PDC Drill keeps beeping and cutting out on drill mode

Realised after posting earlier, that had never used PDC for drilling masonry. 
Was bought to replace an old 18v 3-speed B&D 'hammer' drill - that wasn't used much for masonry either. 
Just use SDS all the time now.  But have used drill / hammer modes in the past when have come across 'fragile' masonry. 

So...better try the PDC then.  Phoned the ex, and asked if could drill a few holes in 'her' house. 
Said no.  Why not - I've paid for everything says me.  Must have been some sort of overload - cause phone went dead.  [big grin]

Dug out some masonry bits + PDC and the B&D; up to flat - 40 odd years old reinforced concrete walls. 
1/  5mm bit - speed 2 - went in couple of inches.  Not too bad actually. 
2/  8mm bit - tried speed 2; played with speed 1 & 3 - eventually got to 2 inches; but really struggled.  Think hit a pebble or something.  The bit looked a little clapped out. 
3/  13mm bit - started on speed 2; played with all other speeds.  Stopped once; then broke through an obstruction.  Hard work though.  Got fed up after 1 & a 1/2 inches.   
4/  Just for a laugh tried Makita Nemesis 8mm SDS bit as well.  Not very good at all, it seems, with percussion.  Really like these bits with SDS drill. 

Although drill became quite hot around the collar/gearbox - only cut out once - with the 13mm bit. 
Have remembered that there have been a few posts commenting how loud PDC is in percussion.  Agree - but not as bad as I thought it would be. 

Might try the B&D tomorrow - don't want to upset the neighbours.

Off topic:  any tips for managing intermittently over-loading ex...let me know.  I'm baffled.  ;D

Richard (UK) 

(edit:  I threw the belt clip in a drawer as soon as got drill - don't like them.) 
 
bobfog said:
greg mann said:
I recently put up a mailbox on an ipe post. I bought a swing away stamped metal joint from LeeValley and used my PDC to drive 1/4 inch lag screws. I snapped of several heads before I could get off the trigger. In ipe there is no delay when the head contacts the bracket. I wound up using my makita 18v impact because the PDC was too powerful. All this talk about lack of torque does not coincide with my experience at all. It snapped the 1/4 lag bolts so easy I could hardly believe it. Just went from 2nd to 3rd gear to try to reduce the torque and it still didn't care.

You're right, it doesn't coincide. But then I suppose I've snapped large screws and wood bolts using an old green Bosch DIY drill, so maybe it's not quite the yardstick required to make that judgement.

What also doesn't coincide is that others say the PDC apparently has more control and precision than most competitors. Yet you seem to have had trouble controlling the speed, hence snapping the heads off your bolts. This links in to your Makita 18v impact. Now, even the oldest 18v model impact will have more torque than the 60nm the PDC has, so it must come down to the trigger on your Makita impact is more precise and controllable. (BTW the latest brushless drills from Milwaukke/Makita put out ~130nm and the impacts 200+nm and the triggers are as precise as anything including Festool.)

I posted not to indicate the tool wasn't capable of finesse but to testify that the torque was available if needed. Snapping the heads off was all on me. In my example the Ipe is probably less forgiving than just about anything. Darcy also made that point and I agree. I was in too much of a hurry and, frankly, it was the first time I had put the tool to any significant task. I should have started with a very low torque setting and moved up as required but I did not, so I learned very quickly that the tool was far more powerful than I had imagined. I had pre-drilled the holes and I did not state that previously, thinking that would be obvious. Nobody can sink lag screws into Ipe without pre-drilling, IMO. As far as the impact being more sensitive? I don't think so. It just gave me a bit more warning as the impact frequency changed and I got off the trigger more quickly. I just did not give the PDC a chance to give me feedback because I started way too high and then defaulted to a tool with which I am more familiar.
 

I can snap a screw off in Ipe with my CXS. 

Impact driver impacts, that is a major difference.

I have had to finish off 9" timber locs with my Quadrive because the impact just twists the screw shaft. 

Right tool for the job.
[/quote]

I've needed to finish off some Timberlocks with my Hole Hawg because my impact driver just stalled and couldn't get them home. I didn't have the PDC then so I do not know what it might have done. My impact didn't twist any screws, just stopped driving them home. We had rebuilt an existing support beam under an elevated deck. It had sagged from being inadequate in the first place so we separated the PT 2x10s flipped them over and added a fresh one in the middle. Let's just say the originals were well seasoned and demanded more than my impact could deliver.

