Pinner recomendation

G

gpl916

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Joined
Sep 15, 2012
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29
Hi All,
I am looking for a recommendation for a pinner. The main use in the immediate future is for a house full of wainscoting/ architectural panels that I don't want to have to fill nail holes (paint grade).

The pinner will need to hold 3/4 popular nailed over 1/4" plywood while the adhesive holds. There is not necessarily any studs/ backer under where the stiles and rails will go, just the ply and drywall.

The poplar will have a profiled edge and I am planning to shoot the pins through the molded profile at an angle to provide a little more grip. I will use PL adhesive for the main holding power.

Will a 23g pin provide enough grip to hold the trim while the glue dries? Or, do I need a 21g with or without the head?

I am looking at the Grex 635 or a Cadex 21g.

Thanks for any info!
 
I have no complaints with my Grexs, 23ga pinner and 3/16 head stapler, 18ga nailer, and 7/16" head stapler.
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

I am looking for feedback on whether the 23ga would be adequate for the job that I need to do rather than brand recommendations.

Will it hold the poplar securely enough to form tight lines until the PL dries, or do I need to step up to a 21ga (or even 18)? Remember I will be shooting through the profile so it wont go through 3/4 poplar, more like 1/2 at the edges

The goal is to not have to fill the holes. I own 16ga, 18ga, and staplers.

Thanks!
 
In your application - merely holding wood in place while the glue dries - then, if everything is flat, I think you could get away with a 23 pinner.

I have the Grex and it works great.  Even my thumb agrees.  (Darn those hurt.)

Peter
 
It's a matter of technique. Alternately angling the pins slightly works best; that way there is more holding power. Also: try to use not too much glue. Thinner layers of glue set up faster and there is less movement when handling the parts.

You could also use a fastener-less method: spot glue with CA (and matching activator spray, maybe) and woodglue on the rest. The CA holds it in place as son as it works after a few seconds of holding the parts in place under pressure.
 
Peter and Bert,

Thanks for the replies. I went ahead and ordered the Grex 635. It will be handy to have around the shop no matter what I do with this project.

I was thinking about using just adhesive as you recommend Bert. I think it would have to be something that sets a little slower as fitting some of the 8' or 10' runs as well as making sure the shorter sections are aligned perfectly would require some working time. I have the PUR hot melt too. Maybe buy a slower set hot melt glue?
 
Unless your molding is very flat and or flexible it will be difficult to get it tight on the wall with 23 gauge pins alone. I’d try the Festool wings and spring sticks from across the way to push the molding against the wall to give the glue time.

I do second Bert’s CA tip. One of the nice features of the headless pin is that you can use one to keep on end of a long molding in place while you test the other end. If you need to mod the loose end you can simply pull the wood off the pin with little or no damage then pull or break the pin out of the wall.
 
I have the grex and cadex 23 as well as the cadex21. I want to love the 21 but always grad the cadex 23. It’s so smooth and I love the fact I can fire a headless or headed pin with the same gun. If your cadex 23 fires like mine you won’t be upset and will absolutely love it. FYI I shoot mainly 1” and 1-3/8 pins into cabinet grade maple with no problem sinking them. And I use the senco 1010 or rolair sys compressor

Dave
 
I picked up a Hitachi 23g nailer on Amazon for $88. So far it’s worked flawlessly. Very happy with it.
 
Is the wainscot tongue and groove?  If so, why not install traditionally with a nail or staple in the tongue?

If it is not T&G, I think you will still want to brace it as was suggested above.
 
It is not traditional frame and panel. I thought just covering the whole wall with 1/4 ply and then just overlaying the rails and stiles was easiest. It is an entry way and I am installing it 8' high to start. I may end up running it all the way to the ceiling which is around 17'. That would be the issue with using spring boards- I don't have anything to prop them against in most areas.

Again thanks for all the replies.

g
 
When you drive the pins, drive them next to each other on slight opposing angles. This “pinches” the pieces together.

Tom
 
"When you drive the pins, drive them next to each other on slight opposing angles. This “pinches” the pieces together."

Thanks, that's kinda what I was thinking. But having no experience with pinners so didn't know. I can always suck up the (hopefully) few spots that are not flat with my 16ga and then fill those.
 
Grex has a great.  Kind of spendy last time I looked.  They were the first ones on the market I think, and they got it right.  All the cheaper ones were said to be quite bad.  That was many years ago and I think there has been improvement to the cheaper ones.  Still, if nothing but the best will do, Grex may be it.  I have a Porter-Cable that works  acceptably. 
 
I received the Pinner the other day. It does seem like a quality piece of kit. Received my shaper cutter too so on with the project next week!
 
I have the Bosch 23g which is great. No problems at all except some kid thought it was a cool looking gun and hid it upstairs for a week.

I'd prefer the Senco 21g due to holding power with what I understand as a similar sized hole.
 
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