possible router purchase

[Sparktrician]

Before I settled out on the CMS, I was heading for a Woodpeckers router table with the phenolic top, Precision Router Lift v2, Superfence with offset module, micro-adjuster, P-C 7518 motor, etc., etc., etc.  Once assembled, it would be a beast, but also a royal PITA to move around when I needed to take it to a job site.  No regrets on buying the CMS, to be used with any of the Festool plunge routers.  Each has a place where it shines.  I did add two extension tables to the CMS, and that necessitated relocating the power switch for safety reasons.  Nothing's ever a perfect system, but I have the one that works best for my needs.

 

[jacko9]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member]

Uh Oh.  know I'm in trouble now [eek] I read your description of the router table and I thought "really? .008 --- that doesn't seem very flat."

Ron

That's why they sell sanders [wink]

Jack

 

[grbmds]

I have been thinking about making my next tool purchase be a Festool router. I am thinking the 1400 since it seems to be the most versatile. I do have an LR-32 rail I got with my track saw. I don't have a router table, and never have. I've done everything handheld. I would like a router table but don't want to spend money on one for my craftsman router only to replace it soon. I can't purchase a router and table at the same time so I was thinking a router with various accessories first and then a festool table later. I have thinking the full package with the sliding table and all. Not sure though since I've never had a router table before.

I see myself using the router for edge profiles, dados for shelves and such, shelf pins, and probably eventually some template routing.

What would be a good starter "kit" for me to purchase. What are the "essential" accessories I should get? And is the festool router table really worth the money?

Or I could always stick with my current router, buy a decent router table for it and focus on other tools. I'm a hobbyist so I second guess my tool choices a lot before spending so much money on them.

I own both the OF1400 and an Incra router table/fence/under table dust collection. I am completely satisfied with both. I don't need the router table to be mobile to a worksite and use it only in my shop so the Incra table on wheels works great. It is one of the most accurate tools I have with the Incra positioner fence. The router lifts Incra sells work with most routers but, to be sure, you would have to check with them. The whole table/fence/lift is expensive but I feel well worth it. I am a hobbyist also so I completely understand your need to research before buying. You can also buy much less expensive table/fence/lift combos, but be careful and be sure that the tables are flat, the lift serves your purpose, and the fence and dust collection will server your needs. I used a Rockler table and fence for years and got along, but the Incra makes a huge difference in the result for me.

 

[Cheese]

Uh Oh.  know I'm in trouble now [eek] I read your description of the router table and I thought "really? .008 --- that doesn't seem very flat."

Ron

Ya Ron, I know what you're saying...I'd also like it better at .005 or .003 flatness but is that really necessary for the tasks involved? Maybe for some very unusual situation, but for most tasks I think .008" will probably be fine.
When I talked with Bench Dog they said that number was the worst case and they usually had better numbers than that, but they wouldn't share the better numbers with me. They also said that they seasoned their castings before grinding so they shouldn't move much.

 

[jimmy986]

So if I have a plunge base for the router, I won't need a router lift for under the table.

Also, craftsmen routers are rarely listed as compatible. They have non pre-drilled plates for other routers. How do I drill them out? I've never had to drill in metal before.

 

[Birdhunter]

Most of my older routers had a phenolic base that I could remove. I used that as a templet to drill the router table insert. Some inserts are metal but most are not.

I use the same drill bits (high speed steel) for wood and metal. If I'm drilling metal, I use a prick punch to provide a starting point for the drill bit. I'll put a few drops of oil on the bit to avoid overheating it. I also run the drill at a slower speed. Not a big deal.

 

[Bohdan]

So if I have a plunge base for the router, I won't need a router lift for under the table.

A router lift is not essential but adjusting the cutter height without one is a real PITA. A router lift, especially an accurate one can turn a real chore into a pleasure to use. Remember that the plunge springs will be pushing the inverted router down quite hard.

