Kee Squared
Member
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2016
- Messages
- 7
Pizza Steve said:Was there any insight as to why a warranty would get voided by this usage? And is it a Planex warranty issue or the CT 36 AC warranty?
Compared to a real floor sander, the Planex is far too light in weight and way too slow. However, for tight spots and narrow spaces where you would have to use an edger or Rotex due to the constricted space, it has been used by people here as a standing floor sander to help keep the user off their knees.Cross-cut Canuck said:mmmmm.....wondering now if could redo harwood flooring.....![]()
Glad it worked out for you.Kee Squared said:No one should bear down on a sander. You let the sander do the work. If you're not achieving the results you are looking for change the grit of sand paper you're using and work your way back through to the grit you wanted to achieve in the first place. I used the planex to sand my deck using 180 grit sand paper found it wasn't working so I chose to go to 120. I realise the limitations of tools and once again I chose to not use a coarse grit with the planex fearing that yes it might be to much for this impressive tool.
All in all. I probably won't use my planex to sand wood again because of the replies I've gotten from fog about potentially burning it out.
My back felt great lol.
Festool sells the coarse grit Saphir for the Planex for cleaning up dropped Drywall compound or other type plaster droppings off a subfloor of a construction site, plus maybe that glue removal you mentioned. Refinishing floors is another thing.... [wink]Nigel said:Hmmm I was perusing the instruction booklet today and it mentions carpet residue or something along those lines so obviously the Planex is intended for other uses than just plaster based jobs.