Getting intimate with my PDC is a work in process and at this point it is more about me understanding which gear and at what torque setting I should be in.
 
Simon (UK) said:
Exact same happened to me.
Recently charged battery drilling with a 5mm bit into normal house brick. PDC kept cutting out. I checked I was in drill mode and I was. Had to get my knackered out old DeWalt to finish the hole.
I am a bit of a numpty and tend to do most drilling at full speed (learned a lot from the people on here - thank you) so now I know to drop down a speed or two.
I am surprised the PDC can't cope with such a normal task however when doing more delicate tasks it is brilliant. The control you have with it is the best I have come across.
S.

Thats because you just don't know how to use this drill.
NEVER !!! have any problems with my PDC!
 
Noticed mine doing it today using a centrotec countersink bit on speed 4, clutch off.

Doesn't seem right
 
Well, finally used my pdc today. I had a fully charged battery and drilled into brick and had no issues in gear 4 and on drill setting.

Also drilled into a newel post for a screw fixing. Again speed 4 and drill mode using a 3d bit around 5mm diameter. No problems.

Not much of a test but it seems like the initial problems seem to be due to a low battery. Further tests required.
 
Drilled brick today without any beeps or drill stopping. Used my cobalt stepped drill bit to drill metal socket boxes and there was no stopping the drill, ended up with larger hole lol.

Starting to love the pdc again. Glad to say it was a low battery tgat was the cause of the beeping and cutying out.☺
 
Whew - that's a relief. 
Thanks for letting us know how it went. 

Richard (UK)
 
All this talk about concrete drilling is urging me to point out that rotary hammers are for concrete drilling and that the hammer function on a combination drill shouldn't be depended upon for such tasks.  Yes, we all have used the hammer function on these types of drills, with success; but we shouldn't be relying on them nor expecting them to perform optimally.
 
yetihunter said:
All this talk about concrete drilling is urging me to point out that rotary hammers are for concrete drilling and that the hammer function on a combination drill shouldn't be depended upon for such tasks.  Yes, we all have used the hammer function on these types of drills, with success; but we shouldn't be relying on them nor expecting them to perform optimally.

About the only time I use a non SDS drill to drill concrete is if I have a floor mounted doorstop to fit, 6mm hole, red plug, done.

Several of them to do and its out with the SDS.

 
I had a dewalt xr2 18v combi drill for about 13years that never let me down drilling into bricks, all types of solid walls, tiles and occasionally concrete. The dewalt I sold on ebay for a good price. Those NiCd batteries were damn good never let me down and still held over 75% charge when I  sold them. I did however always discharge the batteties fully before recharging.  It worked for me.

Would definitely use my bosch sds multidrill for lots of drilling though.

The issue I had with the pdc was it beeping and cutting out which was of concern as it was not doing what its supposed to do is to drill holes. Luckily  it was a low battery and problem solved. I have to admit I have not used the pdc as much as I used to use my dewalt as I use my milwaukee 18v fuel 2 impact drver a lot even for some drilling using the armeg impactdriver masonary bits. Can help for some drilling but can't  match a drill.
 
I have been using my pdc for a couple of days and had no issues until yesterday the light would not operate when using the drill. I tried another battery but same thing. I can use it manually by turning it on but it refuses to come on automatically when drill is being used.

Has anyone else had this issue?
 
The light on the PDC is not an automatic one.
You have to manually put in on or off using button 1-1.
It's also in the manual although not mentioned so clearly (as always).
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Neeleman, I am sure that my pdc's light has always come on automatically when pressing the drills trigger.  I have been so use to this operation that it feels like a different drill without the auto on light working.
 
No auto light on PDC, as Neeleman said only comes on (and stays on) when you press said button. It does not come on when you press trigger.

Doug
 
I was sure it had an automatic light lol. I must be confused as have been using my milwaukee impact driver a lot recently.

I do notice a slight red blinķ type of flashing in the centre led when using the pdc. Its very feint. This led me to believe  my light was not working.

Looks like another problem solved .

 
tazprime38 said:
I was sure it had an automatic light lol

No its not,on my PDC (as mention before) its NO auto light.

The same LED light on PDC works like LED and Battery indicator.

There is 5 LED, from left to right: "12345" , "1245" for light and "3" (which is on the center) for battery indicator.

All operates when you press green button,NO auto mode.
 
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