was your plan you'll be alright.
 
I built these for the mud room. My wife loves them. I used a router bit from Eagle America, ( one of these and I can't remember which http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v186-5625/ea_-_panel_raisers) and I built a simple template and if I recall the arch for the template was made with my router on a cirlce jig and I chose a radius that was 3-4 inches wider than the door and cut it out of scrap ply then cut that to size and screwed it all together with some 1x material to make a template I could clamp to the door.

Cabinet%20Doors%20MDF_zpsko02o5pi.jpg

I think if I was to do it again I would not cut the MDF to door size but using a full sheet I would screw the template down, Route out the "raised panel" and then when that was done cut the door out of the full sheet of MDF. This would be more stable than the smaller door. Of course I did this before owning an MFT so maybe doing it on an MFT would be better.

Euro Hinges work great and these doors have held up well.

One thing to note is if you make a mistake and your router drifts to the inside and now you have a gouge there is not problem. I just filled it with some elmers wood filler and re routed and after painting no one can tell

I used a round over bit on the outside edge and then ran each side through the table saw wit the blade at about 7 degrees to bevel it in slightly. That worked  fine but since then I purchased this edge bit that does it all in one pass on the router table
180-2825_p.jpg
 
John Beauchamp said:
I built some 8' high utility cabinets for my shop with 3/4 MDF back when it was $20 a sheet but it's so heavy I only use it now for doors. You can put a profile on the edge that looks decent, I have used 1/4 and 3/8 roundover. It paints well if you take special care on the edges. Be careful if you haven't worked with this, it's very sharp on the fresh cut square edges and will cut you if you slide your hand. I have used MDF with a veneer and stained it to make fairly nice utility cabinets, good for basements, garages, and laundries. I would not use it for anything structural and wouldn't use it for rails and stiles, but it's good for panels, very stable and flat. It's also available as CNC'D raised panel doors from door companies, not too expensive.

Why not?

I have made plenty of doors totally out of MDF.  I use MR MDF its a lot better to than regular.

I have actually just made a bunch of doors for a kitchen I just recently made.

Just simple shaker style and I edged them with festool edge bander to save on sanding the edge. Allthough with MR MDF the edges are not to bad for painting.

 
I use Glacier Clear from Plum Creek, because it's NAUF and it's made fifteen miles away.  I wanted a transitional-style doorstyle in off-white paint for my own kitchen, but I didn't want the telegraphing and cracking in painted finishes that happens with our massive humidity swings.  I also didn't want a door that really looked like an MDF door.  I've made other doors with a single bit and the profile is mirrored on the inside of the "stile" and the edge of the "panel".  I decided to make different profiles on the inside and outside.

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In the past I used an adjustable jig that guided the edge of a round router base.  For these, I used scrap solid surface to make jigs for the three widths of panel I needed, then ran top-bearing bits along the inside of the jig.  Here, in the future, If I were ever tasked with making more doors like this I would shell out for the MFS system.

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Sanding was fairly easy, except for feathering out imperfections in the groove by hand.  I really just cleaned it up, then primed twice and cleaned it up more carefully afterward, followed by another coat of primer.  Then two coats of color, and a bazillion coats of water-based poly floor finish.  All done with brush and roller because it was done in the winter and I have nowhere to spray but outdoors.  Timing is everything.

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These doors and drawers are attached to frameless cabs made from 3/4" States NovaPly.  They've been in use for just under three years, and they've held up well.  Certainly no problems with the MDF.
 

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jmbfestool said:
John Beauchamp said:
I built some 8' high utility cabinets for my shop with 3/4 MDF back when it was $20 a sheet but it's so heavy I only use it now for doors. You can put a profile on the edge that looks decent, I have used 1/4 and 3/8 roundover. It paints well if you take special care on the edges. Be careful if you haven't worked with this, it's very sharp on the fresh cut square edges and will cut you if you slide your hand. I have used MDF with a veneer and stained it to make fairly nice utility cabinets, good for basements, garages, and laundries. I would not use it for anything structural and wouldn't use it for rails and stiles, but it's good for panels, very stable and flat. It's also available as CNC'D raised panel doors from door companies, not too expensive.

Why not?

I have made plenty of doors totally out of MDF.  I use MR MDF its a lot better to than regular.

I have actually just made a bunch of doors for a kitchen I just recently made.

Just simple shaker style and I edged them with festool edge bander to save on sanding the edge. Allthough with MR MDF the edges are not to bad for painting.

I didn't say it couldn't be done just that I wouldn't.  If I saw some that looked good and were holding up well I could be convinced to change my mind.  Thanks
 
Thanks for the replies.  Uncle Joe, I like the arched top.  WastedP, those are beautiful cabinets too.  Good job to both of you.
I have made solid MDF doors with the faux panels before.  I was more interested in rail and stile doors.  How strong would MDF be if the joints were reinforced with dominoes ?  If they are going to be painted anyway, why not MDF?
Jmbfestool, I will look into MR MDF.  I don't think I've heard of it before.
 
hopper said:
Thanks for the replies.  Uncle Joe, I like the arched top.  WastedP, those are beautiful cabinets too.  Good job to both of you.
I have made solid MDF doors with the faux panels before.  I was more interested in rail and stile doors.  How strong would MDF be if the joints were reinforced with dominoes ?  If they are going to be painted anyway, why not MDF?
Jmbfestool, I will look into MR MDF.  I don't think I've heard of it before.

