possible router purchase

[jimmy986]

I have been thinking about making my next tool purchase be a Festool router. I am thinking the 1400 since it seems to be the most versatile. I do have an LR-32 rail I got with my track saw. I don't have a router table, and never have. I've done everything handheld. I would like a router table but don't want to spend money on one for my craftsman router only to replace it soon. I can't purchase a router and table at the same time so I was thinking a router with various accessories first and then a festool table later. I have thinking the full package with the sliding table and all. Not sure though since I've never had a router table before.

I see myself using the router for edge profiles, dados for shelves and such, shelf pins, and probably eventually some template routing.

What would be a good starter "kit" for me to purchase. What are the "essential" accessories I should get? And is the festool router table really worth the money?

Or I could always stick with my current router, buy a decent router table for it and focus on other tools. I'm a hobbyist so I second guess my tool choices a lot before spending so much money on them.

 

[TOOLTOWN]

I'm not sure where you are located, but we are having a router demo day November 7th from 10 - 2.  http://www.tooltown.com/demo-days-and-store-events.html

If you are too far away, or cant make it, I always recommend the Guide stop (492601) to use the router with the rails and the edge guide (492636) to put dados and repetitive cuts a set distance from the edge.  You definitely want the LR-32 kit (584100) for doing shelf pins and door hinges as well.

Here is my standard reply for the CMS:  If you are shop based (not moving the router table from site to site) get yourself a large, beefy router table system.  The Incra LS packages are really awesome for setup accuracy and repeatability.  If you are site based (moving your "shop" from site to site) the CMS is great as a mobile full function router table.  Plus it offers use of the festool system and great dust extraction.  Hopefully we will see the additional CMS inserts over here in North America eventually.  When we do this would be a complete system and a better value, (in my opinion).

Ken

 

[rst]

The 1400 is a great all round choice, I have 12 routers thaT I use in various tasks.  I bought the 1400 to use with the LS system and have since bought the 1010 and most recently the 2200.  Tooltowns recommendations are spot on for starters...then you can start your bit collection.

 

[Holmz]

...
I see myself using the router for edge profiles, dados for shelves and such, shelf pins, and probably eventually some template routing.
...
Or I could always stick with my current router, buy a decent router table for it and focus on other tools. I'm a hobbyist so I second guess my tool choices a lot before spending so much money on them.

Having highlighted the above...
I am (was) in a similar boat.
Your "second guessing" make perfect sense to me  [embarassed]

Mostly I do small work and I got an 8-mm (and 6-mm and 1/4"). So templates for door hinges, some cutouts in plates for vertical 2x4 beams to slot into, rebates for glass in doors.
I got 5-mm bit for doing shelf pins and headed to the garage for that shortly.

I would suggest that if the current router works, and can be put onto the holey rail, then that would allow you to take your time working out whether a different router would aid you.

For me I will likely get a large 1/2" (like a 2200 or triton) router to put on a table for big work shaping profiles for doors, and use the small unit for the "normal" small stuff.

One can always spend a lot on bits which can be used on any router.

If you are doing templates, then a jig saw becomes the first tool used... Often followed by a file or rasp. Since they are usually in thin material, almost any jig saw will do, but I do prefer to use a red one.

 

[Birdhunter]

You might want to think about building a router table incorporating your Craftsman router and buying the 1400 for handheld work. I feel the 1400 is too nice a router to bury under a router table.

 

[jacko9]

Whatever router solution you use, I would recommend router bits with shanks greater than 1/4".  I have multiple routers and a wood shaper so my router needs are quite simple and a flat piece of 1" MDF routed out to accept my Bosch router when set on saw horses is all the table I need.  I tend to gravitate to 1/2" shank router bits that will stay tight in the collet after having a 1/4" profile bit come loose while cutting.

 

[DB10]

[member=40772]Holmz[/member]

For me I will likely get a large 1/2" (like a 2200 or triton) router to put on a table for big work shaping profiles for doors, and use the small unit for the "normal" small stuff.

This is also what I did, IMO you can't go wrong with the Triton 2200 for a router table and at a third of the price of a OF1400 (which has already been stated is far to nice as a free hand router to keep having to fit under a table.
Just Tools in South Melbourne were selling the OF2200 at the best price I could find, I think they were $100 cheaper than Carbetec. And as a bonus the Triton is not the usual made in China rubbish, like all quality tools it's made in Taiwan, Lol.

