Problems with depth of cut with OF1400--**SOLVED**

[rblaustein]

If I missed it, sorry, but I searched the archives to see if there was a good discussion of this but didn't find one, so I'll ask:

Has anyone had problems with overshooting the depth of cut on the OF1400?  I just used the router to make some dadoes for the first time and all my cuts were about 1mm too deep.  I was using the router on the rails with the guide rail attachment as described in Rick's manual.  I set the depth as described there as well--plunging so the bit rests on the surface I am cutting, dialing in the desired depth, and I also tried just putting something of the depth I wanted to cut between the gauge and the turret, then locking the stop.  With either approach (dialing in a depth, or using something of the correct depth as a guide) the cut came out deeper than desired.  I notice that there is some play in the turret--if you press down on it there is some give, almost a springy feel. Presumably that has to be there to allow the turret to rotate.  I didn't measure it, but it feels like less than 1 mm.  Any thoughts on what's causing this and how to fix this?

--Rob

 

[John Viola]

I see this has been read 25 times so far.  I have no answer but I am interested in what it is because I am considering purchasing one of these soon.

 

[Brice Burrell]

......I notice that there is some play in the turret--if you press down on it there is some give, almost a springy feel. Presumably that has to be there to allow the turret to rotate.  I didn't measure it, but it feels like less than 1 mm.  Any thoughts on what's causing this and how to fix this?

--Rob

The turret has spring-operated ball detents, that most likely accounts for your issue. 

 

[Daviddubya]

A little more information, please.

How are you setting the depth of cut when you are "dialing in the desired depth"?  I use the second method you mentioned, "putting something of the depth I wanted to cut between the gauge and the turret".  I use a brass gauge block and I get the desired depth of cut.

Where do you have the router positioned on the rail?  Is the router off the rail, or partially on the rail?

Is the outrigger foot in play?  Is it adjusted so the router base is parallel to the work surface?

I like running the router so that the base is completely resting on the work surface.  I use an auxillary base to make the router sit flat on the work surface.  Here's a thread that describes the auxillary base:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=34.0

 

[Mr Jones]

This is not a problem I have encountered with the OF1400, and I've been using one for a year, it did take me 6 months to get used to the depth setting but it is extremely accurate, and you can reset the depth to precisely match previous cuts quite easily, once you get used to it. Are you sure you need the power of the OF1400, it is quite a big router and I think the 1010 is probably easier to handle, especially on door edges etc.

 

[Jesse Cloud]

I suspect the outrigger may be the culprit.  I was too lazy to put on my auxiliary foot, ala daviddubya, and ran some dadoes with the outrigger.  The outrigger gave slightly and each dado was a little deeper than the previous one, came to about a mm after twelve feet of dado.  Not the end of the world, but a PITA for sure! 

Never had that problem with the router sitting firmly on the workpiece!

 

[rblaustein]

Just did some more test cuts. The turret is contributing, since if I try to account for it by pushing down on it with something whose thickness matches the depth I want, and then locking the depth stop, it does improve my accuracy somewhat (about .2-.3mm), but I'm still getting cuts that are deep by about .3-.4 mm.  In answer to some questions:

Dave-in method #1 I used the depth gauge and index pointer to dial in a depth as described on p 10 of Rick's manual.  Yes, I'm using the outrigger as described in the manual to keep router elevated and parallel. I have been keeping the router on the rail (as close as I can to the guide rail attachment) rather than on the piece.  The piece I was routing is fairly narrow so the outrigger ended up riding on the MFT.  I didn't look at this while I was making those test cuts, but maybe there is some flex in the outrigger when it's that extended--I'll have to go down and relook.  I like Dave's approach of an auxilliary base to make up the gap between the router base and the piece and will try to fabricate one.  I have some 3/16" masonite which should work.  Dave, did you make a rough cutout for the base, screw it on, and then use a different router and flush trim bit to trim it to size?

 

[Daviddubya]

...Dave, did you make a rough cutout for the base, screw it on, and then use a different router and flush trim bit to trim it to size?

I used the Festool base as a template.  I taped the Festool base to the rough cut auxillary base, and then used a template bit on the router table to trim the auxillary base to size.

I suspect you might be experiencing some "tilt" using the outrigger foot extended the added amount you described.  There could be a tendency for the router to tilt in the direction of the cut, allowing the bit to cut deeper than intended.  Try using a scrap of the same thickness as your work piece for the outrigger to ride on.

 

[rblaustein]

I suspect you might be experiencing some "tilt" using the outrigger foot extended the added amount you described.  There could be a tendency for the router to tilt in the direction of the cut, allowing the bit to cut deeper than intended.  Try using a scrap of the same thickness as your work piece for the outrigger to ride on.

I think you're probably right.  Yes, using a scrap of the same width makes a lot of sense, thanks.  But I like your auxiliary base approach even more and will give it a try.  I was thinking of making one that only sat under the outer portion of the base so that one could use it both on and off the piece.  I'll have to check the screw pattern to see if it's doable.

 

[rblaustein]

I fabricated an auxilliary base out of some 3/16" peg board I had around--I would have preferred something without all those holes, but it was the only thing handy of that thickness.  I modified Davidubya's design somewhat so that the router can be used on and off the rail.  After attaching via those two screws (that are for the LR 32, as Brice pointed in another post), I made some test dadoes.  Their depths were within 0.1 mm or the desired depth.  So thanks for all the input.  Pics are below.  First one is of the base, second one shows it being used with router on the rail, and third one is Dave's method of having the router lie on the piece and not on the rail.
--Rob
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[Dave Ronyak]

If I missed it, sorry, but I searched the archives to see if there was a good discussion of this but didn't find one, so I'll ask:

Has anyone had problems with overshooting the depth of cut on the OF1400? ....  I notice that there is some play in the turret--if you press down on it there is some give, almost a springy feel. Presumably that has to be there to allow the turret to rotate.  I didn't measure it, but it feels like less than 1 mm.  Any thoughts on what's causing this and how to fix this?

