Poly on wood floors.

Bob Marino

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Jan 16, 2007
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  Hi,

I have wood floors that have poly on them, last time they were refinished was 17 years ago and actually are in great shape. I'm just doing one room - at least to start. So, my plan is to lightly scuff the floors - not take sand them down and apply a coat or two of oil based semi-gloss poly. Any brands out there that are recommended? Any to avoid? Anyone use ZAR quick dry poly?

Bob
 
Bob- I would avoid any that are available at a big box store.  Find a hardwood distributor near you, for poly I like Poloplaz Primero or Basic Coatings Commercial.

Be sure to thoroughly scuff the floor with 120grit on a rotary buffer, then do a test spot to be sure there aren't any contaminants after 17 years. 

What have you cleaned the floor with? Improper cleaners are the #1 cause for recoat failure.
 
The grit designations for ISO/FEPA abrasives, (like Festool sells), are higher numbers than the same grit size in the CAMI grits, (like U.S. based companies sell). That might account for some of the difference.

Although, in the larger grits, the difference isn't much, about one grit description different for the same size grit particles... Something like P120 ISO/FEPA equals P100 CAMI. In the fine grits, the difference in numerical designations are profound. Something like P1000 ISO/FEPA equals P500 CAMI.

It is less significant for most woodworking and WAY more significant for auto body work.

Tom
 
Bob,
  I second what W.O.W said,  poloplaz oil will last you a few more life times, it's simply the hardest oil you can buy.  1-800-421-7319.  Here is poloplaz #

As far as the emulsion pro, that is a good sealer and build coating, but I would not use it as a topcoat.  The poloplaz is the only way to go.  There is nothing even close, and there dry times are incredible.  If your stuck on water based poly.  Check out zenith from poloplaz as well.  It's my favorite water, I used to use skids of it until I became allergic to the azeridine hardener it comes with.
 
I used poloplaz on my floors. I had to order it to my BIL house in LV and go pick it up as it wasnt allowed in Ca.

I tell ya Bob its good stuff, you'll be happy with it. Flows out nice and last forever
 
  Well, cleaned the floor with Bona wood floor cleaner, then used my RO 150 with Vlies to lighly scuff it up. Not a large room and went on so incredibly smoothly that I used just a large brush following the grain.  Question, I am assuming a second coat is a good idea, so lightly scuff with 0000 steel wool?

Bob
 
Walk On Wood said:
You can use the Vlies again for the intercoat abrasion

Ran out of Vlies; used 0000 steel wool, then vacuumed and cleaned the floor again.

Second/last coat is down.

I'm figuring 2 days before is dry enough to place the furniture back in there.

Thanks for all the good advice.

Bob
 
I knew that I should have taken full room pics before I replaced the furniture, but this does give a good idea of the results.

Bob[attachimg=1]
 

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Bob Marino said:
I knew that I should have taken full room pics before I replaced the furniture, but this does give a good idea of the results.

Bob[attachimg=1]
  Very nice Bob, you give hope to the rest of us who would have to move a whole room full of stuff out just to be able to sand and refinish a floor. [thumbs up]
 
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