parallel guides for HK55 and 45 degree cut

[Momchil]

Hi all,

i need to build a stair tread that uses engineered hardwood flooring to wrap around marine grade 1.7/8 inch plywood. i need 45 degree 
angle cuts to meet top, bottom and sides of the wrap around engineered hardwood flooring. The face, side and back of treads are 3 inches and need to have 45 degrees angle cuts on all sides. there are a total of 14 steps plus landing, so i need to make very reputable and precise cuts. Table saw is not ideal, so i was thinking of using the parallel tracks but cant see any info on anything but straight cuts.  My question is has anyone used the festool parallel guides with small cut extensions (as i need only 3 inch side strips) for 45 degree angle cuts? Thank you in advance, Memo

 

[Brice Burrell]

It sounds like you are trying to use engineered hardwood as a wrap to cover the stair framing/plywood and you want to miter all the joints.  I don't know how well that will work out.  If that's the path you are determined to take then it sounds like a table saw, and miter saw are ideal.  If you don't have these tool then make a jig to hold your guide rail and material at 3". 

 

[Stephen B]

I may be misunderstanding the task here; but why no use the HK55 rail set at the 45degree indent?

 

[tjbnwi]

I would use the TS-55 before I’d do this with the HK.

90° rip cut or 45° bevel rip cut, makes no difference. The edge of the rail is at the same location on the workpiece.

Tom

 

[Momchil]

Thank you for all your responses! My mistake it is a TS-55. Brice you are correct, that is what i am trying to do. I gave 14 floating treads that would need to be wrapped up on all sides as they are mounted in the middle from bellow on a single steel beam. i was concerned that with table saw and miter saw i might have some small variations, and festool promises that the parallel guides would be dead on.... i thought i can use them to cut my pre-finished hardwood very precisely. However its not clear to me that i can use the parallel guides (kit #203160), track, and TS55 to make 45 degree cuts, and if i can i am not sure how convenient/practical that would be. Thank you all again! All help and advise greatly appreciated!

 

[Brice Burrell]

Thank you for all your responses! My mistake it is a TS-55. Brice you are correct, that is what i am trying to do. I gave 14 floating treads that would need to be wrapped up on all sides as they are mounted in the middle from bellow on a single steel beam. i was concerned that with table saw and miter saw i might have some small variations, and festool promises that the parallel guides would be dead on.... i thought i can use them to cut my pre-finished hardwood very precisely. However its not clear to me that i can use the parallel guides (kit #203160), track, and TS55 to make 45 degree cuts, and if i can i am not sure how convenient/practical that would be. Thank you all again! All help and advise greatly appreciated!

The problem with the parallel guides is you'd need to use the extensions and the saw would be beveled the wrong way.

I also have some concern about a miter on the nose of the stair. 

 

[tjbnwi]

Are you trying to bevel or miter the pieces?

Your description leads me to believe you want to bevel rip the boards.

I do/would use the TS-55 for the bevel rips, I would not use any parallel guide system to do it.

Tom

 

[Master Carpenter]

If your wrapping the marine plywood in finished hardwood, a table saw and miter saw will give more repeatable cuts than a tracksaw. Make sure your fence is solid, if your using a light duty tablesaw back the fence up with clamps once it's set and make all common cuts without adjusting. A  new, sharp rip blade will go a long way to making the cuts easier. When you go to miter, the mitersaw will need a very solid fence with stop block. Basically, you should only be setting each tool once and making all cuts without resetting. Again, a sharp blade on the mitersaw and smooth cutting technique will reduce blade deflection and keep your pieces precise.

I'd make all my cuts just past 45 degrees, about 45 1/4 ish. I had to remove a stop on my portable tablesaw to do this, I keep a digital guage for setting my angles. Another thing to watch out for is seasonal wood movement, you can make perfect mitres today, then the temperature and humidity can change and blow the assembly apart, I like to leave a small gap around my core when building a wood sandwich.

The reason I wouldn't use a tracksaw is how fiddly the stops are, I've made thousands of cuts with mine and it just isn't as repeatable as a well set tablesaw. I might make my first 45 degree rip with the tracksaw if my material was uneven to establish a straight edge thou.

An alternative way for the end cuts is to use a crosscut sled on a tablesaw but that would most likely require a bigger shop tablesaw. I'm not sure what tools you have access to