Plunge saw blades

[Darren1972]

hi do i need to buy a universal saw blade or will thefine tooth one they supply with the ts55 plunge saw cut 18 mm osb boards ok thanks

 

[HaKLc]

I tried with fine tooth saw blade and cuts were quite clean. It's not the best option but was fine for me because I only had to make few cuts.
Would rather go with universal blade.

 

[Phil Beckley]

hi do i need to buy a universal saw blade or will thefine tooth one they supply with the ts55 plunge saw cut 18 mm osb boards ok thanks

Hi Darren
Go with the 28t if cutting on a regular basis. OSB can be very abrasive and the 28 has the correct tooth pitch for 'flake board'.
Rg
Phil

 

[jmac80]

What blade would be best for plasterboard sheets?

 

[Davej]

A cheap trend one

 

[tjbnwi]

What blade would be best for plasterboard sheets?

Assuming you mean gypsum drywall not fiber cement board, the 48 tooth with the saw set at 5 works the best in my experience. Does no harm to the blade, gypsum is very soft and not very abrasive. I've cut many matched piece by stacking and gang cutting.

If you mean fiber cement board (works on plaster also) you need a PCD tooth blade, below is the link to the CMT blade on Tool-Home's website. The link is for the 4 tooth, Tom has the 8 tooth also. In some locations you can get the Festool PCD blade.

http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/25163

Tom

 

[Darren1972]

hi do i need to buy a universal saw blade or will thefine tooth one they supply with the ts55 plunge saw cut 18 mm osb boards ok thanks

Hi Darren        Thankyou phill i will get the universal as ime cutting them osb boards all day long ps love your utube vids
Go with the 28t if cutting on a regular basis. OSB can be very abrasive and the 28 has the correct tooth pitch for 'flake board'.
Rg
Phil

 

[Darren1972]

Thanks guys universal it is then ....ps i only use a stanley knife on regular plasterboards i only use a saw on foil backed or poly insulated boards

 

[CrazyLarry]

A little OT I know...

If you mean fiber cement board (works on plaster also) you need a PCD tooth blade, below is the link to the CMT blade on Tool-Home's website. The link is for the 4 tooth, Tom has the 8 tooth also. In some locations you can get the Festool PCD blade.

http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/25163

Tom

You cut it dry? I don't doubt it's quick and accurate but what about dust?
This isn't a bit of sawdust!

I've always gone to the effort of getting a wet diamond tile saw setup for hardieboard.
Seems like overkill perhaps, but when there's 3 - 4 walls and a floor to do it has a lot of advantages.

Even with an extractor on, the fibres would concern me on a dry saw! Perhaps you get to cut outside all the time?

L

 

[tjbnwi]

A little OT I know...

If you mean fiber cement board (works on plaster also) you need a PCD tooth blade, below is the link to the CMT blade on Tool-Home's website. The link is for the 4 tooth, Tom has the 8 tooth also. In some locations you can get the Festool PCD blade.

http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/25163

Tom

You cut it dry? I don't doubt it's quick and accurate but what about dust?
This isn't a bit of sawdust!

I've always gone to the effort of getting a wet diamond tile saw setup for hardieboard.
Seems like overkill perhaps, but when there's 3 - 4 walls and a floor to do it has a lot of advantages.

Even with an extractor on, the fibres would concern me on a dry saw! Perhaps you get to cut outside all the time?

L

Yes, dry. Connected to a CT the dust is minimal, less than cutting wood products. I cut inside or outside job dictates where I'm going to cut. If it is a siding job, outside, if it is tile backer, inside if the space allows it.

Wet cutting the FC is more of a mess than the TS/CT combo will ever be.

I've cross cut FC with the Kapex also.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Thanks guys universal it is then ....ps i only use a stanley knife on regular plasterboards i only use a saw on foil backed or poly insulated boards

If you ever get a job where you need a multiple of one size piece, try the TS. I had one job needed 48 12" wide by 12' pieces. Stack 12 12' sheets, marked there top sheet, cut through 3, blade marked the 4th. Done in less than 10 minutes with no clean up.

The bags in the CT will plug with this fine dust, something you learn to look for, open the CT, tap the bag (if it is a Mini or Midi close the flap), once the bag has been jarred go back to cutting.

Tom

 

[Holmz]

...
Yes, dry. Connected to a CT the dust is minimal, less than cutting wood products. I cut inside or outside job dictates where I'm going to cut. If it is a siding job, outside, if it is tile backer, inside if the space allows it.

Wet cutting the FC is more of a mess than the TS/CT combo will ever be.

I've cross cut FC with the Kapex also.

Tom

^This^

If there is no vacuum on the saw it looks like snow blower scene from a Bond film, but with is only a puff at the begining and end.

