Poor man’s parallel guide

Packard

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I had posted an earlier version of my “poor man’s parallel guide”, but it suffered from a couple of deficiencies. 

The guide was made from two aluminum yard sticks and a couple of stair stops.  The cost of the yard sticks was about $4.00 each and the stair stops was about $6.00 per pair.

The first, and most telling deficiency was it did not make an adjustment for the width of the cut and I had to remember to add 1/8” to the measurements.

The second, and still important deficiency was the the cheap yard sticks I bought were thin enough to sneak under the splinter guide and would introduce an error of about 1/16” if I were not careful.

An obvious fix for the slip-under-the-splinter-guide would have been to buy the thicker and wider (and more expensive) version of the yard sticks.  Instead, with improved finances available, I got the TSO right angle and parallel guide offering.

The TSO unit works exactly as advertised and I consider it a good investment.  But if I am making a single cut, the yard sticks are quicker to use, so I never disposed of them.

The other day I was in the auto parts store and I picked up the protective edge guards (pictured below).

Installation was simple.  I cut the vinyl to the approximately 1-1/4” length required and slipped it onto the ends.  It relies on friction for retention and seems disinclined to fall off. 

It adds 1/8” to the end of the yard sticks, the amount I needed to remember to add for my setups.  It is also adds enough thickness that it is no longer in risk of slipping under the splinter guard.

The $10.00 per pair of parallel guides grew to $16.00 per pair.  Which I think is still cheap enough to qualify for “poor man’s […]”.

I still think the better yard sticks would make a better poor man’s parallel guide.  I think the friction fit of the edge guide will tighter.  If these tips fall off, I may get thicker rulers or I may use a narrow strip of heavy duty clear packing tape to keep them from falling off. 

The designs are offered with no accuracy claims.  (But I have found the earlier version yielded highly repeatable cuts.)  You will need two.  I use squeeze clamps to hold them in place. 

The images are probably sufficient to show how it is used. The stair stop is set for cutting a 3” strip. 

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So that door edge stuff: why is it on the END of that yardstick? Would it work on the edges?
Just thinking about doing direct read of the distances.
 
It is on the end because I needed to add 1/8” to the length of the ruler to offset the saw blade’s kerf.  It is really just a spacer.  I have no idea what could be accomplished by putting it along the lengths.

I would have to remove the piece to make a direct read.  But then apply it again to set the track.  It would be simpler to just buy an additional yard stick for the direct readings.
 
Hmmm…. Okee
I thought you said something about the yardstick being TOO THIN and that was why you made the end THICKER
 
Duckler said:
Hmmm…. Okee
I thought you said something about the yardstick being TOO THIN and that was why you made the end THICKER

Yes I did say it was too thin.

The risk was that the yard stic would slip under the splinter guard.  It happened to me a couple of times but I caught the error before making the cut. It seemed to occur when the sheet goods were not perfectly flat.

A thicker yardstick would solve that.  The plastic tip I installed would also.

The main reason for the door guard was to add 1/8” to the measurements to make up for the thickness of the cut.
 
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