Popcorn ceiling sanding
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Paint and Hammer
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Gerbils doing OT! [thumbs up]
Paint and Hammer
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Wonder what a planex would do?
If you sand it, do you think it will gum and roll?
If you sand it, do you think it will gum and roll?
Holzhacker
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Sometimes hard work is just hard work. I've done tons of popcorn ceilings. I stopped using water years ago. Way too messy, way too much sloppy clean-up. Easier to use fans and vacs to control dust in the room. Also scraping gently helps.
I generally scrape with a 12" mud blade or long handled ice scraper to get the majority off; then sand with an ETS; then patch as needed.
If this is vintage popcorn you need to be aware that it may contain asbestos material. Use appropriate breathing protection and confinement. Its helpful to have a guy running the vac and holding the wide nozzle near the scraper as you go along to minimize some of the dust. If it is newer popcorn probably not an issue.
If going over an old plaster or especially concrete ceiling consider mixing structolite into your DB or mud. Old plaster and concrete tend to suck the moisture out of the mud and cause adhesion problems. Adding structo will allow the compound mixture to dry properly and fully adhere.
Very rare that I will patch over old plaster without a structo/DB mix, never over concrete. A structo/DB mix also works very well if going over old canvas wallpaper.
I generally scrape with a 12" mud blade or long handled ice scraper to get the majority off; then sand with an ETS; then patch as needed.
If this is vintage popcorn you need to be aware that it may contain asbestos material. Use appropriate breathing protection and confinement. Its helpful to have a guy running the vac and holding the wide nozzle near the scraper as you go along to minimize some of the dust. If it is newer popcorn probably not an issue.
If going over an old plaster or especially concrete ceiling consider mixing structolite into your DB or mud. Old plaster and concrete tend to suck the moisture out of the mud and cause adhesion problems. Adding structo will allow the compound mixture to dry properly and fully adhere.
Very rare that I will patch over old plaster without a structo/DB mix, never over concrete. A structo/DB mix also works very well if going over old canvas wallpaper.
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That's why we taped the wide nozzle to the scraper. We used the tubes from the vac as a long handle to reach the ceiling. It worked amazingly well and was essentially a one man job.
Tom
Mr Jones said:
I agree that they may be the right tool for the job but don't think it is an option.
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It's taken me a long while to realise it's NAINA although it seems that's changing next year. I'm sure once it rolls out this forum will fill up with positive recommendations for it.
JLB builders LLC
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I use a Porter cable 7800 drywall sander and 80 grit.12x14 room takes 20 min. It will fill the PC7812 bags quickly so have bags on hand. Completely dustless.
PEOPLE! [eek]
As a previous commenter suggested, MANY POPCORN CEILINGS CONTAIN ASBESTOS!
If you sand/grind, you'll atomize those (extremely fine/lightweight) particles and they can never be fully removed from the house's atmosphere. The advantage of the wet+scrape method is that it weighs down the fibers and keeps the mass intact.
It's one thing to be that irresponsible with the air of your own home, but please don't do that to clients.
As a previous commenter suggested, MANY POPCORN CEILINGS CONTAIN ASBESTOS!
If you sand/grind, you'll atomize those (extremely fine/lightweight) particles and they can never be fully removed from the house's atmosphere. The advantage of the wet+scrape method is that it weighs down the fibers and keeps the mass intact.
It's one thing to be that irresponsible with the air of your own home, but please don't do that to clients.
Asbestos was used up to 83 in this type of texture in some regions, now it is more like styorfoam rather than cork. I have this in mind when I typically inquire of the age of the home even though most time it is apparent, but what Joseph says is 100% for anyone in doubt verify the age of the home and if in doubt get it tested.Joseph C said:
I also shut the air off and cover the vents as to not contaminate their central system when I do this type of work. If that is not possible then I will block the area I am in.
JLB builders LLC
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I used up 2-3 bags on a 12x16 room using 100 grit….House was built in 1986. No mess to clean up afterwards and no dust escaped the PC sander. For the Corners I used a Fein Multi Master and held the Vac hose up to catch the dustSean.M said:
About 10 years ago, I did a smooth ceiling job for a cousin of mine, and her father dropped in. He was a retired plasterer, an italian man in his 70's. He saw me scraping the ceiling, laughed at me and says "Why you no just coat over it?" So now, in most cases, I just bury the stuff in mud.
You do have to watch sometimes the moisture in the mud will cause the popcorn to let go from the ceiling. Which makes it a more costly, but cleaner wet removal system. Often though you'll be carving out a few bubbles, filling them in with more compound and with another coat everything should look great. In most cases though everything holds just fine.
Just to offer an entirely different angle on the problem. I've smoothed too many ceilings and walls over the years, and I've never thought about using a powered sander.
You do have to watch sometimes the moisture in the mud will cause the popcorn to let go from the ceiling. Which makes it a more costly, but cleaner wet removal system. Often though you'll be carving out a few bubbles, filling them in with more compound and with another coat everything should look great. In most cases though everything holds just fine.
Just to offer an entirely different angle on the problem. I've smoothed too many ceilings and walls over the years, and I've never thought about using a powered sander.
Some of the ceilings that I have done have been quick and easy. Some have been a bear.
Here are some things I have encountered:
1. Multiple layers of paint - used a wallpaper steamer and then scraped off
2. Repairs made with plaster and sand - Grunt it out
3. Repairs made with small gravel and sheetrock mud - wished I had used the steamer. Projectiles flying.
Have fun!
Peter
Here are some things I have encountered:
1. Multiple layers of paint - used a wallpaper steamer and then scraped off
2. Repairs made with plaster and sand - Grunt it out
3. Repairs made with small gravel and sheetrock mud - wished I had used the steamer. Projectiles flying.
Have fun!
Peter
Scott B. said:
Anybody know the measurements on this? I looked at it on the Festool site but could not find specs. When connected to the LS 130 does it have extractor capabilities?
I have done some popcorn ceiling removal sand jobs now using the ETS 125 and the RTS 400 on unpainted popcorn ceilings. The job goes fast without the mess but the problem I am having is it is not quite as clean as I want.
When the edge of the pad hits the texture it knocks the nubs off. Of course it is only knocking a percent down and it cleans up easy but I am now thinking I need to quickly knock the nubs off before sanding if I do not want some of the nubs to get knocked down on to my drops. I am also considering the Homax 6100 scraper that you attach the bag to. I have used the Homax thing before and it is not all that good of a tool but I am thinking since I just want the nubs to fall into a bag it may work here.
I will post pics and or video later of how this has been working for me but right now I am looking for input on the LS 130 attachment or any other tool I can use that will prevent the nubs from falling without preferably being caught in the CT.
