Please help me plan and critize my garage

Sjur

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Aug 14, 2014
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Hello friends!

I am currently planning out my outlay of my garage, and would very much appreciate some insight from you guys. Here is a 1:23 drawing of the garage:[attachimg=1] I'll probably be posting an actual picture tomorrow. While I have a relatively good understanding of woodworking (if I may so myself), I haven't had much hands-on experience at actually working in a modern-type workshop.

I wish to have everything planned out perfectly from the start, which I realize is a tad unrealistic, as I will probably have to redo some things later on. At any rate, I have gathered pictures and looked at numerous videoes, but I find it really hard to choose when I also have to plan layout, without even having any experience with this. I read that you should plan your garage with workflow in mind, however, what's important to me is having everything placed out so each individual worktable and machine maxes out on performance.

I have planned to build Askwoodman's (Allan Little) version of the MFT.
askwoodman-ultimate-work-table.jpg

It looks like to be a very good starter piece to learn to use new tools and techniques, but also act as a very good and stout worktable, with lots of options. The only negatives I can see with it is lack of mobility and that wood dust is going to fall into the drawers.

I also want to build a workbench that houses my Kapex. However, to make it harder to plan, I also have a bandsaw and a Walker Turner radial drillpress that could gain an advantage with having another workbench as an outfeed/supporting table. The drillpress is best placed near the top of the drawing, as the wall goes further in, making the arm of the drillpress use space that's less useful. (It's rather humid in there as water leaks down, so I won't be placing cabinets there).

So, I guess what I am wondering is.. What has worked out for you (type of table(s), sizes, how many tables, etc.)? Do you have some recommendations for me?

Sjur
 

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greg mann said:
Will youcombination machine include jointing and planing capabilities?

Greg, the combination machine is a 5-1 by Minimax. It includes a TS, shaper, jointer, planer and horizontal router. :)
 
Sjur said:
greg mann said:
Will youcombination machine include jointing and planing capabilities?

Greg, the combination machine is a 5-1 by Minimax. It includes a TS, shaper, jointer, planer and horizontal router. :)

Well, based on that, you don't need any advice from me.  [not worthy]

Just kidding. As long as your combo has adequate space for infeed and outfeed I think you have the start of a great workplace. No one ever gets it perfect in one shot.
 
I would possibly switch the lathe and grinder with the lumber storage.  Otherwise looks like a good plan.
 
Wooden Skye said:
I would possibly switch the lathe and grinder with the lumber storage.  Otherwise looks like a good plan.
The reason I set it up like that is because there's a window behind the lathe, and having shelves there would be impossible. Otherwise a much better solution indeed! :)
 
Wooden Skye said:
I would possibly switch the lathe and grinder with the lumber storage.  Otherwise looks like a good plan.

I was going to suggest the same thing so that metal filings don't get onto the stored lumber.

Will the bandsaw be movable? So that it can be pulled out for work on odd shaped pieces?

Seth
 
My suggestion is to put as many of your tools and workbenches on wheels as possible. This makes it super easy to move it around, even if you seldom do it, you'll be glad you did when the need arrives. Especially in setting up a new shop since you make change your mind about how you want certain things and it'll be relatively easy to move it as you see fit.

Think about the placement of your outlets as well. Hope that helps.
 
I suggest that you plan on incorporating dust collection into your plan from the beginning.

Jack
 
I'd personally switch it about quite a bit. I'd put the lathe in the back most corner with a curtain and the grinder to it's right. Panel separating the space where the Kapex currently is and place the wood store there. Position the Kapex and the bandsaw down your longest wall with the bandsaw nearer to the doors.

To me this gets the timber away from the door, gives you the opportunity to close off the lathe and allows for virtually unlimited lengths of timber to be run through the bandsaw and up to the KAPEX station.

Sanding, finishing, assembly over near your main electrical.

I love that bench design. Can't wait to see that in the flesh.

 
Lucky you to build a new workshop from scratch.

Looking at the Askwoodman's version of the MFT the first thing that comes to my mind is, that one of my main drivers of improving my own workshop was getting rid of open drawers and shelfes. They collect dust like magnets.

I would suggest to build the frame in a more "closed" way (don't know wether this is the correct word in english...).

Please keep us in the loop as your workshop evolves from plan to reality.

Gerald
 
Just woke up, nice to see the responses!

SRSemenza said:
I was going to suggest the same thing so that metal filings don't get onto the stored lumber.

Will the bandsaw be movable? So that it can be pulled out for work on odd shaped pieces?

Seth

The bench grinder is a large pedestal-model with dust collection built in. I don't think it will release that much metal, but I have definetly given it some thought.

I hadn't thought about odd shaped pieces. Definetly going to put wheels on it.

hobbes said:
My suggestion is to put as many of your tools and workbenches on wheels as possible. This makes it super easy to move it around, even if you seldom do it, you'll be glad you did when the need arrives. Especially in setting up a new shop since you make change your mind about how you want certain things and it'll be relatively easy to move it as you see fit.

