I have just finished removing 2 layers of wallpaper from intact plaster walls of a room. I now have to remove residual glue, paint(used to glue the ends of the wallpaper) and sand the surface to smooth it. I was wondering if using a Rotex 125/150 would make this job alot quicker and easier? I need to get a sander for other chores and think this would be a great excuse to get one now. If this isn't a far fetched idea, what type/grit of sanding discs should I use? Thanks
Preping Plaster walls after Wallpaper Removal
- Thread starter 1chipster
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AlexThePalex
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The Rotex will do just fine. Just done a job on plaster with it. I used Brilliant 120 and 180 grit. I prefer the DS400 or the RTS400 though for plaster. Dust collection with the Rotex on plaster wasn't very good.
E
ericbuggeln
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RO 150 with 120 Rubin and finish with 220 Brilliant. Use Zinsser's Bullseye 1-2-3 primer. The sealer component in the primer will seal in any residual adhesive that you can't see or feel. Have done it more times then I care to admit and never had a call back. Its also an amazing undercoat for the Benjamin Moore topcoat you should be applying. The RO 150 is an awesome sander, but too big for certain jobs, so don't think this will be your only sander, Eric
I've been using a Rotex 150 in a bedroom - the wallpaper came of well with a scraper (or a tug from the bottom) - lots of glue left...
ended up having to drop down to a 40 grit. vicious but effective
tried using a Rotex 150 on a ceiling... I just don't have the muscles for it... but then the DTS400 was great. That's possible my favourite festool - as long as you aren't looking for aggressive removal - it just keeps working and with careful adjustment of speed and extractor just seems to float effortlessly - all day
ended up having to drop down to a 40 grit. vicious but effective
tried using a Rotex 150 on a ceiling... I just don't have the muscles for it... but then the DTS400 was great. That's possible my favourite festool - as long as you aren't looking for aggressive removal - it just keeps working and with careful adjustment of speed and extractor just seems to float effortlessly - all day
Holzhacker
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Having only played with a Rotex since I don't have one, I tend to think the Rotex might be a bit overkill. If the plaster is disbonded at all or has cracks the Rotex seems to me might make conditions worse. Unless of course one is really skilled at using it.
My ETS and RS both work really well for such work. They are gentler machines. You could get both for roughly one Rotex.
My ETS and RS both work really well for such work. They are gentler machines. You could get both for roughly one Rotex.
tjbnwi
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A simple tip, to remove the wallpaper paste (works on the wall paper also) mix fabric softener (I use Downy) at about 25% in warm water, wash the walls. It will not work on the seam glue as well, it does soften it where it can be scraped.
I find this method works better than readily available remover. On vinyl wall coverings you must score of peel the vinyl for the liquid to penetrate.
Tom
I find this method works better than readily available remover. On vinyl wall coverings you must score of peel the vinyl for the liquid to penetrate.
Tom
WarnerConstCo.
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Yup, fabric softener and water.
Mist the wall and use a 4" razor wall scraper.
A rotex in RO mode with 120 brilliant, I like that paper.
Mist the wall and use a 4" razor wall scraper.
A rotex in RO mode with 120 brilliant, I like that paper.
[big grin]WOW GUYS, you are TERRIFIC !!! What a quick response to my question. You have already made this chore so much easier. The fabric softener idea is great. I don't expect to create much dust from sanding but of course I haven't done this before. For those of you who did not have a good experience with dust collection, was it the type of sander, paper and/or the vac that seemed to be the problem? I want to buy the appropriate sander for the job. Thanks
E
ericbuggeln
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I use a Werner Steamer and DIF spray and roll on with a scoring tool. I score all walls, roll DIF from floor to ceiling to not make a mess, steam area you are working on while DIF eats away at the rest. Once you remove paper, it is important to go over the area with the steamer and heat up the wall. Use old cut up beach towels or something with a little "grit" and wet sand the walls. Wax on, wax off. Use Brilliant 220 on RO 150 and you should be able to sand the entire room smooth as a babys butt in less then 15 minutes, ready for primer. Use 220 between paint coats if you want the best finish ever.
