Perfect reason for 2 edge guides

Crazyraceguy

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This particular store has a few different items that the others did not, but the same color laminate
This shelving unit is a bit odd. It has no back and the shelves are deeper than the sides, quite a bit actually.
The sides are 6.5" and the shelves are 10". They mount with some wire bars, rather than the typical clips. This requires a groove in the sides of the shelves. I have done lots of these in the past, but never with the shelves sticking out like this. They are normally cut with a 3 wing slot cutter on the router table, but that is with a raw edge, since it doesn't show. Since these are laminated, the slot cutter is out, those things chip-out something fierce.
The wire bars are 5mm diameter, same as the shelf pin holes, but that is a problem. I probably have half a dozen ways to drill a 5mm hole, but a 6" long slot is a different matter. I don't have a router bit like that. Apparently nothing between 1/8" and 1/4"? I thought I had a 3/16", but no?
So, I ended up with 1/8" and making 2 passes. This was the perfect reason to have 2 edge guides for the OF1010. The rods are barely long enough, but it does work. I set one to limit the cut from each side and it worked out great. I even used the 1/8" collet that I got for the S O to hold the bit.
I thought I took a pic with one shelf in place, but I guess not. I'll get some of the whole job, once it is open. This one is pretty close.
 

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Cool, I don't have have extra edgeguides, but I do work on doors fairly often, so I have the of/fh plexiglass template. 
Years ago I encountered a similar problem, had to install an automatic doorsweep that was a bit wider than the kind we usually installed, and by setting the distance from one edge and routing both ways  like you did, it worked out fine with the smaller routerbit. (self-centering aswell)
Could you post a picture of one of those wire rods? (Just curious, I couldn't picture in my mind how they look)

/edit: probably just like shelf-pins, but maybe sturdier, I'm guessing the slot is to slide over te pins, for some reason I thought it was like a metal spline of something like that.
 
Frank-Jan said:
Cool, I don't have have extra edgeguides, but I do work on doors fairly often, so I have the of/fh plexiglass template. 
Years ago I encountered a similar problem, had to install an automatic doorsweep that was a bit wider than the kind we usually installed, and by setting the distance from one edge and routing both ways  like you did, it worked out fine with the smaller routerbit. (self-centering aswell)
Could you post a picture of one of those wire rods? (Just curious, I couldn't picture in my mind how they look)

/edit: probably just like shelf-pins, but maybe sturdier, I'm guessing the slot is to slide over te pins, for some reason I thought it was like a metal spline of something like that.

I don't do this often enough to spring for the plexiglass fixture. It is really cool looking though.
If you look to the right side of the first pic in the series above, one of the wires is visible about a quarter of the way up the side.
Here is one loose too.
 

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Crazyraceguy said:
I figured there was something available, just didn't have one in my collection. After all of these years, I am easing my way into metric. Cutters and guide bushings too.

Well it's interesting to note that even 2 years ago these were not available from Amana. Within the last several years Amana has really picked up the pace in offering router bits in metric sizes. Unfortunately, as much as I embrace Whiteside products, they've struggled with the same issues.
 
Cheese said:
Crazyraceguy said:
I figured there was something available, just didn't have one in my collection. After all of these years, I am easing my way into metric. Cutters and guide bushings too.

Well it's interesting to note that even 2 years ago these were not available from Amana. Within the last several years Amana has really picked up the pace in offering router bits in metric sizes. Unfortunately, as much as I embrace Whiteside products, they've struggled with the same issues.

I generally stick with Whiteside or Amana too, but I have ventured out into Lee Valley and Bosch for metric cut diameters and for 8mm shanks.

Some time ago Peter Parfit did a video about bushings/bits and calculating the offset to work with templates. Of course being in the UK, he does this all in millimeters. Very easy if you can get those items. In the US, that is not so easy.
As I have seen with a few UK or Europe Youtubers, Trend products are far more extensive than we would ever see here. They could probably be imported from a retailer over there?
 
I have used the Domino with a 5mm cutter for this.

I do have multiple guides. It’s kinda weird, the 1010 guide fits the 2200 spacing, the 1400 does not.

Tom
 
This looks like a way more cost-effective approach to the $200 acrylic jig Festool sells!

Thanks!
 
Cheese said:
Crazyraceguy said:
I don't do this often enough to spring for the plexiglass fixture. It is really cool looking though.

You're a creative guy...and you own a Shaper... [big grin]...here's an earlier post where [member=37411]ear3[/member] fabricated his own routing aid and I believe he released files on the Shaper forum.
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...exiglass-router-template/msg598091/#msg598091

I really should look into doing something like that. The acrylic is a bit spendy too though. I did look at the link you posted and it seems to me that the side fences don't really need to be acrylic? That is the place where the "thickness" would be required, not only for the stability, but to be able to hold the hardware. You could probably get by with some wooden fences and some connector bolts? The type with woodscrew threads on one end and machine screw threads one the other, along with some knobs, seems like it would do the same thing. The router base itself wouldn't necessarily have to be acrylic either? but it seems like that is the tradition.
I could get some more width adjustability from building one. The rods are barely long enough to do this with the 1" material in this job. If it needed to be in something much thicker, it would take longer rods.
Seems to me that the rods for the OF1400 are longer? but aren't they bigger diameter too? I'll check that later today.

Also, the first reply to the topic in the link was that you could do exactly what I did, 2 edgeguides.  [huh]
 
Yeah, for $200 I might have considered buying one, at nearly $400.....nope.

Adding 3/8"-1/2" (Festool's is likely 10mm) to the base is not ideal for tiny bits either. The 1/8" bit that I used is also 1/8" shank and very small overall, probably less than 2"? I'm cutting about 3/8" deep here so that might be a problem too?

Since there are going to be more of these, I'm going to look for a 5mm bit to do it in one pass, then only one edgeguide would be needed anyway.
 
For rods, you are best ordering accurate stainless rod(s) from wholesalers who sell to manufacturing shops.

You can cut to length as needed and even make multiple sets cost effectively.
 
mino said:
For rods, you are best ordering an accurate stainless rod(s) from wholesalers who sell to manufacturing shops.

You can cut to length as needed and even make multiple sets cost effectively.

That's exactly what I did...I purchased a 6' length of stainless rod from the local metal supplier and cut some of it into these long rods for the 1010.

[attachimg=1]
 

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Replacement rods don’t have to be 8mm, 5/16” is close enough, and cold rolled steel is good enough for this purpose.
 
[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] said, “You could probably get by with some wooden fences and some connector bolts? The type with woodscrew threads on one end and machine screw threads one the other”

Hanger bolts
 
I was half right. The rods from the OF1400 are indeed longer, over 50% actually.
The OF1010 measure about 10" and the OF1400 are about 15 1/2". I'm sure they are really the metric equivalents of each, but close enough. The finish is different though, which I find strange. All of the ones that I have for the 1010 are shiny, probably bright zinc? and the ones from the 1400 are black oxide?
 

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