 

[grbmds]

I used a Makita plunge router from the late 1970's until last year with just a plate in a Rockler table, but I used it in a custom cabinet which allowed me easily raise the top to set the depth. It isn't easy to set depths without a good accurate lift. Without the lift is usually involves a few tries and test pieces to get it just right. Whether that meets your needs or not depends, to some degree, on how often you use the table. Now that I use my router table more I am really glad I have an accurate lift.

 

[Peter_C]

This probably goes against the general grain on here of owning the best of everything, but...

Since I rarely use a router table I went the really cheap route as in $5.00. I had built temporary counter tops out of melamine for my parents kitchen, and re-purposed one piece into a router table. Sawhorses hold the table up. The aluminum for the router plate was scrap metal purchased for $5.00. If I am concerned with the aluminum scratching or marring the surface I put plastic drawer liner over the top that is sticky on one side, yet removes really easy. Otherwise I occasionally hit the aluminum plate with 500 grit. The wood blocks used as the fence can be cut to any desired width, so if you want more on the outfeed side a pass thru the table saw can make that adjustment. I run an OF2000 router so it has the screw down plunge adjustment which makes it easier to adjust mounted under a table and the dust collection works pretty good. There is a Festool black hood on top of the router bit between the two blocks of wood. Double stick tape can keep the wood blocks from sliding once the fence is set (I haven't had to do that yet though). It works pretty well for me and the fence is easy enough to adjust. Of course a Woodpeckers phenolic table router setup with a lift would be sweet!

If I wanted a dedicated router for the table I wouldn't hesitate to buy a Triton.

Another cheap option is the Husky unit from Home Depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-8-ft-x-3-ft-Portable-Jobsite-Workbench-225047/205887786

 

[jacko9]

This probably goes against the general grain on here of owning the best of everything, but...

Since I rarely use a router table I went the really cheap route as in $5.00. I had built temporary counter tops out of melamine for my parents kitchen, and re-purposed one piece into a router table. Sawhorses hold the table up. The aluminum for the router plate was scrap metal purchased for $5.00. If I am concerned with the aluminum scratching or marring the surface I put plastic drawer liner over the top that is sticky on one side, yet removes really easy. Otherwise I occasionally hit the aluminum plate with 500 grit. The wood blocks used as the fence can be cut to any desired width, so if you want more on the outfeed side a pass thru the table saw can make that adjustment. I run an OF2000 router so it has the screw down plunge adjustment which makes it easier to adjust mounted under a table and the dust collection works pretty good. There is a Festool black hood on top of the router bit between the two blocks of wood. Double stick tape can keep the wood blocks from sliding once the fence is set (I haven't had to do that yet though). It works pretty well for me and the fence is easy enough to adjust. Of course a Woodpeckers phenolic table router setup with a lift would be sweet!

If I wanted a dedicated router for the table I wouldn't hesitate to buy a Triton.

Another cheap option is the Husky unit from Home Depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-8-ft-x-3-ft-Portable-Jobsite-Workbench-225047/205887786

Peter, Your router table is pretty fancy compared to my 18" x 24" piece of MDF that rests on my cheap saw horses, I used it today with my 3 1/4hp OLD Bosch Production Router and it just keeps on ticking like the Timex watch [big grin]

Jack

 

[jimmy986]

Something else I considered was buying a cheap router/table combo to try it out first. Since I've never had a router table I don't know what I want/need exactly and what is overkill or not necessary. I know craftsman and bluehawk have $100 combos. I'm aware they will be really cheap but it might be a good way for me to find what I want before I go through all of the time of building a custom table and then realizing what I left out.

I also have a very small shop. It's probably about 300 square feet and I already have a bunch of tools filling it so until I upgrade my shop, it would be nice to have a small benchtop table that I can easily move out of the way. For $100 would this be a waste of my time? It would also leave me extra funds to put towards a festool router that I can use with my rails and MFT table.

There is this model: http://www.sears.com/die-cast-aluminum-router-table/p-00937596000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

It seems to be a little nicer I just don't know if it will fit my current router. I've seen where some people had issues with their craftsman fitting.

