Praise for the Woodrave MFT jig

Dane

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Jan 27, 2008
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I don't see a lot of mention of the Woodrave jig here- so I thought I'd throw in my 2'cents.  It works remarkably well and quickly for a very low cost.  It took me about 20 minutes start to finish to set up for and complete a 2ft x 5ft custom top.  When finished, I checked for square using the Anderson Plywood MFT square and couldn't find any issues.  Pics below.
 

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Thanks for the pointers and a new post - never would have found the old one on my own.

How about the $400 version - a one-off made of CNC red (or green) anodized aluminum with laser etched white markings, sold in a red (or green) systainer with a suitable router bit - choice of 8mm or 1/2" shank and 3/4" or 20mm diameters, and all in fitted foam?  I think someone is missing a marketing opportunity.  And imagine how much you could charge for the 1/4" thick aluminum pegboard template, if you could figure out how to make it work technically. :)

Seriously, hoorah for the reasonable price.  This just became my new first choice for how to make an MFT top if I ever need one.  (My second choice would be to have it CNC'd.)
 
Thanks for using the Anderson MFT Square!
It's always nice to see it in action!

Dane said:
I don't see a lot of mention of the Woodrave jig here- so I thought I'd throw in my 2'cents.  It works remarkably well and quickly for a very low cost.  It took me about 20 minutes start to finish to set up for and complete a 2ft x 5ft custom top.  When finished, I checked for square using the Anderson Plywood MFT square and couldn't find any issues.  Pics below.
 
I also have used the Woodrave jig on my PC690 with a Freud 20mm bit to make a workbench top and another worksurface.  I drilled 1/2 holes first for the workbench and the Freud bit went through quickly - the top is 3/4 plywood.  It is 3 feet by 7 feet.  The other worksurface is 2 feet by 7 feet with a 1/2 inch plywood top.  I did not pre-drill it and the plunging wasn't as smooth and easy but it worked.  The woodrave jig had no issues in either case.

I've been working on squaring jigs for the workbench top today.  They are 2 inch wide, 1 inch thick with 3/4 dowels to engage the workbench top.  I will add hanger bolts to secure them.  It appears that the holes are quite square despite some irregularity in the pegboard hole position. 

I think this is a good way to make a perforated top.  The holes are on 4 inch centers - not quite the MFT spacing but close (you have your choice of even inches due to the pegboard hole pattern).  My worksurfaces are Paulk style and I do not use dogs but it appears the holes are accurate enough I could.
 
I don't have the Festool or PC router.  Is there any chance that the inside diameter of the hole in the base will fit a standard bushing size, either imperial or metric?
 
HarveyWildes said:
I don't have the Festool or PC router.  Is there any chance that the inside diameter of the hole in the base will fit a standard bushing size, either imperial or metric?

FWIW...it will attach to a Milwaukee 5616-29 router if you own one of those.

The hole inside diameter is 29.5mm or 1.61".
 
I considered this approach (on someone's suggestion long before the jig was available). But when I went to pick up pegboard I realized that spacing on it (row vs columns) wasn't exactly accurate. That is of course manufacturer/batch specific and has to be checked.
Other than that simple and quick solution.
 
My pegboard holes are not perfectly lined up either but it doesn't seem to affect the hole spacing enough to matter.  Maybe if you use dogs to cut right angles but I doubt it.  I think the variation is not big enough to throw things off over the lengths that you use them to index.  My squaring jigs are as square as my squares. 
 
I haven't been on the Forum much for sometime, so much going on. But I came across this thread and just want to say I appreciate all the positive feedback. Thanks!
 
for those who want to go the CNC route, we have both CAD Drawings and matching DXF files for CNC routers available as free downloads athttps://tsoproducts.com/plans-drawings/worktop-cnc-routing-files/
We have had quite a few takers since word has spread.
in response to requests we have created a new set of drawings with dual dimensions  Imperial/Metric. These will be revision letter B and will replace letter A Imperial only dimensioned drawings in a few days.
Hans
info@tsoproducts.com
 
I know this thread is a little old.  But this last summer,  I purchased and used the Woodrave jig to make a MFT top for my Paulk style work bench.  It worked like a charm and turned out very accurate.  Would recommend this as a way to make a very handy MFT type top on the cheap.  I will try to attached some pictures.
 

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I noticed you're using a Milwaukee router with Festool 20mm bit? Do they make a 8mm aftermarket collet for the Milwaukee router?
 
Dane, in addition to your thoughts on the Woodrave jig, you've given me some good ideas for a new workshop table I'd like to build. Thanks!
 
I know this is an old thread, but I just found out about the Woodrave jig.  It looks like a great idea and I already have the OF 1400.  Trouble is, looks like the company went out of business.  Can't find one on Ebay either.  Anyone looking to sell theirs or know of anywhere I could find one?  TIA.  Mark
 
I used pegboard to drill three separate MFT type tops. 

I screwed the pegboard down on the MDF.

I taped over the holes I did not want to drill.

I used a Vix bit to make pilots for the final drilling.

I used an auger point bit to drill the holes.

On each top there is one hole that is out of registration.  I know that the peg board did not shift.  I did not use clamps.  I used screws. 

It is not the same hole on each top.  And I have never figured out how the discrepancy crept in.  When I have used a magic marker to circle the offending hole so I know not to use it for squaring something out. 

I can't imagine that this jig will do much better centering than a Vix bit does.  I would have to run a straight edge over each row to be confident. 

I did use a hardened steel bushing to ensure that my holes were vertical.  If I were doing it again, I would use a brad point bit.  The auger point bit was too aggressive.  Though the drill bit I used is still sharp and still drills clean holes. 
 
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