Planer

[b_m_hart]

I'm considering getting a relatively compact planer that can handle 10 to 12 inch wide boards.  I don't have room for a "real" planer (as in, dedicated stand / floor space), and figured this would be a good place to look for some feedback.

For example, how well would something like a Delta planer work?  I figure I can use the TS 55 for jointing.  I thought about the Festool planer, but it seems pretty limited in terms of dealing with wider pieces of wood.

 

[poto]

I have the Rigid TP1300 13 inch planer. I think it's a great bang for the buck. I haven't used it a huge amount, but it gives a great finish. I have no complaints. In reviews, it tends to be ranked right up there with the best, and costs hundreds less.

 

[josephgewing]

I have had a Delta planer that has worked well for 13 years.

Dewalt has a good planer that is highly rated.

I would also look into the Craftsman planer with the digital read out.  I put a Wixey digital reader on my Delta and would never go back.

Joe

 

[tvgordon]

Most recent magazine reviews have rated the DeWalt and Delta planers near the top of their list.  I bought a Delta years ago (last I checked it was still sold as their cheapest planer - it was their only planer when I bought it) and my only complaint is snipe. It produces a smooth finish and has enough power for light cuts in wide oak boards.

If I was going to buy a new portable planer and money wasn't a problem, I think I would buy the DeWalt.  The two speed Delta would be my second choice.

Tom.

 

[Loren Hedahl]

I use an old Ryobi 10 inch that I bought from a woodworker neighbor when he upgraded to a new DeWalt.

What I like about it is the thick, wide blades are resharpenable in my Tormek.  What I don't like is the amount of snipe I get at the ends if I don't take extra steps.  What I've found works best is to cut your pieces long enough to accommodate the snipe at each end.  Another way is to fool the machine by inserting a short piece of scrap ahead of and behind the keeper board.

I think the newer machines have improved a lot in this area.  But mine is still running fine and is paid for!

 

[Per Swenson]

Poto has it right.

Except I would rank the rigid not right up there but at the top.

I have one that was originally in the shop then became tasked with

the on the job tool.

I have beat this tool like a red headed step child,

(I have no idea where the term comes from, but it fits)

Never once has it not suited up for work or given us a problem.

Now if you do a search on the great gizoogle on issues with both

the the delta and especially the dewalt, there are many.

No issues on the ridgid.

The only reason I can see why "some" sniff at the rigid is due to the fact that it is a Home Creepo brand.

So, Absolute best bang for the buck. Ridgid.

So tell us what you really think, Per 8)

I think magazine reviews are heavily influenced by the advertising between the pages.

Remember you can write and review what you want...then there is the editor.

My 2 dollars, formerly a nickels worth.

P.

 

[ccmviking]

I'm sure they'll all work fine for you.  I have the Dewalt 735 setup on the dewalt stand and think it's great for it's relatively small footprint.  It does a great job of collecting the chips if you get the optional chip collector that ties on to a large plastic trash can.  It has a blower built in that throws the chips out.  Mine has never failed and I get great life from the blades.  You should probably just get whatever fits best in the space you have.  They are all pretty heavy... I went with the stand because I didn't what to haul it around.  It's very easy and nice to just roll it where I want it and roll it back.

Chris... 

 

[Tinker]

  I figure I can use the TS 55 for jointing.  I thought about the Festool planer, but it seems pretty limited in terms of dealing with wider pieces of wood.

I have the Festool hand planer.  I use it quite a bit for flattening one side.  i set the blade to cut about as thin as possible.  set up with a couple of winding sticks, hit the high spots.  Once i get the one side flat, I run the board thru my DW (forget the #, but it is the older model) and with a few passes, i have a flat (parallel sides) board.  Then I square up the edges with my AFT 55.

Sometimes, I use the HL 850 for planing glued ups that are wider than my 12" DW will handle.  With care, you can get nearly perfectly flat.  At the point I am working on wider than 12", the pieces are already close to purfect.

Sometimes, it is quicker to use hand planes and scraper to get flat and less apt to create problems where no problem exists.
Tinker

 

[rwdawson]

Per wrote:

I have beat this tool like a red headed step child,

(I have no idea where the term comes from, but it fits)

Perhaps this will help:

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_did_the_phrase_%27beat_you_like_a_red-headed_stepchild%27_come_from_and_what_does_it_mean

 

[Dave Rudy]

Kinda what you love and hate about the internet -- lot's of interesting stories; nothing you can count on.