MR MDF is strong enough doing the normal style and rail joint using a router cutter but it's not how I do it. I have always used a domino for added strength plus most the style of doors I made have been shaker style so no mould so simple butt joints so a domino is just a simple quick way of joining.

Regular MDF is horrible I have come across decent regular MDF but its a hit and miss if you get some. I told my local timber dealer to keep buying the darker MDF because it paints better and is cheap still but they told me they can't do that because they change suppliers often to get best prices.
So I just buy MR MDF now so I know it paints well.

I did use to make doors out of tulip and MDF panels when painting them but found MR MDF Paints well so decided to make the doors all out of it.

 
John Beauchamp said:
jmbfestool said:
John Beauchamp said:
I built some 8' high utility cabinets for my shop with 3/4 MDF back when it was $20 a sheet but it's so heavy I only use it now for doors. You can put a profile on the edge that looks decent, I have used 1/4 and 3/8 roundover. It paints well if you take special care on the edges. Be careful if you haven't worked with this, it's very sharp on the fresh cut square edges and will cut you if you slide your hand. I have used MDF with a veneer and stained it to make fairly nice utility cabinets, good for basements, garages, and laundries. I would not use it for anything structural and wouldn't use it for rails and stiles, but it's good for panels, very stable and flat. It's also available as CNC'D raised panel doors from door companies, not too expensive.

Why not?

I have made plenty of doors totally out of MDF.  I use MR MDF its a lot better to than regular.

I have actually just made a bunch of doors for a kitchen I just recently made.

Just simple shaker style and I edged them with festool edge bander to save on sanding the edge. Allthough with MR MDF the edges are not to bad for painting.

I didn't say it couldn't be done just that I wouldn't.  If I saw some that looked good and were holding up well I could be convinced to change my mind.  Thanks

Well the client on this job decided to alter the units so I ended up with a spare 400mm unit I made and a 400 x720 door I already sprayed one coat of paint.  Little annoying waste of my time

I'll take a picture of the door and ill test it by hanging of it. See how strong it is.
 
jmbfestool, A picture of the door would be helpful, also did you just cut the mdf the same as hardwood for the rails and stiles? I am willing to try new things but I usually only do that on things for myself to see if they work well before using for a client. I try and stick with tried and true even though there are other ways to do things it keeps me out of trouble. Thanks
 
Like said just a simple shaker style door which had just an undercoat when the client decided he didn't want a unit near the window.  I gave it a quick blast with a top coat and used it in my workshop.

[attachimg=1]

Pictures of me doing a Circus act. I bounced multiple times on the corner to corner to exert more force and I did NOT hear any creaking. Felt solid.

I put some cloth on the floor to protect the corner of door on the concrete. 

[attachimg=2][attachimg=3]

 

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This position wasn't very comfortable!!
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Here you can see the door after I had many many attempts balancing and bouncing on the corner, joints are still prefect no cracks or anything.

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Here you can see the door is back on the cabinet after my circus act.
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I have made framed doors out MR MDF and had no comebacks yet although normally use tulipwood.

I have just finished a big built in made mainly out of MR MDF, customer altered design slightly and I didn't have enough MR MDF for the extra bits so used some standard MDF, had forgotten how soft and fluffy it is, should have waited and got some more MR.

Doug
 
The uncomfortable position looks like a hemorrhoid treatment.
 
John Beauchamp said:
jmbfestool said:
John Beauchamp said:
I built some 8' high utility cabinets for my shop with 3/4 MDF back when it was $20 a sheet but it's so heavy I only use it now for doors. You can put a profile on the edge that looks decent, I have used 1/4 and 3/8 roundover. It paints well if you take special care on the edges. Be careful if you haven't worked with this, it's very sharp on the fresh cut square edges and will cut you if you slide your hand. I have used MDF with a veneer and stained it to make fairly nice utility cabinets, good for basements, garages, and laundries. I would not use it for anything structural and wouldn't use it for rails and stiles, but it's good for panels, very stable and flat. It's also available as CNC'D raised panel doors from door companies, not too expensive.

Why not?

I have made plenty of doors totally out of MDF.  I use MR MDF its a lot better to than regular.

I have actually just made a bunch of doors for a kitchen I just recently made.

Just simple shaker style and I edged them with festool edge bander to save on sanding the edge. Allthough with MR MDF the edges are not to bad for painting.

I didn't say it couldn't be done just that I wouldn't.  If I saw some that looked good and were holding up well I could be convinced to change my mind.  Thanks
My wardrobe doors were made 10 years ago from 18mm normal mdf rails and stiles grooved for a 6mm mdf panel and jointed with loose tenons. They still look perfect with no signs of the joints cracking.

I now use 22mm MR MDF and also use a proper t&g cutter set to make doors.
 
JMBFestool,  that circus act certainly confirms that the MDF joints are strong enough.  I've done some research on the net and by calling some panel suppliers and I haven't found any moisture resistant (MR MDF) MDF here in Canada yet.  Is it available in the US?  I only live 30 minutes from the border and could go over there to get it if I have to.
 
Have you looked for Extira or Medex MDF?  Those are the two brands of exterior grade MDF that I know of in the US.  I had a replacement top for my MFT/3 made out of one of them.  I don't recall which one was used.
 
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