Plunge Saw 55 vs 75

Don Corleone

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Nov 13, 2019
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I want to buy a track/plunge saw. Any reason why I should get one over the other? I understand that the 75 is a little heavier, has a bigger capacity, bigger blade; that's all straight forward. Seems like the extra capacity of the 75 could come in handy one day (although I can't remember cutting anything thicker than 2" with a circular saw. Also, why is the 55" track more expensive to buy with the 75 vs the 55?

I am simply a hobbyist working in my garage. Thanks.
 
The TS75 kit comes with a longer track, 75" vs. the 55" track that comes with the TS55.  Being larger, the TS75 needs a longer track than the TS55 for the same length of cut.

The saws are very similar, except for the size of course.  The differences I can think of is that the depth indicator on the TS55 has both base and track scales, vs. the TS75 has a single scale.  The splinter guard on the TS75 doesn't work well for thinner stock.

Which one to get depends on what you planning to use it for.  If you want it to cut sheet goods, the TS55 is very good.  If you want to cut thicker hardwood, then that TS75 is a good choice. 

 
Either way you go be sure to get and use the right type of blade for the cutting.

Seth
 
I went through a similar decision making process last week, and bought the TS 75 EBQ-Plus.  I plan on ripping some 65mm walnut and cherry slabs this year, and the TS 55 doesn't have the depth of cut.  I have plenty of Festool track, so I didn't buy the version that comes with the track. 

I'm not concerned about the weight, since the saw will be in the track while I'm using it.

I also bought the Panther 16-tooth blade for ripping, part number 493196.  The saw comes with the 36-tooth universal blade, but as I learned with my Bosch saw with a similar blade, it struggles when ripping hardwood.
 
Thanks for the comments, all. Rmhinden, the blade diameters vary by 2", so I would think that the cut length would vary by 2" at the most. Also, when I add a track to the saw (I am on toolnut's site), a 55" rail added to the 55 add $100 to the price whereas the same added to the 75 is $145. I believe the tracks can be used on either saw, so if true, it's not a difference in price due to track width or something like that.
 
Don Corleone said:
Thanks for the comments, all. Rmhinden, the blade diameters vary by 2", so I would think that the cut length would vary by 2" at the most. Also, when I add a track to the saw (I am on toolnut's site), a 55" rail added to the 55 add $100 to the price whereas the same added to the 75 is $145. I believe the tracks can be used on either saw, so if true, it's not a difference in price due to track width or something like that.

[member=48572]Shane Holland[/member]

I just looked. There is something screwy with the price drop down.

  Also, regardless of the 2" diameter difference it has to do with the length of the base plate on the saw.  You will want the 75" track for the TS75. 

Seth

 
In 10+ years of TS55 ownership I have never wished I had purchased the 75. Obviously sometimes I could have done with the 75 for the extra cut depth, but unless you’ll regularly need the extra cut depth, I think the extra weight will piss you of more than occasionally needing a deeper cut.

I also buy a lot of blades as I like the right blades for the task and typically buy new blades rather than pay and wait for sharpening that (in London) isn’t too far away from cost of new blade. . I mention this because I feel like the 75 blades cost a lot more and if I was fronting this cost, as often as I do, it would annoy me rotten that I was spending 50%+ extra for depth of cut I didn’t need. . .

Obviously if you need the extra cut depth that’s your decision, but if you don’t then I’m sure you’d regret the 75.
This comes from a professional, daily user,  opinion. If you are an occasional hobbyist, then maybe the one tool for all cuts approach makes more sense (if you can afford it).

Just another opinion to add to you thoughts :)
 
My first ts saw was a 75 and it works great, but I have had the Tsc-55 for about a year now and I haven’t used the 75 since.
I must say though, I have been cutting mostly sheet goods with the 55.
As was said, the weight of the saw doesn’t mater once it is on the track.
I’m glad I have both and whatever way you go,you will be happy.
Charlie
Ps. I also have the HKc-55 . Also if you get a 55” rail,opt for the LR one with the holes,never know if you may get a router and LR-32 kit in the future .

