So after trying to cut some rails and stiles for my built-in dining room benches and not getting the repeatability I was looking for, I pulled the plug on the parallel guides from Precision Dogs. The added incentive was the 10% off at incrementaltools.com for the t-track plus. But my question is what length(s) of rail should I order?
Precision Dogs Parallel Guides - What Length T-track?
- Thread starter johnesher
- Start date
bkharman
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- Joined
- Jul 1, 2013
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- 2,072
johnesher said:
You would be correct. I actually use the 600's at least 3 times as much. When I need the longer set I have it ready to go. It is a nice combo. I got my rails when they had a BOGO sale. But that was a few years ago.
If you are pressed for cash, get the longer set you may be eyeballing.
Cheers. Bryan.
Max Fracas
Member
I think mine are also 1200. Have been thinking of getting a 600 set, as that would be easier to maneuver in my small shop.
I have 18" and 24" and honestly should have purchased the 36" instead. The longer they are the harder they are to maneuver. The 18" will get ya about 25" of rip (rail is around 7" wide) but the tape measure is only good to 18" so that sorta stinks. The 24" works well and the tape covers you to 24". However, if you get the 36" you can then use it on a shorter rail to crosscut your ripped goods for cabinet assembly which is typically 34.5".
I want to add that I have the 108" rail I tried using with the Rip dog guides and had mixed results. I ripped about 4 sheets of 3/4 birch for a small built in I was doing last week and wasn't exactly thrilled with the results. I spent quiet a bit of time calibrating the stops to make sure the tapes were aligned in hopes of being able to use this as an alternative to running plywood through the table saw. However, some of my rips varied by as much as a 1/16". I'm sure it's user error but I was very deliberate in keeping the stops snugged up to the plywood edge. You can hide this is some cases but when you have grooves and rabbets for your cabinet backs this just doesn't work well and is unacceptable. I ended up ripping all the plywood again on my table saw and will continue to use the table saw for all ripping and the parallel guides for crosscutting.
I want to add that I have the 108" rail I tried using with the Rip dog guides and had mixed results. I ripped about 4 sheets of 3/4 birch for a small built in I was doing last week and wasn't exactly thrilled with the results. I spent quiet a bit of time calibrating the stops to make sure the tapes were aligned in hopes of being able to use this as an alternative to running plywood through the table saw. However, some of my rips varied by as much as a 1/16". I'm sure it's user error but I was very deliberate in keeping the stops snugged up to the plywood edge. You can hide this is some cases but when you have grooves and rabbets for your cabinet backs this just doesn't work well and is unacceptable. I ended up ripping all the plywood again on my table saw and will continue to use the table saw for all ripping and the parallel guides for crosscutting.
I've been off by up to 1/16 before on one end with my home-made parallel guides for my DeWalt. Initial usage was less than 1/64 off. Best I can tell, it is a technique thing. I can't clamp the track since my parallel guides have to be outside of the wood. With the Precision parallel guide sitting on top you could clamp it. If the stops are tight to the wood and the track is clamped I doubt you would have an issue. What I do is pull on the track a little with my off hand (left hand) to keep the stops tight to the wood. That also seems to work. Last few rips were great (again). I'm determined to do finish cuts with the tracksaw, not break down. I am also fortunate to have shop projects right now where minor issues occasionally doesn't matter much.
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