I have never used the fabric softener mentioned, but have heard of it before and can hardly wait til my next bathroom remodel where I will be able to try it out. If you use DIF, mix it twice as strong and if you start sneezing it is ready, Eric
I have never used the fabric softener mentioned, but have heard of it before and can hardly wait til my next bathroom remodel where I will be able to try it out. If you use DIF, mix it twice as strong and if you start sneezing it is ready, Eric
Thanks Eric... for the info. I was a little concerned about the type of sander to use. Glad to see you had good results from the RO 150...I don't have one yet...was considering getting the RO 125... a little lighter in weight and easier to handle. What are people's thoughts on this? [smile]
AlexThePalex
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1chipster said:
I think you can't go wrong with either of them. If you have to do large surfaces the 150 will do it slightly faster. If you have to do small surfaces the 125 might be a tad more suitable. But both are usable for the mentioned tasks either way. I have the 150 and think it's easy to control, unlike what some others report. And I think the 125 will still have a lot of power too. The 150 does have the advantage that you can get more different types of abrasives for it, both by Festool and 3rd parties. The professional market is more aimed at 150 mm discs.
WarnerConstCo.
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I think you could get away with using an ETS sander, either a 150 or 125.
I like my Rotex because of the flexibility I get from it. I have the 125, I have used the 150 a lot and ideally I would like to have both but, I
have very happy with my 125.
I like my Rotex because of the flexibility I get from it. I have the 125, I have used the 150 a lot and ideally I would like to have both but, I
have very happy with my 125.
E
ericbuggeln
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I am partial to the RO 150 and ETS 125 combo. Best of both worlds. Having one sander isn't a very good option, 5 or 6 is more like it. Eric
petiegolfer
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Im just about to start this job this morning. I have the Metabo 450 sander and will be running round the room with 120 grit then washing the walls with a watered down white before a couple of coats of the final colour.
I remove paper with a steamer. The paper was vinal the steamer softens the top layer allowing it to come off the paper backer in large sheets. The paper backing then comes off really easily...you just have to keep things moving quick or you can blow off the plaster. As a result you dont have a lot of adhesive left because it is scraped off with the paper.
Good luck hope you like painting more than I do!!
Piers
I remove paper with a steamer. The paper was vinal the steamer softens the top layer allowing it to come off the paper backer in large sheets. The paper backing then comes off really easily...you just have to keep things moving quick or you can blow off the plaster. As a result you dont have a lot of adhesive left because it is scraped off with the paper.
Good luck hope you like painting more than I do!!
Piers
adrianbutler
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Electric sander will do, it can bring the walls smooth and firm again. By the way, if in the future, I suggest that you use eifs fasteners for walls, in this case if you wanted to remove any coating like primer, it will just be as simple as peeling off. This one is available at any of your local home improvement and DIY shop.
Kev
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Last time I removed wall paper I got cranky and I was left with only wall studs [embarassed]
I've also made the mistake in the past of sanding the surface too deep and having to skim the surface that had become "furry".
In fact I should shut up - I'm the last person to listen to on advice relating to plasterboard [sad]
I've also made the mistake in the past of sanding the surface too deep and having to skim the surface that had become "furry".
In fact I should shut up - I'm the last person to listen to on advice relating to plasterboard [sad]
Maximus
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For all the time and effort involved with poor surfaces prep I'm inclined to just paint it with Thistle Bond-It (or similar) and then re-skim. If you aren't familiar with this wonder-stuff it's a thin modified polymer with suspended fine sand. It sticks like glue to any substrate and gives a superb key and zero suction for the plaster. I've used it a lot on renovations, and it's great too for providing a key-coat for anything tricky, prior to plastering, gluing or whatever. You need to remove loose coverings first of course, but you can Bond-It over paint layers, mastic, plastic, concrete, wood, plasterboard, tiles - anything really. Mix well (mechanically) prior to use.
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