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
Don Corleone said:
Thanks for the comments, all. Rmhinden, the blade diameters vary by 2", so I would think that the cut length would vary by 2" at the most. Also, when I add a track to the saw (I am on toolnut's site), a 55" rail added to the 55 add $100 to the price whereas the same added to the 75 is $145. I believe the tracks can be used on either saw, so if true, it's not a difference in price due to track width or something like that.

[member=71687]Don Corleone[/member] [member=1619]SRSemenza[/member]

Nothing screwy with our website.

That's Festool's pricing for those combinations. They only allow dealers to offer a discounted price on the 55" rail with the TS 55 and the 75" rail with the TS 75. Any other saw/rail combinations offer no savings and the rails are full price.

Shane
 
My first Festool was  TS75 an it served me well for several years. I bought a TSC55 a few years ago and that saw has been outstanding so far. I might suggest that if you are  doing S3S 8/4 or thinner stock. It has plenty of power and excels at sheet goods. The corded 55 might also serve you well. I do not own one as the TSC is so good and I have a red branded equivalent.

The new Emerald Edition is appealing with the extra blade so consider that package if going the 55 route.

As others have said, but the tool you need for the majority of tasks or if you have the means, get them both so you have the right tool for the task. Also, consider a couple of different lengths. The 1400 and 1900 are my two most used rails. A longer 3000 helps make things more efficient than joining rails for long cuts and I recommend it. The shorter 800 is also useful at times.
 
Like most things, go bigger than what you think you will need.  Murphy’s Law....can’t count how many times I’ve come close to the TS75’s maximum cutting depth...I also have the HKC and while I love this cordless “track saw”  its power and depth of cut just can’t compete with the TS75.  If the “weight” is an issue, then you should get it anyways because you are WEAK!  It’s a tool, not heavy at all.  [wink]
 
TXFIVEO said:
If the “weight” is an issue, then you should get it anyways because you are WEAK!  It’s a tool, not heavy at all.  [wink]

Weight is always a factor when people choose tools, although weight is also a relative term. The Kapex is an outstanding example where many of its owners favorably voiced about its lighter weight compared to all others available in the market. CTs, sanders, domino joiners etc. are also categories of tools which weights matter if you use/haul them regularly or for a prolonged period of time.

Granted, if you need the cutting capacity of a TS75 a lot more (as defined by the user) than that offered by the TS55, it is the model to go after. There's a reason why hammers come in all sizes...even though a sledge hammer can meet 99.99% of hammering needs.
 
I have both. The 75 is mounted in a CMS. I bought the 75 CMS just incase I needed the extra debth of cut. Ive never needed to use the the 75 out side the CMS and its been 7 Years of owning both
 
Don Corleone said:
Thanks everyone. I've decided to go with the 55 and save a few bucks.

I got a TS55 first and that was about 5 years ago.  Just about a year ago I had a project and needed a TS75 because the TS55 (no matter the blade) would not make the cut (hard maple).  So now I have both but still use the TS55 more often.  Good luck with the new saw.
 
The weight difference between the two is minimal...but the depth of cut and motor power are vastly better on the TS75.  While I can get away with using the HKC55 75% of the time, I just couldn't handle 25% of the time having to flip pieces, etc to get the full depth of cut.  TS75 wins everyday for me.  Murphy's Law, it will be inevitable that the 55 just won't cut deep enough on an important project and that would be frustrating. 

To each his own....but for me and my workshop, bigger and stronger  [big grin]
 
Well, it's been a couple months now and even thought I haven't used it much and haven't pushed its capabilities, I really like this saw. Mostly I have been cutting pine and ply glue up panels around 1-1/2 thick. While it's softwood, it cuts more smoothly than any other circular saw I've eve used. The plunge action is great. Thanks again for everyone's thoughts.
 
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