Plug-It-izing non Festools

[Crazyraceguy]

For me using the Festool sleeved hose/cord combo with a pigtail adapted tool is a pain because the the power cord can’t retract far enough, or the pigtail is too long. I could open the tool and shorten the pigtail but then I’d loose the very nice crimped ends on the wires.

Here is the original belt sander.

That's really wild looking. I have never seen Holz-Her hand tools of any kind, only large industrial machines (Edge banders, dowel inserters, and the like)

Much like Paul does, I move the Plug-it cable and tool hose between tools as I use them. I don't use a sleeved hose though, they seem to bulky and stiff to me. I just wrap a velcro strap around them at the tool end, near the Blu-tooth button. That makes it easier to slide the cable in or out as needed. Some tools need more slack because the connections are further apart. The sanders have them very close together, but the DF500 and MFK 700 need to separate them a little more.
The two tools I would most like to have the Plug-it ability are the RAS and the Lamello Zeta.
Definitely first world problems, but annoyance none the less.

Do you really think I could get ahold of an AEG one? Where?

 

[Michael Kellough]

Here is a thread from a while back about the Festool belt sander.

 

[xedos]

For me using the Festool sleeved hose/cord combo with a pigtail adapted tool is a pain because the the power cord can’t retract far enough, or the pigtail is too long. I could open the tool and shorten the pigtail but then I’d loose the very nice crimped ends on the wires.

You can always tin the ends with solder

- or -

make your own ferrules:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Ferrule+Crimp+Tool+Kit&i=tools&crid=293KANNR0OD2P&sprefix=ferrule+crimp+tool+kit%2Ctools%2C98&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

 

[Von T]

Has anyone put a plug it adaptor or DIY version of, on a Metabo SXE 150 sander?
I had a look at the supplied cord yesterday and it's got an earth wire connection too, but I'm unsure whether thats needed as the tool has a fully plastic casing  ???
I'd ideally modify the tool to take a plug it connection directly, but that looks too complicated to do without some 3d printing.

 

[kmalone]

After the Plug-It socket housing arrived, I took the Lamello apart. The cord was easy enough to remove. It is held in place with a rubber cord cover with grooves that slide into a two piece plastic clamp. This little plastic clamp extends just beyond the housing as you can see in the first pic. The goal was to not modify any original parts to make the Plug-It work. So, I dug around in the miscellaneous parts drawer and found a hard plastic garden hose attachment which perfectly sat over the small ring on the back of the housing and gave enough clearance for the Plug-It to sit proud of the orginal cord clamp.

I used JB Weld plastic bond to attach the Plug-It to the "extender" piece, and the same to attach the extender to the Lamello housing. After connecting the wires and installing the housing, a quick successful test with no explosions, and this is job done!

Now I will need to do a little modification to the Systainer form to account for the larger rear end, but that should be a pretty simple task.

 

[Jason.L.Hagen]

After the Plug-It socket housing arrived, I took the Lamello apart. The cord was easy enough to remove. It is held in place with a rubber cord cover with grooves that slide into a two piece plastic clamp. This little plastic clamp extends just beyond the housing as you can see in the first pic. The goal was to not modify any original parts to make the Plug-It work. So, I dug around in the miscellaneous parts drawer and found a hard plastic garden hose attachment which perfectly sat over the small ring on the back of the housing and gave enough clearance for the Plug-It to sit proud of the orginal cord clamp.

I used JB Weld plastic bond to attach the Plug-It to the "extender" piece, and the same to attach the extender to the Lamello housing. After connecting the wires and installing the housing, a quick successful test with no explosions, and this is job done!

Now I will need to do a little modification to the Systainer form to account for the larger rear end, but that should be a pretty simple task.

How is this working? Any issues? I’ve been debating if I should go cordless or corded on the LaMello. Still trying to see if I can find a battery adapter so I could use my Festool batteries.

 

[Sevian1s]

I’ve swapped out the cords on a few of my tools, and one thing to double-check is how the strain relief sits with the new plug. On some tools, the housing doesn’t clamp down quite right, which can make things less secure. Also, make sure the wiring inside has enough space so it doesn’t get pinched when reassembled. I’ve found that using a power socket instead of hardwiring gives way more flexibility.

 

[luvmytoolz]

Has anyone put a plug it adaptor or DIY version of, on a Metabo SXE 150 sander?
I had a look at the supplied cord yesterday and it's got an earth wire connection too, but I'm unsure whether thats needed as the tool has a fully plastic casing  ???
I'd ideally modify the tool to take a plug it connection directly, but that looks too complicated to do without some 3d printing.

Technically being all plastic you could forgo the earth wire with no impact. I've seen some people doing a short lead with the connector to avoid messing with the tool body. That Metabo looks like a rebranded Mirka Deros?

 

[onocoffee]

What about taking, let's say the socket housing from the DF 500 and then finding a sleeve from the electrical parts supply that would fit around it and make a whip that way?

 

[Packard]

I accidentally ran my Porter-Cable circular saw over the electric supply cord.  I got an extravagantly high price to replace it. 

So I cut off the damaged section and added a plug to the now very short cord (about 12” long).  I used heavy duty extension cords to add usable lengths. 

Depending upon the device, 6”, 12” or 18” might be the best length.  With the circular saw, I trimmed it to the point where it would be impossible to cut it again.  If I screwed up again, I would damage the extension cord. 

But do choose a cord that matches the original in gage.  So if the original was a 12 gage cord, then the extension cord should be 12 gage also.

In practice, this arrangement functions almost exactly as the Plug-it.  It is a smart fix if you accidentally cut the cord, but I have not brought myself to deliberately cut a cord short to make this “upgrade”. 

If you are doing so, then add a female socket to the trimmed off section and use tha as the “extension cord”. 

I’m happy with my 12” shortened version.  I think 6” would work as well.  On the circular saw, I would not go much longer than 12” or I might accidentally cut it again.

With a corded electric drill, I would imagine anything over 3” would work fine. 

But note, if you extension cord is loose fitting, the cord can unplug itself.  My cord has a nice tight friction fit, and I have not had an issue with it.  I have no intention of changing it.

 

[johnmpf]

Maybe we could use Neutrik PowerCon TRUE1 connectors.  They make a male / female pair.  NAC3F and NAC3M locking connectors.  16a or 20a, 250v rating.  Outdoor rating as well.
Just over $10 each.