 

[grbmds]

Something else I considered was buying a cheap router/table combo to try it out first. Since I've never had a router table I don't know what I want/need exactly and what is overkill or not necessary. I know craftsman and bluehawk have $100 combos. I'm aware they will be really cheap but it might be a good way for me to find what I want before I go through all of the time of building a custom table and then realizing what I left out.

I also have a very small shop. It's probably about 300 square feet and I already have a bunch of tools filling it so until I upgrade my shop, it would be nice to have a small benchtop table that I can easily move out of the way. For $100 would this be a waste of my time? It would also leave me extra funds to put towards a festool router that I can use with my rails and MFT table.

There is this model: http://www.sears.com/die-cast-aluminum-router-table/p-00937596000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

It seems to be a little nicer I just don't know if it will fit my current router. I've seen where some people had issues with their craftsman fitting.

The Craftsman table top router table I saw online (for $80) has a 14" X 24" top. So, the question would be, what are you likely going to use it for. I owned a small cast aluminum Sears for years before upgrading to my second table and it was useful. For longer boards, though, stability and safety was always my issue with the small table. For me, stability is one of the reasons I like router tables; for template routing, edging on narrow boards, and, with my Incra table dovetail joints. So, in the end, I think the table's usefulness would depend on what you plan on using it for. Sometimes it makes sense to wait to buy until you have a specific project in mind that would be best done on a router table and choose based at least partly on that.

 

[bigarm]

I am still a beginning woodworker.  Started late and at 62 have only been doing it for about a year so I really don't know what you need, but will relate my story.  I bought a Bosch table top router table (RA1171) and a cheap router (Skil 1830) and do not regret that decision but things have changed.  I didn't use it at all for a while and then used it more often.  Now I am using it quite often and thinking a better router and table might be a good investment.  However, I am in the same position as you as my shop is only about 270 square feet so space is a premium.  I am looking at table saw extensions and other things but can't make up my mind (plus I need money!).  I do have a fair sized man cave next to my wood shop that I could store one in if it had very good casters so I could roll it over the threshold into the shop (and narrow enough to go through the door).  Anyway, I think you will be happy to have a router.  It is a very nice tool to own.  Good luck on your search and let us know what you decide.

 

[Holmz]

...Sometimes it makes sense to wait to buy until you have a specific project in mind that would be best done on a router table and choose based at least partly on that.

^

A cheap second hand router might be worth having.
You will soon be using a jig saw for templates. But if you have no projects, then you have no need.
On the other hand once you start you may see more project that you saw (or routered) before.

 

[luke duke]

Everyone needs at least two routers. Even if you only keep a roundover bit in the second one.

 

[Holmz]

Everyone needs at least two routers. Even if you only keep a roundover bit in the second one.

And also two+ wives?

I think that the chucks allow for bit changes - so a round over can be put into and router.

In the olden times they used planes for that sort work.
One can wound over an edge with a file, rasp, plane, sanding block...
One do not NEED anything.

 

[Sparktrician]

And also two+ wives?

Had two, neither worth a pile of warm sawdust.  [sad]  I'd rather have a great router or four.  [big grin]

 

[rst]

My name is Steve, and I am a router addict...I have 12, three Festools, three Bosch, six PC. 

 

[Holmz]

Well the OP is wondering if he needs one, not 12.

I was also in a similar boat and then I knew I needed one... Tried to decide on something like a 1400 or the 1100 and 2200.
I got the equivalent of the 1100 to start with as I know I need the larger one later.
I am not sure if he even needs one; hence the "buy used" suggestion.

 

[grbmds]

Actually he was asking about a router table, not a router. His post indicates he has at least one router and wanted input on whether it makes sense to buy a small router table for his existing router and use the 1400 for hand routing. The 1400 is an excellent router for hand routing with great dust collection. Very accurate I've found. Using it for that purpose makes sense to me. As for the router table, I've already commented and buying a small one depends on what it is being used for. It can be useful but has its limitations. I doubt it makes too much difference which brand though. Actually there are plans on the internet for making table top router tables. I would do that if I were in the market for that type of router table.