 

[Holmz]

[member=40772]Holmz[/member]

For me I will likely get a large 1/2" (like a 2200 or triton) router to put on a table for big work shaping profiles for doors, and use the small unit for the "normal" small stuff.

This is also what I did, IMO you can't go wrong with the Triton 2200 for a router table and at a third of the price of a OF1400 (which has already been stated is far to nice as a free hand router to keep having to fit under a table.
Just Tools in South Melbourne were selling the OF2200 at the best price I could find, I think they were $100 cheaper than Carbetec. And as a bonus the Triton is not the usual made in China rubbish, like all quality tools it's made in Taiwan, Lol.

Thanks [member=42735]DB10[/member]

As I have a dream of doing a timber framed house or shed, I have been looking at the LingaTool


Hence I got a small router for the small stuff.
I have as of yet to convince the Haus-Frau that it is similar to making a piece of furniture, only larger.  [embarassed]

Plus there is some uncertainty as to whether Jarrah, or Kerri or similar SW woods are suitable... And then there is getting council approval and engineering sign off on plans...

 

[ear3]

For the price of the 1400 and the essential accessories, you would come close to the price of a decent table and a Triton router.  I have the Triton as my dedicated table router, and it is absolutely brilliant, not just in terms of power, but also because of it's above the table adjustment and bit change capabilities, which means you don't need an expensive router lift. 

As someone already said, I would steer clear from the CMS unless you will be doing a lot of mobile work

That said, the 1400 is an awesome hand-held router.  You would want the edge guide, and if you plan on doing any rail guided routing, then the edge stop as well.

I have been thinking about making my next tool purchase be a Festool router. I am thinking the 1400 since it seems to be the most versatile. I do have an LR-32 rail I got with my track saw. I don't have a router table, and never have. I've done everything handheld. I would like a router table but don't want to spend money on one for my craftsman router only to replace it soon. I can't purchase a router and table at the same time so I was thinking a router with various accessories first and then a festool table later. I have thinking the full package with the sliding table and all. Not sure though since I've never had a router table before.

I see myself using the router for edge profiles, dados for shelves and such, shelf pins, and probably eventually some template routing.

What would be a good starter "kit" for me to purchase. What are the "essential" accessories I should get? And is the festool router table really worth the money?

Or I could always stick with my current router, buy a decent router table for it and focus on other tools. I'm a hobbyist so I second guess my tool choices a lot before spending so much money on them.

 

[jimmy986]

If I was to use my current router in a table and use the 1400 for hand work, what are some suggestions for router tables? Since I've never had one, I don't really know what to look for or how to know if it is compatible with my router.

 

[jacko9]

If I was to use my current router in a table and use the 1400 for hand work, what are some suggestions for router tables? Since I've never had one, I don't really know what to look for or how to know if it is compatible with my router.

Fine Woodworking did a review of router tables and router lifts several months back.  Our local library has Fine Woodworking you might want to see if your library has copies.

Jack

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

If I was to use my current router in a table and use the 1400 for hand work, what are some suggestions for router tables? Since I've never had one, I don't really know what to look for or how to know if it is compatible with my router.

Router tables are very easy to make and fairly inexpensive depending on your selection of materials used.  My favorite router table I built is made out of a 8ft long 16in I joist with 3/4 cabinet ply attached to the top and I used a Bench Dog router plate and fence.  The reason I made it long was for in feed and out feed support being I route a lot of longer material.  There are a lot of router table plans online. 

 

[Holmz]

For the price of the 1400 and the essential accessories, you would come close to the price of a decent table and a Triton router.  I have the Triton as my dedicated table router, and it is absolutely brilliant, not just in terms of power, but also because of it's above the table adjustment and bit change capabilities, which means you don't need an expensive router lift. 

As someone already said, I would steer clear from the CMS unless you will be doing a lot of mobile work

That said, the 1400 is an awesome hand-held router.  You would want the edge guide, and if you plan on doing any rail guided routing, then the edge stop as well.

I have been thinking about making my next tool purchase be a Festool router. I am thinking the 1400 since it seems to be the most versatile. I do have an LR-32 rail I got with my track saw. I don't have a router table, and never have. I've done everything handheld. I would like a router table but don't want to spend money on one for my craftsman router only to replace it soon. I can't purchase a router and table at the same time so I was thinking a router with various accessories first and then a festool table later. I have thinking the full package with the sliding table and all. Not sure though since I've never had a router table before.

