Pocket Hole Joinery

sae said:
The K4 and K5 have dust extraction too. It requires a $4 Bosch adapter if you want to use the Festool hose though.

I switched to all Torx and hid my Robertson bits. :)

sae - do you or anyone else have the part number for the adapter? I've been switching out hoses on my CT to mate up with the kreg jig. It would be great to have this adapter!

Rod
 
The Fein hose adaptor fit festool perfectly.  I trimmed the tapered end some and it fits the kreg quite snuggly to the point where the snap in cover on the K5 pops off before the hose ever falls out.
 
I used the Leigh Jigs P/N 5040 Small Hose Adapter (comes as part of the VRS package for the SuperJigs).  It fits over the Festool 27mm hose connector perfectly, and the other end slips right into the Kreg jig.  I haven't found it necessary so far, but if desired, one can cut off the smallest step of the 5040 for smoother air flow. 
 
Hi I use the ukj jig and its fantastic. Really well made, all metal. The dust port works with my festool vac really well.
I have no issues with screws fitting by the way. you can buy a really usefull clamp that hooks into a pocket and aligns the two pieces square while you put the first screw in. Also the whole thing can convert to just the pocket hole block which you can use away from the bench anyway you like. Really recommend! Good luck..
 
The Kreg Right Angle Clamp is more than just useful. It is absolutely essential and transforms the whole operation, turning an unscrewed joint into a precise, firm-as-old-effluvient, locked-up entity that doesn't move when you transfix it with the screws.
31z08VV30GL._SX425_.jpg

RAC.jpg


The UJK version
502710_xl.jpg
(only seen it in the shop) apparently has a ratchet and quick-release mechanism,
but is far too fiddly for real world use, IMHO. The Kreg uses the standard Mole/Visegrip mechanism and latches on like a pitbull that's been surprised with an annual Intruder and goes down to whatever preset depth one has umm, pre-set it to - with a one-handed squeezy action.

The UJK device looks like it needs holding with one hand and tightening with the other while the components are immobilized by some other method, say another pair of hands or maybe, a clamp... (!!). Speaking as one who has sometimes had to hold a flat piece of wood with one hand, a vertical with the other and the clamp with... the other, other hand, I can see nothing but hurt coming from not having a one-handed, juggleable system.

Take a look at the throat depth of the Kreg vs the UJK. I've often had to use mine at full stretch. It's a no-brainer, sorry.

The RAC is simply necessary.

Face-frame alignment is still a pain though. The supplied with the jig face frame clamps are just too feeble to hold components intimately enough to prevent the bits jacking off (?) One either needs a big 'un, or a bench-mounted alternative. The Irwin wobbly-headed 11" clamps have caught my eye and will be my next purchase. A large, sanded coin hot-glued onto one or both pivoty faces should do nicely. I'll report back if it works as well as I imagine.

In my experience the actual (insanely expensive in Britain) Kreg screws tend to give a less jacked-apart joint than threaded-to-the-hilt varieties. I tend to use roundhead Quicksilvers and suchlike for el-cheapo projects and keep the Kregs for "proper" furniture or stuff using thin stock but then I'm a cheapskate with no shame. Nevertheless I bought a second Kreg RAC and it was money well spent.

My jig is the no longer available Axminster original which was, I believe a rebadged Dakota featuring all metal construction and it comes in a wooden box with the basic stuff inside. The adjustment is stepped in 1/4" bites so intermediate thin stock sizes ideally need shimming up off the aluminium base with a scrap of hardboard which can be kept in the same box. Dust collection is of the uncollected variety, but then the chippings - not dust - tumble out of the relief chutes and never get airborne. In my experience this has never been an inconvenience. YMMV.

Sorry if I seem overly pedantic about the RAC's absolute necessity, but it just is.

 
I bought both a Kreg right angle clamp and a face clamp when I bought my jig and I have not had much success using either. I used a domino with a joint yesterday and that was great, no movement at all.
 