Think about the placement of your outlets as well. Hope that helps.

Yep, wheels is definetly into consideration, but the floor is uneven, so having wheels on the long miter stand is going to make for a nifty solution. Also, I've seriously considered having wheels on the MFT table, but then it doesn't become as stout. Perhaps I'll make a mobile base on it later on.

I haven't wired the garage yet, but my brother is an automatician, so he is helping me with the wiring. However, I need to know where the machines are actually going to be and how many amps they're going to draw before I ask him to do anything.

jacko9 said:
I suggest that you plan on incorporating dust collection into your plan from the beginning.

Jack

Yeah, Jack! I forgot to put in the dust collector. It's 1HP and has bag filters, so it's definetly up for an upgrade. I'm thinking of making a cyclone later on (cheapest cyclone here in the country costs $3000). I can put the cyclone in the garage next door in order to minimize noise, and maximize space in my garage, but like I said, it's later on. But thanks for bringing it up.

However, one thing I'd like to ask - where do you guys have your dust extractor? I was originally thinking I'd have it directly underneath the kapex, and just take it out and use it for the sander and domino when I need it. But I'm thinking I'm going to use the sander and domino more than the kapex, and making making a mobile base such as this  with a boom-arm (I have other ideas in mind aswell):
tumblr_m17oalKycV1r4kbc4o1_500.jpg

mobile-vacuum-station-plans.jpg


Kev said:
I'd personally switch it about quite a bit. I'd put the lathe in the back most corner with a curtain and the grinder to it's right. Panel separating the space where the Kapex currently is and place the wood store there. Position the Kapex and the bandsaw down your longest wall with the bandsaw nearer to the doors.

To me this gets the timber away from the door, gives you the opportunity to close off the lathe and allows for virtually unlimited lengths of timber to be run through the bandsaw and up to the KAPEX station.

Sanding, finishing, assembly over near your main electrical.

I love that bench design. Can't wait to see that in the flesh.

Thanks for the critique, What you're saying sounds like a very good plan. I had originally thought about placing the kapex and the bandsaw on the long wall, but at that point in time I had a long belt sander. Long story short - I ended up mounting the wood storage shelves on the wall where I drew them now. I'm going to ask my dad and see if we will move the shelves. It's better to do it early on, instead of irritating myself over it for years to come.

About the bandsaw, just want to make sure you understand correctly. The 780measurement is the entrance door, while the garage door doesn't actually have a door in it (it's relatively old). Either way, I plan to replace the garage door with an insulated wall with windows to allow more light in, but also allow longer pieces being pushed through.

However, your plan leaves less room for the dovetailer machine and the radial drill press. I'll try to draw this out and I'll post a progress pic!

Sjur

 
Gerald said:
Lucky you to build a new workshop from scratch.

Looking at the Askwoodman's version of the MFT the first thing that comes to my mind is, that one of my main drivers of improving my own workshop was getting rid of open drawers and shelfes. They collect dust like magnets.

I would suggest to build the frame in a more "closed" way (don't know wether this is the correct word in english...).

Please keep us in the loop as your workshop evolves from plan to reality.

Gerald

You raise a good point. When I'm going to build it, I'm definetly going to look for ways to making the frame more closed, as I'd also like to have silica moisture absorbing packs (If that's the word for it) in each drawer.

Sjur
 
Sjur, I made a cyclone with a metal drum, ducting, piece of ply, M10 studding and a pot of epoxy - total cost £60c. It works incredibly well and allows for easy removal of chips. One of the big benefits is I get to vent the remaining dust to the atmosphere so no dust is recirculated.

I actually installed the extractor and cyclone in an adjoining room to minimise noise.
 
Sjur, I will echo the comments on dust collection, this is an absolute necessity for your combo machine to function properly.  Consider how you will run your ducting such that it doesn't interfere with the garage door operation.  Also consider how you will dispose of the woodchips - easy access to an outside door is most convenient.  I also like having the dust collector in a separate room as they do make a substantial amount of noise.
 
shed9 said:
Sjur, I made a cyclone with a metal drum, ducting, piece of ply, M10 studding and a pot of epoxy - total cost £60c. It works incredibly well and allows for easy removal of chips. One of the big benefits is I get to vent the remaining dust to the atmosphere so no dust is recirculated.

I actually installed the extractor and cyclone in an adjoining room to minimise noise.

Where do you live? I found that ducting was going to get really costly. Do you mind posting a picture of your setup? Sounds really interesting. My brother is able to buy fans at commercial prices, so I got that going for me, which is nice :) While I'm able to have the cyclone in the adjoining garage, I'll still have to vent it back into the main garage. The wall between the garages is 50cm thick concrete, so I'll have to borrow some equipment from work to core drill.

Nevertheless, the guy that has been using the combination machine previously (I bought it second-hand) has been using the same type of dust collector as I plan to use, without any significant problems.