I see myself using the router for edge profiles, dados for shelves and such, shelf pins, and probably eventually some template routing.

What would be a good starter "kit" for me to purchase. What are the "essential" accessories I should get? And is the festool router table really worth the money?

Or I could always stick with my current router, buy a decent router table for it and focus on other tools. I'm a hobbyist so I second guess my tool choices a lot before spending so much money on them.

For 1 router the 1400 makes sense.

I choose to go with a (future) 1/2" and a smaller 8-mm (e.g. 1100) for handheld.
Otherwise would just the heavier larger router for both.

But interested in the topic. Are there people with the 2200 and the 1440 , or 2200 and 1100? or all three?
And why?

 

[Bohdan]

But interested in the topic. Are there people with the 2200 and the 1440 , or 2200 and 1100? or all three?
And why?

I use the 2200 in the CMS with a power feed. When doing large rebates in old hardwood (I was making door frames from reclaimed timber) I have had it actually slow down while backcutting to avoid chipping.

I use the 1010 with the LR32 (the 2200 is just too big to fit) and for edge trimming,.

Though for most hand held use I really like the 2200 as it is very smooth and stable and most of my cutters are 1/2" shank. I have almost stopped using my ELUs as I don't like the face full of dust that you get.

 

[ear3]

The packages from Infinity, Incra and Woodpeckers are near the top end.

The Kreg router table, which I have, is mid-range.  I like my table, but if I were to do it again I would probably move up a notch.

And then there are some cheaper options available from Rockler.

One recommendation would be to try to get something with an aluminum insert plate, as this is least likely to flex with a large router.  You can still work with the phenolic plate for a heavy router like the Triton, but you might have to do some customizing to ensure the plate doesn't sag (I had to install extra supports to keep the phenolic plate on my Kreg table from flexing).

Other than the plate, the other thing to look for is the fence -- you want one that locks down tight, and won't lift or go out of 90 when you apply pressure to it or attach featherboards.

If you have a cabinet table saw, there is also the option of getting an extension (or building one) that accommodates a router.

If I was to use my current router in a table and use the 1400 for hand work, what are some suggestions for router tables? Since I've never had one, I don't really know what to look for or how to know if it is compatible with my router.

 

[waho6o9]

But interested in the topic. Are there people with the 2200 and the 1440 , or 2200 and 1100? or all three?
And why?

All three here and loving it. And the MFK 700 trim router has a home as well,

Why? 

I don't understand the question. Seriously.

 

[Birdhunter]

If your Craftsman router is a plunge router, then you have a lot more options.

You could start with a router table top with a removable insert and build the rest. Many of the inserts are predrilled for the more popular routers. A good fence is a must. There are many excellent adjustable fences on the market. My router fence is a cobbled up combination, but it is very solid and micro-adjustable.

If your router is not a plunge unit, then you will have to buy a lift. Once you are at this point, I think it is best to buy a full set-up with the table, fence, lift, and Porter Cable motor.

Whichever way you go, incorporate dust collection into your design from the start.

Again, I think hanging a pricy Festool router under a table when a cheap Porter Cable motor works well is a waste.

 

[sancho57]

I got the 2200 and the 1010. To me that is the best combo. The 2200 I leave in the CMS until I need to free hand something with a large bit. The 2200 is awesome to free hand with. heavy but awesome. For the average free hand routine and use with the LR 32 system the 1010 can't be beat.

As far as what accessories you should buy? I buy things when I need them and not based on what others suggest in advanced.
No sense in spending cash on something you may or not use.

 

[Cheese]

If I was to use my current router in a table and use the 1400 for hand work, what are some suggestions for router tables? Since I've never had one, I don't really know what to look for or how to know if it is compatible with my router.

FWIW...Here's the table I've been looking at. It's made by Bench Dog and is all cast iron and weighs 100#. The surface is ground to a flatness of .008". Being cast iron, you can use magnetic jigs and feather boards on it and you don't have to worry about any future sagging unlike MDF. Rockler Hardware usually has at least one in stock and they usually sell them for $450. It's the last router table you'll ever buy.

http://www.benchdog.com/ProMax-RT

You didn't mention if you have a table saw, but if you do, here's another option. This is the same cast iron router table but it attaches to your table saw instead saving space and money.

http://www.benchdog.com/ProMax

 

[rvieceli]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member]

Uh Oh.  know I'm in trouble now [eek] I read your description of the router table and I thought "really? .008 --- that doesn't seem very flat."

Ron