Mr heavy is correct in that the ukj clamp needs both hands, however as you can see from the design of the ukj clamp, it has an essential flat face as part of it that acts as an aligning fence for both panels ensuring a flush finish. The two handed operation taks about a second or two in reality, but there is no guesswork as a result. Cheers
 
I've got that ujk clamp pictured above and wasn't impressed. However that was before I bought an actual ujk jig so maybe I should try again. I had been using it with the Kreg jig and when tightened it felt like it was trying to split the mdf like it was pulling at the top of the hole rather than clamping down on the base of the pocket hole like I'd imagine the kreg clamp does. Hope that makes sense :)
 
Jonnio said:
.... ukj clamp, it has an essential flat face as part of it that acts as an aligning fence for both panels ensuring a flush finish. The two handed operation taks about a second or two in reality, but there is no guesswork as a result. Cheers

Useful info, thanks.

I can see the advantage when sticking an edge on a board, certainly.

One of the most frequent uses I have for the RAC is holding shelves in place that form a sideways  "T" with the side of a vertical. I'm not at all clear on how to do that with the UJK but as I said, I haven't used one in anger and maybe I'm missing something embarrassingly obvious.

Having the carcase flat on the bench (overhanging the edge or on blocks, ) with the proposed shelf placed vertically on it, it's a simple matter to hold the shelf against a pencil line with one hand and attach the clamp with the other. Having two clamps allows one end to be a fixed pivot with just enough adjustment to tweak the other end into perfect alignment and then cinch it into place. I don't see how this can be done without the squeeze and lock mechanism but maybe my perspective is defined by the tool I have and there may be a better way.

It's all a learning curve and prejudices make travelling along the curve more difficult. I like learning new stuff - it's just that trying to do it all without help can be a painful process. HELP!  ;)
 
Mr heavy thats good to know. I think it would be good to have both clamps if possible to buy seperately. I think either jig will not dissapoint. Brilliant forum btw, helped me so much. Hope it helps welshwood :-)
 
WelshWood said:
Jig got delivered earlier this morning! Will post a review when I get to use it on the weekend!

WW - As the original poster, with all this advice/experience from this thread - How did it all go?
 
    That UJK clamp is also available from Rockler in the US. I think it is actually Rockler product as well.

    I use the RAC sometimes but I prefer not having to hang the work piece off the edge  of the bench to get the clamp in place. Have to keep moving it too. I have also had the piece still shift with that clamp on it. I do find it useful for some situations though.

Seth
 
Ed bray..dominoes are FANTASTIC alignment tools.  i pretty much use the pocket screws as clamps to hold my domino joints together.  it frees up my clamps for stuff i can't pocket screw and i don't have to now walk around a workpiece AND the clamps that are on it as well.  pocket screws are really good cheap clamps...considering a Bessey Revo Kbody is ~50 bucks a pop, i'd need close to $5000. worth of clamps to do what i do with $.50 screws...
 
If you use the domino and pocket screw combination is glue really required?  I am thinking about frameless cabinets, book shelves etc. Time spent doing the domino work maybe offset by not glueing...  It would also be useful if you wanted to be able to dismantle the project.
 
I look at pocket screws and glue much as a belt-and-suspenders approach.  If the end product is something to be taken down/disassembled often, I'd likely use pocket screws alone.  Generally, the things that I build are intended to stay together for life, so I use both pocket screws and glue.
 
Here's the way I look at it.

Dominos = Alignment

Pocket Hole Screws = Clamps

Glue = Permanent Bond
 
I have a couple different versions of the Kreg clamps.  They sometimes (maybe even usually) work, but it only takes a slight slip to ruin a joint.  I think they are unreliable and don't count on them for more than an alignment aid when applying real clamps.  They work great for dry fit tests.  Biscuits work well to keep cabinet sized panels aligned well, but if you really require spot on alignment, even they have too much play.  Don't know about dominoes as I don't yet have one.
 
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