The egdes come out nice, and if one is only removing 1/2" it is possible. It is hard to take off only a small amount with a stanley knife on the thick fireproof drywall.
Plus it seems easier for me.

I always get a raised eyebrow, when people see me do that so I do not think it is common.

 

[DB10]

...
Yes, dry. Connected to a CT the dust is minimal, less than cutting wood products. I cut inside or outside job dictates where I'm going to cut. If it is a siding job, outside, if it is tile backer, inside if the space allows it.

Wet cutting the FC is more of a mess than the TS/CT combo will ever be.

I've cross cut FC with the Kapex also.

Tom

^This^

If there is no vacuum on the saw it looks like snow blower scene from a Bond film, but with is only a puff at the begining and end.

The egdes come out nice, and if one is only removing 1/2" it is possible. It is hard to take off only a small amount with a stanley knife on the thick fireproof drywall.
Plus it seems easier for me.

I always get a raised eyebrow, when people see me do that so I do not think it is common.

I'd use a stanly knife if the cut is more than 50mm wide and a hand saw if less, by far the quickest, go steady and it will take off half inch. I wouldn't cut plasterboard with a TS.

 

[Holmz]

I cannot afford a handsaw.

But I sometimes use the jig saw for it too.

 

[tjbnwi]

...
Yes, dry. Connected to a CT the dust is minimal, less than cutting wood products. I cut inside or outside job dictates where I'm going to cut. If it is a siding job, outside, if it is tile backer, inside if the space allows it.

Wet cutting the FC is more of a mess than the TS/CT combo will ever be.

I've cross cut FC with the Kapex also.

Tom

^This^

If there is no vacuum on the saw it looks like snow blower scene from a Bond film, but with is only a puff at the begining and end.

The egdes come out nice, and if one is only removing 1/2" it is possible. It is hard to take off only a small amount with a stanley knife on the thick fireproof drywall.
Plus it seems easier for me.

I always get a raised eyebrow, when people see me do that so I do not think it is common.

I'd use a stanly knife if the cut is more than 50mm wide and a hand saw if less, by far the quickest, go steady and it will take off half inch. I wouldn't cut plasterboard with a TS.

I use a utility knife and other tools on general drywall installs. The edges are not as good as the edge the TS will produce.

No way a hand saw is faster or neater than the TS. The hand saw leaves you with torn face paper and a pile of dust to clean up.

Try one of these for your narrow rips;

http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Rippers-Strippers/Heavy-Duty-Drywall-Stripper.html

Tom

 

[DB10]

...
Yes, dry. Connected to a CT the dust is minimal, less than cutting wood products. I cut inside or outside job dictates where I'm going to cut. If it is a siding job, outside, if it is tile backer, inside if the space allows it.

Wet cutting the FC is more of a mess than the TS/CT combo will ever be.

I've cross cut FC with the Kapex also.

Tom

^This^

If there is no vacuum on the saw it looks like snow blower scene from a Bond film, but with is only a puff at the begining and end.

The egdes come out nice, and if one is only removing 1/2" it is possible. It is hard to take off only a small amount with a stanley knife on the thick fireproof drywall.
Plus it seems easier for me.

I always get a raised eyebrow, when people see me do that so I do not think it is common.

I'd use a stanly knife if the cut is more than 50mm wide and a hand saw if less, by far the quickest, go steady and it will take off half inch. I wouldn't cut plasterboard with a TS.

I use a utility knife and other tools on general drywall installs. The edges are not as good as the edge the TS will produce.

No way a hand saw is faster or neater than the TS. The hand saw leaves you with torn face paper and a pile of dust to clean up.

Try one of these for your narrow rips;

http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Rippers-Strippers/Heavy-Duty-Drywall-Stripper.html

Tom

Didn't say a handsaw is faster or neater than a TS, I said for narrow cuts I go steady with a hand saw, score the board first then use a pretty fine handsaw at a low angle and there will be little rip. what I said is I wouldn't use a TS on plasterboard as I couldn't think of an occasion where I would need such an absolute perfect edge on plaster board, edges are usually covered by something.

 

[Cheese]

[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member]
That ripper is an interesting tool. I assume you used one pre-TS days and now you probably don't have a need for it, correct?

 

[tjbnwi]

I still use the ripper for general installs. I use the TS when I need matched pieces for soffits and other items.

Most often I cut drywall while it is on its long edge leaning against the wall. Square and knife is the way to go when the drywall is in this position.

Tom

 

[Darren1972]

I still use the ripper for general installs. I use the TS when I need matched pieces for soffits and other items.

Most often I cut drywall while it is on its long edge leaning against the wall. Square and knife is the way to go when the drywall is in this position.

Tom

I agree i cut them all day long with a stanly knife and my marshaltown 1200 t square easy peasy