Parson's joint?

[grobin]

I was looking at Rick Christopherson's Domino manual online today.  I had planed on making some dove tails but the collet in my old router blew up So I had to get an new part.  Then I took my Trion and started roughing out some construction grade pine.  I got that done and decided to try making a Parson's joint like on page 18.  I tried setting the Trion for 45? and running it along a straight edge for repeatability.  Well it wasn't.  No matter how I tried I couldn't cut two 45? bevels in a square piece of pine (well it was supposed to be railing so it had slightly radiused edges).

Manual see p18.

What is the best way to do this?  I have a guide stop for the Trion and guide rails as well as an old MFT800.  I also have a TS55 and probably the right way is to use my band saw.  But I should be able to do it with the Trion just how?

BTW could this joint be made with rectangular pieces?  If so how.

BTW Rick loved your manual very useful!  Thanks a bunch!

Jerry

 

[Rick Christopherson]

You don't want to cut these as a bevel, but as a miter. If you have your blade tilted, it is going to make it even more difficult to cut a straight line. Ideally, this is something you should be using a miter saw for. If that is not available, how about a tablesaw with a 45 degree miter gauge. If that is not available, I believe you said you had a band saw. This could work, but try to rig up or use a miter gauge. If a jig saw like the trion is all you have, then you will have to make due, but I would set up a 45 degree straightedge to guide the saw. Look at the picture of the Kapex shown in the Domino manual. When you cut your second miter to create the point, do it upside down from this picture so the saw has a full surface to ride on.

 

[grobin]

Thanks that's a big help; now it makes sense!  I'll try the stop guide rails and protractor just for a chance to use them that way.  Right now a miter saw is way down my list.

 

[spikfot]

Centuries before all this wacky power-tool stuff, folks used a good hand saw and a sharp chisel. In many instances it's the easiest an most functional solution.

 

[Neill]

Thanks that's a big help; now it makes sense!  I'll try the stop guide rails and protractor just for a chance to use them that way.  Right now a miter saw is way down my list.

Jerry,

Where are you in Colorado?  I am in Parker.  I may be able to help with the miter saw.  If you want, contact me by e-mail.  It is in my profile.

Neill

 

[grobin]

Neill, thanks a lot but I am about 15 mi NW of Cripple Creek and an hour drive from the Springs.  I haven't had time to try the guide rails yet, but if there are problems I may need to take you up on y'r generous offer.  Its not really for a project--at least not yet, more a feasibility study.  I try things is cheap pine before committing to a project.  Still have to find out how to do the dominoes and assemble more than one joint.

Thanks
Jerry

 

[Neill]

Neill, thanks a lot but I am about 15 mi NW of Cripple Creek and an hour drive from the Springs.  I haven't had time to try the guide rails yet, but if there are problems I may need to take you up on y'r generous offer.  Its not really for a project--at least not yet, more a feasibility study.  I try things is cheap pine before committing to a project.  Still have to find out how to do the dominoes and assemble more than one joint.

Thanks
Jerry

Jerry,

You are most welcome.  I have a pretty well equipped shop and would be happy to get together with someone else that is interested in Festool to maybe exchange some ideas over a cup of coffee.

Neill

 

[grobin]

Finally got around to it.  The guide rails would have worked if the scrap I was using (cruddy construction grade pine) didn't have an about ⅛ roundover on the corners.  Left over stair rail.  I had some left over hard maple 1½"x12" and decided to try that using a Nobex miter box my brother gave me.  That worked just great.  I scaled the dimensions by ¾ and the instructions worked just fine.  Luckily I added some lube before I tried to assemble the joint, otherwise it would never have gone together.  After trying I am not sure how practical this would be for actually building  furniture.

 

[Tezzer]

Luckily I added some lube before I tried to assemble the joint, otherwise it would never have gone together.  After trying I am not sure how practical this would be for actually building  furniture.

Those exact methods need some tweaking. Its good for a demo join, but no good in the real world because each piece needs to go together at exactly the same time. Its ok for one join, but if you are making a frame its near impossible.

The easy way out is to domino two rails on the normal tight setting, and one rail on the second widest setting, that way you have room to wiggle it together and strength is not compromised. Below is one of the three way cabinets I have made.

 

[grobin]

I use that on my bookcases.  I was curious about the Parsons joint as a possible way to build a sturdy knock down case.  I agree that trying to put together 4 of those along with tenons joining shelf supports is not going to work.  But its a nice brag and puzzle for other wood workers.

 

[Tezzer]

I use that on my bookcases.  I was curious about the Parsons joint as a possible way to build a sturdy knock down case.  I agree that trying to put together 4 of those along with tenons joining shelf supports is not going to work.  But its a nice brag and puzzle for other wood workers.

Sorry Jerry I was a bit confused as I thought you only had tried only the one practice parson join, and didn’t realise you do them on your bookcases. 

But as shown in my cabinet 4 of them and bottom rails do work.

 

[grobin]

Thanks for the clarification.  I am going to think about it some more but I am going to try some alternates before I go that route.  The first one I made went together but there awere small gaps the next two were fine.  Very picky measurements.  I am drawboring a test piece to see how (if) it holds up.