Pillasters and wainscoting project

[J Buckley]

Hi All,

Was hoping for some design help. I am tyring to design and then construct a set of pilasters and capital for a dining room. Each component will have recessed panels. I am designing curved rails as the header for the entrance frame.   [Wanted to attach a pic from Sketchup but struggling to figure out how]Was hoping someone may have some suggestions on the best material and approach to creating curved rails.  I am thinking of routing (with a pattern bit) from a larger piece of stock to create 2" wide curved rails, but not sure if there is an easier approach?  

I am making the pilaster out of 2” face frames (poplar) which will wrap the wall around from the inside (dining room) to the outside (foyer). both interior and exterior room wall will have a 3/4” backer for the face frames for added depth and presence.

Pocket joining the face frames and using domino’s to miter the pilasters around the wall.  I have seen use lock miterr, but not as comfortable with that.  Has anyone had issues only using dominos on outside corners for longer runs with the joint opening?

I am attaching the rough design in sketchup for a visual. Would appreciate any suggestions.  

The face frames are 2”x2”x3/4” poplar. The pilaster is approximately 9’ and the curved section would be approximately 22” accross the horizontal/rail>

 

[J Buckley]

Here are my pics

[attachimg=#]

 

[J Buckley]

Sorry still learning...

[attachimg=#]

 

[J Buckley]

[attachimg=#]

 

[nickao]

I like clear poplar for paint grade. If the budget is super tight I guess a better quality MDF would work.

 

[Guy Ashley]

I would use the same timber throughout so there is no visible difference.

As for the curved sections create an MDF template and use a bearing guided router bit in a router table.

 

[richard.selwyn]

I've got to quote for some similar type of stuff to match existing mouldings in a golf club. They are kind of square recessed mouldings a bit like the picture in this thread. I was thinking I could rout MDF ( they are all going to be painted by a professional painter) but would have to square the corners by hand. The other way I thought of would be to build up the moulding with strips fixed with glue and a 23g pinner. Any suggestions gratefully received!
Evades,
Richard

 

[Guy Ashley]

Richard

If you go for the strips (laminated option) use Cascamite, and lots of clamps!

If you use normal PVA you will get spring back!

 

[AlexR]

Little trade tip for you. Use super glue for MDF or moulding work, not tiny expensive domestic tubes, the 50g bottles with aerosol activator (mitre fast etc). You spray the backing board with activator put glue on the moulding and hold together for 10 seconds and jobs done no clamps no pins no filler. For large pieces do a perimeter line of glue then with zigzag between to save on glue. You'll be quite surprised how far that 50g glue goes. I've made up cornicing with layers of mouldings etc , wainscote and painted shaker doors like this and you have to destroy material to get them apart.

 

[richard.selwyn]

Thanks for the tips
Richard