plywood euro cabinet door edgebanding

Don Ashley

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Hi, I am making a bathroom vanity out of Jatoba plywood. I have experience with frame and panel cabinets (made our kitchen) but have not made any flat slab plywood doors. I am concerned about the durability of veneer edge banding for a door. I have used it for cabinet sides but they see as much activity as a door front.

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Here is what I am trying to make. Not exactly, but that style. I don't want thick edge banding to mess up the look of the continuous plywood grain.  What do you all use? I have a domino and have also thought about the matched router bit sets so I could trim the hardwood more closely.

Thanks,
Heather
 

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h.gil said:
What sounds better for your situation is solid wood edging recessed into the edge of the plywood. There are a couple of bit styles available, after a quick search on leevalley.com this came up:
Excellent tip!
 
Heather,

I just rip thin strips of solid matching wood and glue with thick cauls then use a block plane to carefully trim and edge bevel.  I try to remove as much as I can of the glue squeeze out before it sets.  I also like the router bit undercutting unless the thin veneer starts to tear or separate from the substrate.

Let us know what works for you, I like the clean look of straight grain door fronts.

Jack
 
Hi Heather,

Most of the cabinets that I build are euro style and edge banding has become quite easy to do and long lasting.  If you are making you own cabinets, are you finishing them or are you using pre finished plywood?

I do my build and edge band my cabinet fronts, doors & drawers. You can get pre glued edge banding that you iron on, cut then lightly sand (so it does not catch on your skin)  Then when I finish stain/clear I make sure the clear covers (incapsulates) the edges so they don't come off.  Truly the easiest  and best way.
Good luck

Marc

 
h.gil said:
What sounds better for your situation is solid wood edging recessed into the edge of the plywood. There are a couple of bit styles available, after a quick search on leevalley.com this came up:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=50698&cat=1,46168,62157

This is the professional approach. There are a number of different profiles and the best require some machining of the plywood edge and you make up edging strips with a mirror image inner machining along the glue interface. It lasts for ever and can take knocks.

Peter
 
She says she has a Domino.

Why not use that to fix the solid edging to the ply and then flush trim with the router? (Instead of getting a matching bit set to do the same thing)
 
Thanks for all the ideas. I looked as some similar cabinets today at a cabinet store and it looks like they were done with pvc wood grain glued on. I was not impressed. They looked like they would peel off.

I think I may do the wood veneer on the cabinet box and see how it looks. I will be using unfinished ply/edge so as Marc said, the edge would be sealed in.  Still considering the domino, at least on the long grain edges. I would have to leave the band pretty thick.  I like the price of the MLSC set, and I can get them from Amazon with free shipping. 

Too many choices!

Thanks for the advice, I will be sure to post photos.

Heather
 
Another option would be to edgeband MDF first with solid wood 3/32" then veneer the faces and backs. This covers the edges and gives a strong bond that isn't going anywhere.

The drawback is having to veneer by hand, BUT the look ends up better then the pre-placed 4x8 panels....most times [big grin]
 
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