--Rob

Yes, the turret is spring loaded.  At first I was a bit concerned about this and thought it might be a defect, but it is the way Festool designed the turret.  The "cure" is simple - make certain you have compressed the spring in the turret when setting the depth.  I usually use setup gauge bars, e.g. those offered by Whiteside.  If I want a 1/4 inch deep dado, first I set the router on the rail, if I am going to use it on the rail, then plunge to zero out the bit and lock the router in this position.  Then I insert, e.g. a 1/4 inch gauge bar under the depth adjustment rod and on topr of a screw in the turret, and make certain that I press down the rod, gauge bar and turret to take up any compression slop in the turret detent mechanism, and lock the depth rod.  Remove the gauge bar and I am ready to plunge and route.

Dave R. 

 

[rblaustein]

Dave,
Thanks for the info--that's exactly how I do it too now.  As with most tools, there is a bit of a learning curve and once you get your skills down, you're good to go.  This place is great for that.  I have to say, I think the outrigger is not so well designed to withstand the forces that one typically might apply.  Dave's aux base idea is far superior--Festool should provide one, either with the router, or with the guide rail attachment.

I was at Woodcraft the other day and was curious to see if their 1400 had the same springiness to the turret and it did.  But interestingly, the OF 1010 had much less play.
--Rob

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Rob,

Glad to be of some help!  When using my 1400 router with a Guide Rail, I set it up so the base of the router is running on top of one of the green Teflon strips, and adjust the outrigger foot to support the outboard side of the router relative to the workpiece.  I have not encountered any stability problems with that arrangement.  The only stability challenge I have encountered thus far has been when carving some damaged areas near the edge of a veneered door to prepare them to receive a veneer patch.  The narrow width of the base of the 1400 and its relatively tall motor case make it more top heavy and less stable than many smaller, fixed base routers.  A wider subbase would solve this, and the next time I encounter this application, I'll probably make a simple offset subbase to attach over the factory subbase.  There are a pair of 6mm screw holes in the 1400 base that are used to mount the router to Festool's hole drilling jig, and these can be used without having to remove anything.  A piece of 3/8" or 1/2" plastic or birch plywood should work quite well.

Dave R.

 

[rblaustein]

There are a pair of 6mm screw holes in the 1400 base that are used to mount the router to Festool's hole drilling jig, and these can be used without having to remove anything.  A piece of 3/8" or 1/2" plastic or birch plywood should work quite well.

Dave R.

Exactly--those are the holes that Dave and I used too (see pic above).  If you do make that base of 3/16" you will not need to use the outrigger anymore.  You might also make an extra one that doesn't cover the whole base as I did, if you still want to ride the router on the rail.
--Rob

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Rob,

While looking again at this thread I marveled at the quality of the photos you posted of your auxiliary base adapter.  How do you do that (camera settings, lighting, etc.)?  I have yet to purchase a digital camera, and want to make a good choice.

Dave R.

 

[rblaustein]

Rob,

While looking again at this thread I marveled at the quality of the photos you posted of your auxiliary base adapter.  How do you do that (camera settings, lighting, etc.)?  I have yet to purchase a digital camera, and want to make a good choice.

Dave R.

Thanks Dave.  Nothing too fancy.  Lately I've been using a Canon S3 IS digital camera.  No extra lights, but my shop is very well lit with two banks of double fluorescents.  I sometimes use the flash, but generally find it looks better without.  Frankly, I often just set the camera to 'auto' and shoot (no tripod, though it would come in handy sometimes).  I use various programs to edit but find Picassa very quick and handy.  It's owned by Google now and it's free.  Dan Clark's photo tutorial is handy and will help teach you how to edit and post.  Choosing a new camera can be intimidating particularly if you haven't used any digital ones.  THere are just so many out there and they run the gamut price and feature wise.  For documenting ww'ing projects and posting here you really don't need anything fancy or expensive.
--Rob

 

[woodpicker]

There is an item called "Support' for OF1400 #438-608. Cost $3.00. It described as "prevent router from tipping when use with guide rail. Acts as outrigger, offsets guide rail height.

Sounds like it is trying to solve the problem here???

 

[Brian 57]

Just looked at a Festool video on the USA site which showcased the new OF2200. When routing using the rail, i.e. where the foot is necessary on the 1400, they appear to fit a base which looks to have the same sort of "step" that the rblau's pegboard gives the standard 1400 base. Looks like it's called "Guide Rail Base" - catchy, huh?
Regards

 

[semenza]

I fabricated an auxilliary base out of some 3/16" peg board I had around--I would have preferred something without all those holes, but it was the only thing handy of that thickness.  I modified Davidubya's design somewhat so that the router can be used on and off the rail.  After attaching via those two screws (that are for the LR 32, as Brice pointed in another post), I made some test dadoes.  Their depths were within 0.1 mm or the desired depth.  So thanks for all the input.  Pics are below.  First one is of the base, second one shows it being used with router on the rail, and third one is Dave's method of having the router lie on the piece and not on the rail.
--Rob

Hi,

  Looks good. I have a bunch of stopped dados coming up this week. I think I need to make one of these. 

      daviddubbya,  What material did you use?

Seth

 

[Charles Wilson]

So, when using the plastic guide rail foot, do you have to add 3/16" to your depth to get an accurate plunge?

Chuck