Praise for the Woodrave MFT jig

[MARK3980]

Packard,
    Since I can't buy the Woodrave jig anyway, I'll go the pegboard route.  I've done some research on it and it appears that all pegboard is not equal.  Guys have complained that there were discrepancies in the hole spacing which led to out-of-square issues.  Maybe that's what happened to you?  Now how to find higher-end, better machined pegboard is the question at hand.  Pardon me if this is a dumb question, but I'm not sure how you used a bushing in this case.  Did you drill a larger hole in the pegboard, fit the bushing into that, and then send the auger bit through it?  I was thinking of buying one of those guides you attach a drill to to get straight holes.

 

[Dane]

I started this thread originally, I had near perfect results with the Woodrave jig- at least to the extent I could measure.  It's too bad he's not making them anymore.  I think getting the pegboard from another source than a box store is probably wise and you have to find a true 3/8.  It used to be that Lee Valley sold a 20mm bit and a bushing for it.  I think that combined with some good pegboard could get you close.  If you do get the Woodrave jig somehow, I do know that it is vital to make sure you are orienting your router the same direction as you are cutting.  The error creeps in when your bit isn't exactly centered in the jig for whatever reason, but you can avoid that issue by keeping your router consistent.

 

[Packard]

I order this bushing from Amazon.com:

3/4 I.D. Drill Size x 1" O.D. x 3/4" Lg. Type "H" Standard Head Press Fit Drill Bushing
Sold by: Reid Supply (an Essentra Company)

I mounted it in a 6” x 6” x 3/4” piece of MDF in which I drilled a 1.00” hole in the center.  It started out as an interference fit but got loose after a few holes so I uses a small scrap of paper to tighten things up.

I used a Wood Owl drill bit and drilled 3/4” holes. I know it is non-standard, but I make my own dogs out fo 3/4” dowels, so it works for me.

I used a screw point auger bit, but a brad point would have been a better choice. I removed the pegboard to drill the 3/4” holes using the vix bit holes for location.  You will need a bit with a point to accurately locate the drill in the pilot hole.

 

[DynaGlide]

I think I have a woodrave mft jig somewhere if you're interested. I made a smaller top with it and it was perfect. The pegboard you use matters - I had to track down the better stuff from a lumber supplier.

 

[Bob D.]

Thanks for using the Anderson MFT Square!
It's always nice to see it in action!

Yeah, it's almost like a Yeti sighting.

Unfortunately this is almost comical since that layout square has not been available on Amazon for well over a year (see screen snip from Amazon taken today). I know because I have been watching for it to become available again. I used to have it saved on a list, but after a couple years I finally decided if I could get by this long without it I really didn't need it so I deleted it.

 

[Packard]

I checked the hole placement by aligning a straightedge with all the tangents in a line of holes.

I think I have 11 holes in one direction and 6 holes in the other direction.

If you discover one hole that is out of alignment, just take a magic marker and draw a circle around the offending hole.  I’ve fount that it is always feasible to work around that hole as long as it is clearly indicated.

 

[MARK3980]

Dane,
    Thanks for the headsup.  I watched the Woodrave videos carefully and they point that out - orientation of the router is critical.

DynaGlide has generously offered to use his, which is greatly appreciated.  What appeared to be a closed door is now open.

I'm getting an education on router bits while researching this jig.  It appears that I need a "boring" bit for the project.  You can find 20mm boring bits pretty easily, but none with a 1/2" shaft.  So that means I would need to buy a 10mm or 8mm collet for my OF 1400.  Or try an Amana collet reducer, which is pretty cheap.  One guy on another site claimed that a 25/32 boring bit is just about perfect...if you can use your router at a high RPM.

Of course all of this is based on the idea that 20mm accessories are the way to go in the first place.  Since I don't own any accessories at the moment, the book is open to 3/4" holes with their corresponding accoutrements.  Any thoughts on that?  Yeah, I know, it's a can of worms that I'm sure is covered on other threads.  Mark

 

[Packard]

I live in the United States and I chose to use 3/4" holes.  I am able to make specialized setups using 3/4" diameter dowels.  I can also make specialized bench dogs. 

I would note that the hardwood dowels I find are a little tight in the holes--perhaps the MDF has swelled in the sometimes-damp-basement.  I lightly sand the dowel with 120 sandpaper until it achieves the fit I want. 

 

[squall_line]

So that means I would need to buy a 10mm or 8mm collet for my OF 1400. 

Your OF 1400 should have come with an 8mm collet, unless you're in the UK or purchased it used.  The current scope of delivery for the OF 1400 in the US includes all three collet sizes: 1/4", 8mm, and 1/2".

 

[Cheese]

It appears that I need a "boring" bit for the project.  You can find 20mm boring bits pretty easily, but none with a 1/2" shaft.  So that means I would need to buy a 10mm or 8mm collet for my OF 1400. 

Why not just use the Festool 20 mm hinge boring bit, 491072 in the 1400?

I used the Woodpecker MFT template, the 1400 router & the 491072 bit to produce a small top from Baltic birch.

 

[Bob D.]

"I would note that the hardwood dowels I find are a little tight in the holes"

Maybe they're metric but marketed as imperial.

 

[Dane]

I used the festool 20mm bit.  That’s a 8mm shank, I believe.

 

[MARK3980]

Why not just use the Festool 20 mm hinge boring bit, 491072 in the 1400?

Because I'm a cheap old man, Cheese.  Festool bit was $69 and the CMT was $22.  I do buy quality, hence I'm on this site, but I can't imagine using this bit very often.  That's why I opted for the lesser cost.

And you're 100% correct squall_line.  I just opened up my systainer and there IS an 8mm collet included.  Somehow I missed that.
Thanks for the heads up!