Problem with my Guide Rail / Splinter Guard or my TS75?

[croessler]

Every time I use my TS75 I see small fragments of the splinterguard flying off. The saw is at 90° and I trimmed the splinter guard initally as described in the manual. At this point the edge is a little rough and difficult to line up with my layout lines.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Chris,

You should be receiving a call from our service department to help troubleshoot your issue.

Shane

 

[croessler]

Shane,

I appreciate that... I Just realized I did not actually ask the question I had intended to post.    [embarassed]

So, with my original statement in mind; Do you think this is a user issue or system issue? 

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Chris,

Based on my understanding of your description, I would say that it's not normal for the splinterguard to become jagged.  In my experience, and I should note that I still have the older black splinterguards on my rails at home, they have stayed crisp and clean over the years.

Since we were unable to get in touch with you by phone, I would highly recommend that you call and speak with someone here about what you're experiencing so we can help troubleshoot any potential problem and help you resolve the problem.

Thanks,
Shane

 

[Jesus Aleman]

Please post the resolution of the issue when you get there.  I used to have that issue when I was using the black splinterguards.  I thought this was normal and had to do with using the saw toed in with different depths of cut.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Jesus,

Again, I would recommend that you contact the service department for assistance. They are in the best position to troubleshoot any possible issues with your saw. Also, if you can share a photo showing a close up of the splinterguard that may be helpful.

Shane

 

[counterfix]

this effect is do to the cam adjustment as any wear can result in laterial movement you should allways adjust them prior to use.
                                                                                                                                                                                                also
know that this is affected when you do blade changes there will allways be flakes here and there. the more you use this you will
get use to the wear marks there can be meny diffarent things that cause deflection on the blade.i still find it to be the best system
avalible you just need to allow for some laterial movment or the saw is to sticky on the rail i allways push against the rail the same
every time i cut this can put less wear on the splinter gaurd

 

[ScotF]

I had this issue initially with my TS75 and in my situation, the back of the blade needed to be ever so slightly adjusted out.  In my situation the back of the blade was just hitting the strip causing more wear.  There are 4 screws that can adjust the blade laterally and the supplemental manual walks you through the process step-by-step.  I also talked to Festool service and they can walk you through the process too.

Scot

 

[counterfix]

I had this issue initially with my TS75 and in my situation, the back of the blade needed to be ever so slightly adjusted out.  In my situation the back of the blade was just hitting the strip causing more wear.  There are 4 screws that can adjust the blade laterally and the supplemental manual walks you through the process step-by-step.  I also talked to Festool service and they can walk you through the process too.

Scot

you should be carefull adjusting the toe in or out this can start a whole new group of issues first thing you should do  is plunge the saw in a piece of scrap
then stop the blade before lifting this will show you carbide teeth slots at the front or back of the cut this can indicate toe in or toe out

 

[ScotF]

I had this issue initially with my TS75 and in my situation, the back of the blade needed to be ever so slightly adjusted out.  In my situation the back of the blade was just hitting the strip causing more wear.  There are 4 screws that can adjust the blade laterally and the supplemental manual walks you through the process step-by-step.  I also talked to Festool service and they can walk you through the process too.

Scot

you should be carefull adjusting the toe in or out this can start a whole new group of issues first thing you should do  is plunge the saw in a piece of scrap
then stop the blade before lifting this will show you carbide teeth slots at the front or back of the cut this can indicate toe in or toe out

Good point, Counterfix...and I believe the supplemental manual states this as well as using a piece of paper to ensure the right amount of toe-in/toe-out.  As with anything, one should make sure that they understand the procedure and confirm the issue before making any adjustments. 

Scot

 

[The Trainer]

Helo Chris,

Sorry for maybe stating the obvious, but are you using the same blade all the time? Festool have switched the blade kerf thickness from 2,5 mm to 2,2mm in the recent years and if you have changed the blade for the older model it will have a wider kerf and therefore WILL cut about 0,1mm off the Splinterguard. Failing this make sure that your saw is setup properly on the rail. I like to keep rails numbered to the relevant saw I use with it. As I have 1 ATF 55, 1 ATF 65, 1 TS 55 it gets confusing with the different blades. Also as I recall the 56 tooth Laminate blade has a 2,5mm kerf...so this might be the cause of your problem.

 

[croessler]

Yes, I am using the same blade. Actually it's the original blade. I have not yet had a chance to follow up on the suggestions or with support as I have been away for work quite a bit. I will be sure to post my findings in this forum topic.

Also, Thank you for the suggestions everyone and thank you Shane for going the extra mile to help.

Regards,
Chris

 

[ewils91]

Hey Chris,

I have a similar problem with my TS75. I took it to my local Woodcraft (80 miles). I spoke to them over the phone, they thought they could fix it with a new blade or possibly new clutch washers which they had in stock. When I arrived they measured the blade runout and found that it was .011.

They replaced the blade and remeasured it and observed a .013 runout, after replacing both inner and outer clutch wahers the run out was now .015. I showed them my guide rail splinter guard which was cut almost to the aluminum rail and explained to them that was where it was cut during the initial setup.

They suggested that I send it back to Festool for repair but when I contacted them I was told that I was responsible for all the shipping and repair costs because it was now out of warranty. I explained to them that I thought it was normal until I bought a TS55 and saw a HUGE cut quality difference and really didn't know what I was missing... so it has sat in my shop gathering dust until I decide what to do with it. Maybe good for parts.

Good luck

Eddy Wilson