 

[ken257]

I also vote for the Ridgid. One thing to consider is that you may find yourself in need of blades at a very inconvenient time so make sure that blades are available at a local store for which ever planer you choose.

 

[Loren Hedahl]

  I figure I can use the TS 55 for jointing.  I thought about the Festool planer, but it seems pretty limited in terms of dealing with wider pieces of wood.

I have the Festool hand planer.  I use it quite a bit for flattening one side.  i set the blade to cut about as thin as possible.  set up with a couple of winding sticks, hit the high spots.  Once i get the one side flat, I run the board thru my DW (forget the #, but it is the older model) and with a few passes, i have a flat (parallel sides) board.  Then I square up the edges with my AFT 55.

Sometimes, I use the HL 850 for planing glued ups that are wider than my 12" DW will handle.  With care, you can get nearly perfectly flat.  At the point I am working on wider than 12", the pieces are already close to purfect.

Sometimes, it is quicker to use hand planes and scraper to get flat and less apt to create problems where no problem exists.
Tinker

I look at, handle and fondle a HL 850 at my local Festool dealer regularly.  I would have no problem affording one, but I haven't been able to understand yet why I should be asked to pay 3 to 4 times what a Makita, Bosch, Ridgid or whatever would come to.

I understand it will plane up to a blind edge.  But have never had the need.

You can make a rebate with it.  But I own a router (or three).

It has a jointer attachment.  But I could make a jig, if I thought I needed it.

It has a spiral blade.  But one blade costs as much as four for a straight blade.

So there has obviously been something I've overlooked.

And I need enlightening, since I recently gave my old Makita away to my favorite son-in-law.

 

[dirtydeeds]

you have answered your own questions

and youve given it away, so you havent overlooked anything

here on the planet alien

i use the rebating facility when installing traditional external doors

the bottoms need a rebate to fit over the waterbar set in the cill

its quicker than any router

 

[Per Swenson]

Loren,

A suggestion, but first I have a Makita and a P/C.

The P/C is in a milk crate somewhere around here, haven't seen it in ages.

The Makita?  I use to love that thing. Still do, but it will hence forth be used

mainly for straighting bent studs in framed walls.

The Festool 850?  Loren, all I can say, (you said your self moohlah was not a problem),

Go buy it, use it for a couple a days and if it don't work out for you. Return it.

Nothing I write here will convince you its worth the airfare.

But I'll make a side bet. You will keep this tool.

Per

 

[tbellemare]

I have customers that use the Festool undulating planer head to distress floors, etc. It looks like tedious, hand work when finished and is quick. Apparently it saves tremendous time and effort.

Tom

 

[suds]

I looked at the Rigid for $379 vs the $470 for the Festool 850.  Is there extras you'd have to get with the 850 to make it comparable to the Rigid? 

 

[Steveo48]

My 22 YO Ryobi planer still does a fine job, I've only replaced the blades 2x.  It is used at home though, I must point out, but it still gets a workout on hardwoods.

Steve

 

[UCLA Fan]

Just my 2 cents ( I think that is about .00000000001 euros?)

I have the Dewalt and love it. In the fine mode it leaves a very smooth surface and the chip collection is excellent when using the "trash barrel" collector. In addition, I find my power hand planer (Bosch) to be of very little value when compared to a 13 inch planer. Just surfaced 200 bdft of walnut using the Dewalt - all exactly the same thickness and only took about an hour. Would never use a power hand planer for that job, too imprecise and too tedious. The labor lost would pay for a 13" planer twice over. Love the hand planer for hanging doors etc... but not a comparable surfacing tool.

On a side note I do lots of "rustic" type work so I will most likely pickup the festool planer with the undulating head - a nice feature that can't be beat! But I will continue to use my 13" planer for all dimensioning.

 

[vkumar]

What is a trash barrel collector?

Vijay

 

[UCLA Fan]

Hi Vijay,

Ok the Dewalt has an available hose and open ended bag that can be attached to the top of a Garbage Barrel. It works great. Catches almost all of the large shavings. It does let the fine dust escape so I still wear a mask or use it outside but that collector saves a lot of cleanup.

http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/attachment_detail.asp?productID=6360