Steve Rowe said:
Sjur, I will echo the comments on dust collection, this is an absolute necessity for your combo machine to function properly.  Consider how you will run your ducting such that it doesn't interfere with the garage door operation.  Also consider how you will dispose of the woodchips - easy access to an outside door is most convenient.  I also like having the dust collector in a separate room as they do make a substantial amount of noise.

Yeah, the garage door is a big bummer. We have a long and narrow shed that might be able to store the 4.5m wide garage door. My father works with rehabilitation of big buildings, so he said he is able to get some windows if we decide to remove the garage door and place a wall there instead.

Disposing the woodchips won't be a problem at all. If I have the cyclone in the adjoining garage, all I have to do is open the garage door and have the dust bin on some wheels.

Sjur
 
Sjur said:
Where do you live? I found that ducting was going to get really costly. Do you mind posting a picture of your setup? Sounds really interesting. My brother is able to buy fans at commercial prices, so I got that going for me, which is nice :) While I'm able to have the cyclone in the adjoining garage, I'll still have to vent it back into the main garage. The wall between the garages is 50cm thick concrete, so I'll have to borrow some equipment from work to core drilling.

Nevertheless, the guy that has been using the combination machine previously (I bought it second-hand) has been using the same type of dust collector as I plan to use, without any significant problems.

I'm in the UK, South West Wales. Ducting can get costly when you start adding up all the component parts but it is worth it in my opinion. I went with metal ducting as I found a good price and felt it a more permanent solution. I'd be surprised if your brother can't get hold of equally priced ducting if he can get fans.

My cyclone is now fixed itself so no real detailed pictures to show. I fitted in a corner in the next room and insulated the surround to further minimise noise. There is a manual magnetic switch on the front mostly as an emergency override as I’ve also fitted (and still tweaking) an auto-switch solution using an Arduino board, relays and current transformers. The drum is suspended with the base about 800mm above floor level. There is a Thien baffle inside the top of the drum and this exits straight up via the centre of the drum to a 2hp extractor which in itself vents to the outside onto a large field (about 3/4 acres which I own so no annoying of neighbours). The input of the system feeds a 4" duct at an angle into the top of the drum, offset against the exit;



This is where it’s housed. Note the metal gate at the bottom of the cupboard, this is a very large blast gate that I got from a ventilation shop that was getting rid of old stock. I use this to empty the drum into bags placed underneath;



And this is one of the rooms that holds my main stationary tools (table saw, spindle moulder, band saw, planer / thicknesser, etc). Note the ducting all connected to a common exit which feeds into the next room;



I picked up two drums from a local farmer for around £12. This included sealable lids and they were fully cleaned out. If you find any logistics company in your area they are likely to have something similar or perhaps the plastic barrels. The system took  weekend to complete, was incredibly simple and cost effective. I looked at commercially available cyclones and there are some really good ones out there but I couldn't bring myself to spend that much on what is essentially a funnel. Google Thien baffles, as long as you follow the advice and basic maths you really can't go wrong.

Apologies for the picture heavy response. Hope this helps.
 
No need for apologisies, that was great! I have been looking at a Clearvue cyclone unit, and when I saw they offered free shipping, I contacted them and asked them if it accounted for me. It did not, but they were able to reduce the shipping to $200, which I conlcuded was still too much. Also, that setup required 6" or 8" ducting, which also added to the price. 4" is a lot easier and cheaper to buy.

I checked out the norwegian version of craiglist, and I am able to buy some plastic drums (to collect the dust with) for about $30.
24_129192209.jpg

Are your barrels in metal? Have you experienced any wearout on the barrel as a result from the dust?

On another note, I like the reflecting material you have in the ceiling! :)
 
Here is the updated version of the garage.

[attachthumb=1]

So far I'm very happy. If I need more space to feed lumber through the combination machine, I'll simply move it more left and next to the worktable. The sliding arm will usually be smaller in size, I only drew it that large because I will need that space when I cut sheet stock. I am going to make a table over the CTL (like the one I posted earlier), and have it next to the drillpress and have it act as a supporting table if I need.

I also have an old metal cabinet (About 50 drawers for screws, nuts, miscellaneous), that fits perfectly underneath the electrical cabinet in the top right corner.

Also, here is a picture of the drill press, just for reference. I've already taken it apart and stripped it for paint and grease.
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Ideally you want to think of the workshop as a conveyor belt. So ideally you want to think of what tasks you do first from bringing in the timbers to the end product going out of the door at the end. You don't want to pass a machine to do a task and then come back to that machine as it is wasted steps. If it was me I would have it so the kapex or cross cut system was first machine I passed to cut the timbers down to rough sizes. Then the timbers would go through the bandsaw if needed. Then it would go to the planer thicknessor then onto the spindle moulder. In your case you combination machine would do them tasks. Before going to the work bench I would cross cut to the final size to  get rid of any snipe or test mould at the start. Assemble on the bench
 
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